billcoe

(no bullshit, 100% honest. UNLIKE SOMEONE PRETENDING TO BE FEMALE ONLINE for instance) Personality defect test: I think they have my number. " Hand-Raiser You are 71% Rational, 85% Extroverted, 42% Brutal, and 42% Arrogant. You are the Hand-Raiser, that annoying kid in class who always had an answer for everything. No doubt, as a child you probably sat in the front of the class, anxiously waving your hand back and forth in the air while your teacher desperately tried to avoid calling on you because you were the ONLY fucking kid that answered her questions. Clearly, the key traits of your personality are your rationality and your extroversion. You are like a little talkative calculator, in other words. You also tend to be rather gentle and less arrogant than most people. Your presence is a bane to everyone's existence, because you are too nice for your own good and you absolutely will not shut up. So what is your defect, then? Well, you're boring, and when you're not boring, you are just plain annoying with your ultra-logical responses and constant need to talk to others. So keep waving that hand in the air, son. I'm still not calling on you. You are too logical, you talk too much, and your humility and gentleness only makes me hate you more, because they make me feel like I almost SHOULDN'T hate you. But I do. Big time. And by the way, the more you wave your hand in class--your extended hand becoming nothing more than a blur as you insanely wave it, thinking we can't see it--the more smug satisfaction the teacher takes in watching the look of excrutiating pain cross your face as you agonize over not being called on, and the longer we'll wait to call on you, just because we absolutely love torturing you so. To put it less negatively: 1. You are more RATIONAL than intuitive. 2. You are more EXTROVERTED than introverted. 3. You are more GENTLE than brutal. 4. You are more HUMBLE than arrogant. Compatibility: Your exact opposite is the Brute. Other personalities you would probably get along with are the Braggart, the Haughty Intellectual, and the Robot. "

Impossible choices test: Balanced Human You are generally of the belief that laws must be followed and the lives of others are as important as your own. You are a good person, with reasonable expectations of others.

date changed on header. tonight

Yes. A long as the rain holds off. BTW, I will not EVER EVER again say Blackberry is not 5.10 after I belayed a 5.12 climber up it and I not only thought I saw a little bit of Elvis Legs when he sequensed backwards, but he thought it was harder than Birds. Hope you are feeling better. Look for Ujhans black toyota truck and thats where we'll be.

Can someone share this study with Pope and Dwayner, it appears that true environmental damage has been determined to not be caused by bolts but by them eating meat. (and the rest of us as well). link "Eating beef ' is less green than driving' Last Updated: 2:59am BST 19/07/2007 Producing 2.2lb of beef generates as much greenhouse gas as driving a car non-stop for three hours, it was claimed yesterday. Japanese scientists used a range of data to calculate the environmental impact of a single purchase of beef. Taking into account all the processes involved, they said, four average sized steaks generated greenhouse gases with a warming potential equivalent to 80.25lb of carbon dioxide. advertisement This also consumed 169 megajoules of energy. That means that 2.2lb of beef is responsible for greenhouse gas emissions which have the same effect as the carbon dioxide released by an ordinary car travelling at 50 miles per hour for 155 miles, a journey lasting three hours. The amount of energy consumed would light a 100-watt bulb for 20 days. Most of the greenhouse gas emissions are in the form of methane released from the animals' digestive systems, New Scientist magazine reported. But more than two thirds of the energy used goes towards producing and transporting cattle feed, said the study, which was led by Akifumi Ogino from the National Institute of Livestock and Grassland Science in Tsukuba, Japan. Su Taylor, the press officer for the Vegetarian Society, told New Scientist: "Everybody is trying to come up with different ways to reduce carbon footprints, but one of the easiest things you can do is to stop eating meat."

