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Everything posted by billcoe
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RB
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You don't say where it is, Hawii is a bunch of areas with multiple islands: but you might consider renting, not buying a board. All the big towns seem to have places to rent, and you can line it up in advance: Honolulu, Kona, etc etc. Fires are OK on most beaches - especially as you get out in the sticks on places like the Big Island, stay low-key and friendly with folks and you'll recieve the same, or I've been told repeadedly that sometimes the locals get aggro. (never happened to me personally, people are generally great over there) Weed is fairly plentiful as it cultivates well everywhere, but the feds have made it a little more underground to purchase, so don't pack it on your carry on, buy local but don't get caught. Bring your own snorkeling stuff and don't forget the suntan lotion. Bon voyage!
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Anyone want to bake after work today? RB will be in the shade.
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Ivan dude, you have the mental capacity and the werewithall to wake up every morning and make that a true statement...or not. It is a choice YOU can make.
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Yup, agree with Dawg. 2 choices would have sufficed. 1) they will keep going at it. Like always. 2) there will be a pause first. Then 1.
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"Feeling depressed and near suicidal, I choose to head to the mts alone to seek her good tidings".... Better than a pill. It's a lot like crashing an airplane, you swoop so low, only to bring her up at the last min into the beautiful blue sky of the wide open mountains....ahhhh, back to normal.
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Well that sucked. Hope it brings some relief to her family. Makes you wonder if mountain madness was jinksed.
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Yeah, you got it Dylan. 1300 lbs at the anchor, and that was the max they could get (lack of memory but most likly a dymanic, not a static rope was used) So probably not an issue, but if anyone was concerned all ya have to do it borrow a rat tail file from a logger buddy or Alpine fox, hit it to round it off and there ya go.
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No, but Ujahn went up to see the PDX fireworks 4th of July and wound up snowboarding off in the dark at 10pm .... With his dog.
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OMG that is soooo funny! Thanks Dawg!
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Have you gotten it to steam and froth espresso yet?
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Trip Report Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 7/8/2007
billcoe replied to kevbone's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Hot damn, these are real wemmon your trading around on? Sorry to gawk open mouth, been married for 27 years now to the same beautiful woman. I was scanning a pic of her last month from back when she graduated from college, my 17 year old boy says, damn, mom WAS hot when she was young. Not that I'm holding up any better, 2 different people have seen our wedding pic and asked her who the first husband was! -
Trip Report Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 7/8/2007
billcoe replied to kevbone's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
You are sadly only waving a red flag in front of a bull here Kevin. Nice TR but was your camera broken? BTW, what was your car to car time? __________________________________________________________________ Opps, asked and answered! Damn, thats a long route. Didn't Ben just climb the Grade 6 West Face of El Cap in 13 hours with Avitrip? Were you slowing him down:-0 -
Welcome to the dark side of being open and honest! Good morning back at ya
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Feeling depressed and near suicidal, I choose to head to the mts alone to seek her good tidings. Tried to poach an ascent of the center line, the chimney, basically took 2 days both to get to it and try and get the killer loose blocks trundled. Making a long story short, got my rope stuck on the rap, climbed only 30 hard f*en feet all weekend, and that was a horizontal traverse to get a rap anchor off a 4" fir tree in the middle of the wall - glad I survived blah blah - did get 11 hours of sleep and lost 6 lbs. Was able to name the route and hope to go fire it later. ("Womb with a view") I'm feeling almost normal now.
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You mean like when Earl Wiggan and his buddies hiked down to the bottom of the Black Canyon to reconoiter it then split up to check out different areas. Later they look over and see him FREE FU*KING SOLOING Scenic Cruise, not only bags the second ascent, free solo, but f*s up, gets off route, and does a First Ascent variation that goes at 5.10D. No rope, on sight. His buddies looked over and see him way the hell over there....they gape open mouth. Not a free solo? discuss.
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Nice work of it! Sweet TR John!
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I'd climb wid him - I'd lead of course.
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On another thread, Underworld asked this? I've been pushing a lot of rocks, poison oak and dirt off of multiple places last winter spring, and it's an interesting question. What are your thoughts?
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Awwww, you picked that name for a reason didn't ya Dick? Until you show up with some interesting posts, we'll fill in for ya! BTW, you posted some dangers at Neverland recently, yet seem to choose to do nothing about it but show up and get somewhat aggro here. Curious. _____________________________________________________ Underworld, I'm curious what others think of this as well, so I started a new thread here to garner some opinions: Link to what may be an interesting discussion here
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OMG!
