snoboy

Can you preplan all your placements and rent a drill for a day? Hand drilling will suck, and will not make as good a placement if you are using expansion bolts.

As someone said above, in the rescue world the move is towards no backup w/ F8 knots, at least among the more rational teams. That assumes a well tied dressed knot and a tail of 10 x rope diameter (with 10mm rope, that is enough to stick out of your fist if you grab it). Take a fully tied F8 sometime, and untuck the tail once... you will get a directional F8, which is still considered a viable knot, so in a way you could say that it is already backed up!

I'm not sure if that residue from crapped out alkaline batteries is acidic or not. Perhaps research that. Of course too alkaline can be just as bad! Another arguement for MiMH rechargeables - they tend not to leak like alkalines, and the good ones like Eneloops last longer.

Ctrl-F11

All other considerations aside, I can't recommend the APEX. I had one. The first thing that happened was that the clip on the battery box broke, while it as in the top pocket of my pack... then the pivot on the front of the light broke, again, while being carried. There have been lots of reports from cavers that they are not very water resistant, and the battery life is not that great. If you want a decent light for a good price, check out Fenix. Not a big name climbers brand, but they work, and they are good value. I don't have any experience with the latest crop of BD or Petzl lights. Current rechargeable battery technology is pretty good, and with a high performance LED light you will get more out of a good NiMH than out of an alkaline battery. It's a question of current draw, not voltage... I recommend the Sanyo Eneloop brand as the best out there. Otherwise look for "precharged", as a keyword. Don't buy the highest capacity NiMH that you see, they will suck in real world performance. Check out the forums at candlepowerforums.com for more details on batteries and LED performance than you will ever want to know.

That ^^ book was a huge disappointment IMO. In a similar vein, (although even further OT) the book about the Appollo moonshots Failure is not an Option by Gene Kranz was fascinating.

Cool story from the blog of the guy who revolutionised carabiners... I never realized just how much gear Andrew McLean has had a hand in designing.

I'll f*&^ing ban you if you do that. I might not say much, but it's awesome to read this thread.

Enough SPRAY paint already - OK?

Oven cleaner and elbow grease.

IME I found that once I got one with a map display, that I used it a lot more, and it became more useful. If you just want it as a backup to your current nav methods, then go cheap and light. I am unsure what the current top pick is, but I am happy with my Garmin 60 CSX

This is a good article that answers some of the questions I had...

I should be there, +1 barring any last minute schedule conflicts.

Check out IKEA, no really. I think it's called the DIODER. Also, I have never used them, but there is a site called dealextreme, apparently can be slow, but it's cheap. Candlepowerforums has a lighting sub forum that might be helpful also.

Just buy a cheap pruning saw. You'll be able to cut branches for shelter/fire/splint also. Make sure blade is long enough.

Sounds like the ID tape that runs down the middle of the rope. In Crillz's case coming out the end, not a big deal. Weird to hear of it herniating through the sheath though.

Official lawyered up answer is "No." Actual answer is a little more complicated, but comes down to some boots will fit in some bindings and give an approximation of a reliable release characteristics.

Manufacturing variation would be my guess - these things aren't made by rocket surgeons!

another 503 as few minutes ago.

Nick - from your self description I would say you are the perfect candidate for Dynafits. I would suggest the ST or the Radical ST. The sportiva is more race oriented and $$$. The Plum is also $$$ and has a few issues to work out. IMO there is no reason to use a binding other than a tech binding for touringg unless you need to be compatible with downhill boot soles, or you are skiing primarily at the resort.

In fact the less you use it, the more you should go for a top flight model in some ways...

http://beaconreviews.com/transceivers/ http://www.wildsnow.com/category/avalanche-beacon-review/ IMO any of the offerings from the main players are good tools these days. I wouldn't personally buy anything that was not digital and three antennas.

jon is coming from the Fraser Valley if I am not mistaken though? Wouldn't that add a lot of distance/time? My best tip is don't get your windshield repaired before the trip! Kamloops to Revelstoke not too bad, but my least favourite part of the drive from a scenery perspective. 3 Valley Gap can get gnarly/closed.

Useful link about the permit system.

Good to see you back.