Link "There is no quick fix" to the energy challenge, Raymond said at a press conference Wednesday. "To assume that we have the option of not pursuing one of the sources of energy is a fake choice." There were other surprises. The petroleum council said that the U.S. government should take steps to reduce oil consumption. In fact, the report's first recommendation is a call for the U.S. government to moderate energy demand by increasing vehicle fuel economy standards, the main sources of growth in oil demand around the world, and improve energy efficiency at buildings and homes." I think they need to talk slower so that the Homer on the other end of the policy can understand this. Duhh.

True dat, serious food for thought.

OMG! some more LMAO. __________________________________________________________ 2 most memorable lines I've gotten: (young lady in a bar) "Say, you're comin' home with me tonight." I mumbled something about "being busy" and shook my head...but she got close then put he hands all over down there and said "No you're not, you're comin' home with me tonight." I don't know if she was a fortune teller, but she could predict the future cause it came to pass, as did I. 2nd one was from a dude, maybe not even pickup line persee, but memorable. I'm hitchhiking from the East Coast, somewhere maybe in South Dakota, this real nice dude picks me up and after lots of regular, interesting, visiting kind of talk asks me: "So Bill, are you a man's man, or a ladies man"? It took a moment or 2 to figure out exactly what he was sayin, but I laughed and explained about my hot girlfriend I was in fact hitching back home to see... I gotta say I like both of those much better than "Excuse me, does this rag smell like chloroform to you?" Bill

It just came in today and have not even drilled a single hole yet. Mayhaps Pope, Dwayner and I should go see? Sorry, bad attempt at humor. I might not ever know how many it can do. I don't do bolted lines generally. I have a single blank pitch eyeballed that will take maybe 6 plus 2 for an anchor, and elsewere there are a couple more here or there needed. Probably not enough to come close to maxing the drill out. Given the math and physics of the thing, and I suspect that Hitachi has a slight technology edge due to battery style and cause they're just good at building stuff like this maybe slightly more than half what a 36V Hilti would do. (36v divided by 18v = 2, plus a tick or 3 for Hitachi technology). So if a Hilti will do 40 holes, this would do 24 or 27 I might guess if I had too. But I might never know for sure, I don't drill that many holes, and am generally slow, thoughtful and methodical when I have to do it. PS, carrying an extra battery is cheaper and lighter as well, this set up came with an extra batter and was way less than 1/2 the price of the Hilti brand new. Make sure you price out a battery before buying - cause thats the pain we all will feel that got me to buy a new tool.

I thought High made some great points, but I didn't (and don't) think this is the thread to head down that road on as it will invariably lead to mud being tossed. Pope, small word of advice, if you are trying to stop the bickering and petty attacks, which on the surface you appear to be trying to do, do not end your post with an attack, especially a petty bickering tone of an attack, or you will inspire a like response. (Re: your Ostrich and shine comments above) Don, I think I can speak for all of us, it's a thing of awe: inspiring and wondorous. Thank you again, for sharing something personal, important, and interesting. Regards: Bill

It never made Rush puke. Wow, I had a flash you said Rich Candelaria. Rich, the late Ken Cronk and I added a Z and then rapped down and rearranged the 2' high letters on the admin building at Eastern OREGON State College to say "Eastern OZONE State College". But hey yah I knew Mike, I ran the PSU Outdoor program for 2 years, and he and I did some trips then. A finer fella couldn't be found. We didn't climb together much as our interests are a bit divergent - either that or I'm a dick....hmmm. He had a bum knee then and always wore a brace, so it's got to be pretty bad by now I'd imagine. Mike and Dave English, one of my semi-regular climbing partners, use to do a lot of things together. If you see Mike tell him "Hi" for me will ya? BTW, I still have Dave Englishs pillow downstairs which I borrowed off his sofa on the way to Yosemite this spring....sigh, one more piece of unfinished business. I still see Dave after all these years, and another PSU buddy of that era of 23-25 years or so ago, went to Yos as well, well - organized the sites and the trip is more like it:-), Andrew Trzynka.

