billcoe

The jean-pierre ouellet taping instructions which Jens references above can be found here. http://megapeewee.blogspot.com/2010/11/tape-gloves.html Love that Steph Davis quote from the link up thread too.

LOL - The mere though makes me Catatonic. opps, shhh, terrorist cat is not "amuzed".

The wire brushes will also have the benefit of making the problems harder. They will wear off the little rugosites and irregularities. Use of poly or natural bristles will preserve the roughness. Consideration for us V1 climbers:-) LOL

LOL, that's awesome. Once the Russians start in doing this to dogs, we'll see a real arms race.

Clearly there are 2 sides to every story. Rob would wish for larger and more effective missiles for the Palestinians. I would merely wish for peace, which is something which takes 2 to accomplish.

And the big news YESTERDAY (June 6th, 2012), LA country commissioners decided to finally rescind their forced relocation of Japanese-American resolution that dates to 1942. http://www.610wiod.com/cc-common/news/sections/newsarticle.html?feed=104668&article=10181023 To repeat: Whew, glad we are much more civilized and politically correct now. Although it says this as well: Well, no, technically Mr Watanabe, the President can now just kill you and yours, and no one will seemingly give a shit. But at least no one will have to worry about you folks being locked up. Hope, change, progress and your tax dollars at work.

Jordon had occupied the city, then attacked Israel on the 2nd day of the 6 day war. Now they are thankfully at peace. Out with the old, in with the new. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jordanian_occupation_of_the_West_Bank_and_East_Jerusalem

I use to see all kind of outrage over El Presidente Bush here as it related to everything, but especially interrogation of prisoners. Yet as this article explains, President Obama has gone right past that questionable behavior that pissed ya all off to summary execution with plenty of innocent blood splatter as well and all we see here is silence. It's interesting. http://www.washingtonpost.com/opinions/barack-obama-drone-warrior/2012/05/31/gJQAr6zQ5U_story.html?hpid=z2

The use of the Cramers as Sobo says, or a light coat of Benzoin, will help keep the tape from ripping your skin off when you pull the tape off and is highly recommended. Furthermore, you will start the day with some fingertip protectant. Even just a week of laps in Joshua Tree will give you bloody fingertips if you have been doing little over the winter. As far as tape brands, Johnson and Johnson is great stuff, but I actually think that regardless of brand, new (not old) is as important. If you buy too much and break if out a couple years later, (insert sad face here). As far as shaving your hands, use like a Nair cream to avoid the razor, and if you buy it in something which looks like a toothpaste tube, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUT IT IN YOUR SHAVING KIT WITH THE TOOTHPASTE AND TOILETRIES OR YOUR TEETH WILL TASTE LIKE SHIT WHEN YOU BRUSH WITH IT. I still have a bad 25 year old memory of doing this exact thing in JT....22-23 hour drive straight through, wanted to brush my teeth, wasn't paying close attention: whammm. LOL! Hope someone learns form that:-0

pfft, cost?....they could keep the dirigibles floating indefinitely with just 1/2 of the hot air we give off in spray.....

How many 2000 foot unclimbed cliffs did Kukuczka or Steck stand at the base of, then just climb sans rope for a free-solo first ascent of the highest grade done with a rope at the time?

Nice links Rudy, thanks. The fall is a little past the 17:30 mark. Looks like the lad had enough time to scream, crap his pants, change his underwear and then scream again before he stopped had he so chosen.

And one will rule them all LOL ..and now: onto the important things:

You don't boil a frog all of a sudden either. You take baby steps. The Nazis in Germany were democratically elected and overwhelmingly popular at one time as they offered up these kinds of solutions too Stephen. I'd rather just see the government follow the law of the land and not make it up due to expediency when it's convenient for them. The road to hell, as they say......is paved with good intentions. Rob, rob, come back brother.....

One more thing, for anyone who doesn't feel like I do. I'd suggest you read the book "Veil: The Secret Wars of the CIA, 1981-1987". Woodward was one of the investigative reporters who broke the watergate story. http://www.amazon.com/Veil-The-Secret-Wars-1981-1987/dp/0743274032/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338581866&sr=8-1 William Casey as CIA director under Reagan is the book's subject. He may have had the best intentions and that group has many honorable folks working for us doing dirty and necessary jobs, but the politicization of such a powerful organization is scary as hell to me. The difference between them being the CIA that is working for the common good of our country and being a new improved gestapo, is very slim and a short distance for them to travel should they choose. Take care all!

I've ranted on this subject extensively before Jon. LOL. I don't support any President or government bureaucrat, no matter if it's George Bush or Barack Obama, being able to legally murder any innocent American citizen ...just ....because...they want too. That is EXACTLY what occurred in the Anwar al-Awlaki case. They tried it in the newspapers. The man said he didn't even say a lot of the things he was accused of (via the media as well). It's one thing when someone is an armed combatant and clearly self-defense and or preservation of others lives is the rational for killing them. That's war -what can anyone say about that. In this instance, douchbag wasn't and didn't even have a weapon other than a big mouth. Even if one took the tack that Al-aladouchebag was doing more than just "thought crime", it certainly is the case that the 16 year old American kid riding in the car who was executed at the same time as "collateral damage" was only guilty of proximity and relation to a douchbag. Opps. And for that the boy gets murdered? Not only was there no court case initiated, but the Feds specifically got the one Al-aladouches father filed in South Carolina tossed out of the courts. No due process for youuuuu they said, have your kid look us up! Dad says that there is a Fatwa, a public death sentence issued by Obama and the kid wants the court to rule cause he's not sticking his head out of the spider hole and getting it blown off in the process. I don't oppose the death penalty, but it should be the last resort, not the first choice and irrevocably issued like a "Fatwa" by a single person, even if it was the Messiah or Khomeini or Obama the peace loving noble laureate issuing it: and given only after due process as we have had for well over 200 years traditional. Had they captured the man and his son, had a speedy execution via bullet in the head after on a secret tribunal met, it would have been more extensive due process and consideration to the victims than they received. I think we should ask ourselves that had our son or daughter been murdered when riding in the car as it was blown up, would anyone of us feel differently? Now we find out that this is a new, extra-constitutional right the president is claiming. It is a clear violation of our constitutional right of due process. It should never ever happen, yet it just did and looks like it will continue. Looks exactly like the South American death squads start up. Who can support such a thing?[/rant]....for now:-) That's my thoughts. Why bother having a constitution if we don't need to follow it. Today maybe Mother Teresa is running the country, next election or the election after Hitlers angry son gets elected. Who would want that?