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Thanks for the heads up Philly! Sounds like you had some good climbing in. BTW, to add to what JH said: This is signifigantly bigger thing than a person getting bonked on the noggin. All parks deal whith that kind of thing as a routine maner. Usually its some jackass just tossing a beer bottle at another person (see CArver park story uesterday), it can be all kinds of things, for all parks, even non-climbing parks, not just at Smith Rocks State park or Broughtons Bluff State park where climbers are. These ranges deal with stuff most of us don't even want to think about, let alone confront. Its amazing. Anyway- The last 2 winters has seen some large naturally occuring rockfall produced out at Beacon. As they do not currently allow climbers from Feb-July, we were not even there to see this happen or been in a position to help in anyway, but we witnessed the effects months later when we finally were able to show up to climb. (The year or 2 previous the trail on the hiking side, (the non-rockclimbing side) had been wiped out in the same manner. In the old days of year round climbing and less climbers, this would be dealt with as it was found, informally and immediately by the person who stumbled on it, and did not ever seem to build up into something resembling a massive fall. Typically, winter time saw only a few rare hardy souls there, and they took care of this kind of thing when they saw it. Jim O. may be the most obvious example, as he would spend days just cleaning out the ramp pitch on SE Corner, gardening Blackberry bushes here or there, and removing loose rocks all over the place. All winter these guys would do this kind of thing and just hang out because it's such an amazing vibe out there. Even in the rain sometimes. Shit, some times those guys would stay overnight for a couple of days to practice biving, and in the pre-ipod days, this cleaning thing seemed like a good way for them to pass the day: making the place better for all of us. At one time, for instance, you could literally only get 2 pieces in on the SE corner ramp pitch (slong with a single piton, still there, which I accidentally ruined), now if you had a 100 pcs of finger sizes you could stuff every damn one of them in that pitch. It's soooo damn much better now. All over out there. Cause of those dudes. Anyway: The RR tracks not only pass close to Beacon as JH said, but that very RR then passes at high speed with huge loads of all kinds of things literally within a few feet of one of the nations (worlds) largest and most important (environmentally and commercially) rivers with productive massive Salmon runs, massive amounts of power produced, huge tonnage of shipping of all kinds of things like grain exports, millions of people depending or living near or on it. The blast holes which the early RR was going to use to reduce Beacon to rubble are still there in the rock. The guidebook location callout for Dods to start next to the 3rd tunnel should read "3rd blast tunnel", because that is what they are. Erik (head ranger) speculated that the place commonly called "the Arena of Terror" is in fact a classic blast pattern from an old RR blast. Although it is past the time which the RR had Carte Blanch in which they could do what they wanted in the envirnmental area, climbers are in a unique, rare and important role in that we can, should, have in the past and DO help the RR in a huge way by assisting in early loose rock monitoring and dropping them in a controlled time, place and manner when needed. Recently with the closure, we show up in June/July and there seems to be a lot of winter rockfall to deal with which we never saw quite like it in earlier years for the reasons enumerated above. It may even be that it's been the same and we never noticed it when it wasn't closed, or maybe the weather has changed and affected it, but it is glaringly noticeable now. Who knows for certain? I suspect that if the RR knew the whole story of the closure, and climbers role in helping in this manner, they would be lobbying to have the rock opened for climbing year-round and only closed when the birds were preparing to select nests, and open if they were not seen to be actually nesting on the rock. They would see us as a cheap, unpaid early warning system wich might save them Billions of dollars through our unpaid preventative mainenance. They do not even have a liability issue if one of us got hurt, we do this for fun on our free time anyway! Anyway, I just wanted to add this to the discussion, as I see us as the good guys here, and it's not grey at all to me, but starkly, clearly and glaringly black and white. The freeze thaw cycle is a huge force of nature and although it can't be stopped, we can help mitigate the effects. Lastly, that whole bolting issue is such a dead horse which has been played out maybe a 100 times on this site alone. Do a search, put your question on that thread underworld.
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Finally, something we can agree on. Anyone else wonder how I beat Dru with this comment? Maybe he's sick or laying hurt real bad in a ditch somewhere.....?
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They always cut them long. Rope shrink as they get wet with use and age. _______________________________________________________- When Jim started, 140' (before metric! ) was the ropep of choice. Bridwell started using 150'ers in Yosemite and you had to switch to a longer cord to do any of his routes, so that happened fast. Try something like Snake Dike with a short rope to feel that effect. Don't know when the metric thing happened. Anyone know? Maybe the 150' ropes were really 50 meter's and no one knew it? BTW, back then Jim still had teeth.
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If you can touch a 10 ton rock and with slight pressure with your thumb and have it peel off the cliff, then it will be coming down sooner or later. Major cleaning effort? Talkin 2 loose blocks here. Interestingly, the block Kevbone wanted to know was knocked off, was one of the 2, and the more stable of them in fact. It should be indicative of how blatantly loose these were that someone walks up after the fact and asks if a specific block was one of the ones removed. If anybody wants that kind of thing just left, so that it can kill some unsuspecting person(S)who "accidentally" or "naturally" unknowingly pulls it off, then thats a pretty fucked up thing don't you think. These f*en things will come down on their own, when they want too, if left alone. I'll let you figure out how that is different as it seems clear to me it's 2 major different issues - just another thought?? ____________________________________________________________ Ivan, your Alzheimers acting up again? You don't look to be older than 55 dude, whatya gonna do when ya get real old?