Well, of course you are welcome to stick around here while you are recovered, this is where all the local non-climbers who can still spray are. I mean, I'm here. You can talk about it to your hearts content even if you can't go do it. We ever meet?

If you feel bad for the fella we can send him a CC.com t-shirt.

Real sad about Reardon. My hawaii story has me being slammed then sucked out and as the sucking occured, dropped straight down 10 feet onto my head while simutaniously being drug out to sea. Very different experience. Plummelled is exactly how it felt, as the start of it was the wave slamming me face first into the cliff, then pushing my body up and across the sharp rocks to the first 6 foot drop while hanging onto my prized dive knife and trying to to not slit my throat or veins as this was occuring. The Opeehi (Limpets) I was prying off for dinner were in a dew rag as high as I could reach, and I was approx 4-5 feet above the highest of the waves till that point in time. ie the highest breker was not even getting close to me. The wave that flushed me took the opeehi and my white ass right out of there. So it was maybe 13 feet higher than anything before. After finally surfacing and getting my bearings, getting back onto the cliff while timing the breaks was an interesting mental sport, made more interesting (while treading water, bruised, battered and shocked) in I knew that my very life, literally depended on my timing, and that I might only have one, just one, chance....I had to observe where the waves were slamming the least, and at that point of elevation where were the 3-4 best holds at that height to get my tired butt out of there. The thoughts included the fact that I was in an area at least 2 miles away from the nearest human being as I had sought seclusion, as is my normal way, which was also reflected on as I tread water thinking about my timing and the spot I had to try for..... Got lucky, timed it right, got the spot. With the grip that comes of the desparete, I grabbed the Pahoi hoi and pulled my life up and out with me. When I got finally dryed off, hiked back, drove home: wife says, "what happened to you?" "Got rolled on a rock". It was close. I've been to Hawaii, maybe 10 times: usually for a week or 2 at a pop, and I've swum in the ocean all my life, since I was a kid in grade school, and certainly ever day I've been in Hawaii, but in the Pac NW too. Never experienced anything quite like this. Not even being dumped out of a raft.

From Rock and Ice, breakiing news: (BTW, I in no way expect Raindawg and Infinite Bliss to be drug into this conversation..................................................NOT......) Link "chopping the chopper Online News Article By: Jeff Squire, Western Mass Climbers Coalition On July 16, 2007, Ken Nichols, a veteran rock climber and infamous bolt chopper from Connecticut, pled guilty to charges of violating a No Trespass Order and received a Continuation Without a Finding on willful destruction of property under $250 in Orange District Court, Orange, Massachusetts. The plea was the result of charges filed against Mr. Nichols for chopping bolts at Farley Ledge on April 27, 2007; an incident that had an eyewitness account. The charges and subsequent plea agreement were the result of a collaborative effort by the Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition, landowners and the Town of Erving police department. Originally, six Trespass Notices had been delivered to Mr. Nichols in June of 2005 prohibiting him from entering both Farley Ledge and Mormon Hollow properties, two popular crags in western Massachusetts managed in part by the WMCC. The initial charges against Mr. Nichols for the chopping incident at Farley Ledge included the trespass violation and a felony charge for destruction of personnel property valued at over $250. Mr. Nichols plea agreement was the result of negotiations by members of the WMCC and Mr. Nichols attorney as well as the Northwestern DA Office. Conditions of his plea agreement included two years probation, a $250 fine, prohibition of him entering five western Massachusetts crags and the prohibition of him chopping or damaging any bolts or hangers on any climbing route. This decision marks the end of a 3-year concerted effort by the WMCC to protect area crags from being repeatedly damaged. In addition, it demonstrates the effectiveness of a collaborative working group aiming to protect valuable climbing resources and makes a significant lawful statement about the actions and conduct of Mr. Nichols over the past 15-20 years."

i could use a clue, care to share? Careful there, you get to close to the monitor and ya might wind up lookin like a glazed donut.