https://wwws.whitehouse.gov/petitions#!/petition/create-do-not-kill-list/HwqFwRtG

Nothing worse... LOL!

Off nailed it. Apples and oranges. A short fall out here could and most likely would easily kneecap you. In fact, half way into doing routes here one of the older/bolder (back in the day) wiser "trad" before the term was made climbers clued me in that bolts out here should be closer than we were placing them or we would be screwing over folks that followed us. As it was Ben Priestley's place, and Ben had already suggested that we not do ground up tied off horror show climbs that would screw over future climbers, I listened. Ben wasn't a sport climber, he'd done both El Cap and Half Dome climbs in a day in his previous valley trip. He's wise and a good guy, and I listen to people like those 2. So if you look at dates things got done and want something challenging, much more challenging in my opinion than being off route 85' out from your last bolt in the middle of a 1000' climb that has both cell coverage and YOSAR 30 min away, then start there. If anyone wants more bolts just look at the dates and climb a later one:-). There's some of both and plenty of adventure left everywhere up there. It sort of follows a left to right thing too. Right has lots of bolts, less less....generally. As far as "adventure" goes, many find the routes as they are both fun and adventurous, but there is lots of wild stuff up here still untouched. Some of it you can see, some not. Couple of old guys are finding and climbing hidden pinnacles back in the woods at various spots. Pinnacles that have but a single route, most still as yet not seconded. Some of which are gear routes. If you know Bruce Campbell ask him. A bunch of routes need 2nd and 3rd pitches too. They just go up a bit and stop. Anyone have at it if they want it. The Steeple could have 15 routes and it has but a single one. Unless Scott got another done. I think generally a great location for when it warms up down here. Hot July and August times. I saw that it was 32 degrees up there the other evening. Lot of bolts though. Big honking ones for Ivan, Ben and any other big guys to fall on all day too:-) And every rap on every route is a single 60M rope rap. Don't need 2 ropes. Plaidman leading the FA and well bolted "Better Than Sex". Ciao all! Thanks for the report Scott! Any photos? Put em up bra!!!!

That's me above there...the black spot. Couple weeks ago in Yos on North Dome. Most runout I've been in a while. Got off route. Ujahn says I was 85 feet out from the last bolt and off route. I think both sediments were accurate and it's a function of age where you can't see bolts and anything with the eyes. Maybe it was a tad more than 85 feet. Ujahn backed it off and got back on route. I was going the way I would have led it, but the FA folks didn't go that way or think like me. It sounds long but didn't seem too unreasonable, however, a fall would have been long and cheesgrater ugly ugly ugly. My thought was "How come I didn't wear my helmet again?" The next pitch had 3 bolts in the full pitch. I thought of Kevbone and laughed, but it wasn't unreasonable as it's so smooth up there. Good times! Fun climbing.

We don't need no steenkin bolts. No elevator rides for you "cyber-bullies". Lake Lucerne, Schweitz China

Wrong. Raindawg's getting grief for being Raindawg. His profession seems to just be something he's sensitive about, so people just push that button. I don't know the guy, personally, but he sure seems uptight. Archaeology is cool, though, I'm pretty sure nobody is actually giving him grief just because of that. Can't we just post climbing pictures with bolts in them and him? Bolts:-)

Well shit Paul, if that's all it take to make ya happy here's another one. You can actually see the bolts here. Someone Dwayner/Raindawg. Didn't Mike/Serenity have some Asscrackistan cliff climbing photos?

Here's a picture of some sweet Yosemite granite to make you feel lonely happy:-) Crest Jewel on North Dome about a week or so ago. Maybe if you click on it the pic will enlarge. At least my ass looks small with the distance. Raindawg alert, bolted route: "find the bolts in the photo" LOL Looking forward to your pictures Sobo. UPDATES ON!

I see Raindawg getting grief for his profession. However, I see his job as large net benefit to society, a puzzle being put together one piece here and one piece there. Which of us would not benefit from learning more about this civilization? Was climate change or water issues the cause of it's disappearance? Clues to the future are often found in the past. It's up to us to pay attention to them and learn from it. Dig it? Yup. http://news.yahoo.com/huge-ancient-civilization-collapse-explained-123449804.html http://stansjournal.com/index.php?page=news&type=view&id=history-mystery%2Fthe-lost-indus-valley&filter=8%2C9%2C10%2C11%2C12&blog=0 http://science.nationalgeographic.com/science/archaeology/mohenjo-daro/ ...or we could talk about bolts too....