I bought one, now I have 2 of these fucked ropes! Got any projects ya want to dawg?

Not a place to dawdle in the summer. Killer huge ice blocks sweeps that face on a not too infrequent basis. Glad it went well for you. In July. whew. -Bill

Shit Don, that is an amazing amount of work. Can't speak for others but I didn't start climbing til '72. BTW, I most likely clipped your bolts. Thank you! To answer the question: what Matt said: plus: the Lithium Ion batteries were MADE for climbers. Accept no substitutes. My new drill is a Hitachi DV18DL. This Hammer Drill features an 18 volt Lithium Ion battery that boasts 3x the running time of traditional Ni-Cad drills and weighs half as much. This drill also features a class leading 570 in/lbs of torque to power through the toughest jobs. A two step speed switch is located on the side of the handle and this provides for 4 possible RPM settings when combined with the2 speed gear box. Other features include external carbide brush access and a 5 position belt hook with an integrated LED job light. I hopefully don't ever need the LED light. I have drilled holes with the Hilti TE-6, and it's almost unbeliveable how much power it has, smooth and fast. But I don't want to be running around carrying all that weight, and have some backcountry projects in mind. I traded up from a 14V Milwaukie which could do about 12 - 3/8" holes when the battery was brand new, and not a single 1/2" dia hole. It worked fine, just carried an extra battery. so this 18V is a major upgrade for me, and plenty enough power. PS, check the price of replacement batteries when you buy a drill. Whew. _________________________________________________ This thing is 4.9 lbs, you can look up the Hilti or Bosch, but I suspect you are easily double that weight. If you were to examine the word irony, it would contain the fact that this thread and the Ken Nichols fined for bolt chopping are the top 2 threads right now, and are co-existing happily next to each other.

I got out hemp, I am so fri*ckan sore right now that I cannot totally evalate is it really was worth it. (it was, but I'm worked for sure). I almost didn't head, but noted that the rain had stopped as I was leaving work. I was pretty much just cleaning (the routes in the earlier post, and the ones on both sides) , but was traversing left, right and up and do got some actual climbing in: note that it was interesting in that it was near perfect cleaning conditions. 1) The moss was damp enough to stick together so you could grab and rip it off like a carpet mat. 2) The dirt inside of the cracks was damp enough to scrape rightout without being too dry to spread all over the frikan place when you scraped it out and totally dust your feet. 3) the rock was @ 90 percent dry, so I was staying dry, and it was obvious where there was a spot of dirt as it showed up dark, so you could hit it with a scraper, then brush it right off with out breathing dust. 4) The rain kept everyone away, only one other soul showed up so I was pretty much tossing rocks with fairly wild abandon, and not totally sweating every lil rock potentially hitting a wandering lost soul. The only fella to show up yelled up that he wanted bolting and "route setting" lessons. ? Later, after my addled brain had sorted out our discussion, I realized I should have just rappeled on down and engaged the fella. In my mind, "route setting" isn't a term. Those routes have been there since they blew the hell out of the cliff, someone just needed to show up and toss to loose shit off. I did point out that these routes were done, finihed, and I was just cleaning it off so folks like him would have a better experince, but he didn't seem to care...wandered off after I gave him some directions. Route setting my ass, grab a shovel and get yer ass to work! It was real good.

Am I alone in appreciating intellegent folks who clearly recognise genius ?

yup, what Hemp said. BTW, not to be a prick or nothin', but I have "shortfatoldguy" pretty much patented. Awww, in the spirt of brotherhood, I'll share it with ya. Edited to add a smiley face! Hey sfog, are you from Lagrande as earlier reports suggested? My big bro lives there: Kent Coe?

I got out of the Army that year!

link 10.2 Dry 60m $97.96 10.2 Dry 70m $97.96 10.2 Non-Dry 60m $83.97 10.2 Non-Dry 70m $83.97 The 70M are sold out. a few 60M left