snoboy

You're implying your sister is a real man?

Rarely does... the key word being 'nominal.' Alaklines quickly drop to <1.2V in operation (especially higher current devices like LED headlamps) while NiMH are better at holding the voltage, hence they are better performers overall. A few devices are voltage sensitive and will balk at the NiMH. Some devices (my GPS, and my FRS come to mind) have menu settings to tell them what sort of battery you are loading.

If you go with TD, try gift certificate code GCNE561 for 5% discount... first to use it gets it I guess. I have another for myself...

There is a new generation of NiMH rechargables that is very good. The key words are 'Low Self Discharge.' Often they will be marked as 'Hybrid' or 'PreCharged'. The king of the LSD heap are Eneloops by Sanyo. They are also rebranded as Duracell and Sony amongst others. Look for 'Made in Japan' and white end caps around the positive button for the rebranded ones... NiMH is actually better at driving most of the new generation LED lights due to their ability to deliver more current than alkaline technology. Don't be sucked into 'High Capacity' types, usually they will signifigantly self discharge in under a week, not what you want in a headlamp! Go search over a the Candlepower Forums for endless battery discussion... you may also find yourself wanting a nice charger to pair up with your new cells. Thomas Distributing is a good source for batteries and chargers.

Whatever you end up taking, read the other discussion in the Newbies forum from a month or so ago about where to put biners vs. pulleys. Short version: Put your most effecient pullies closest to the hauling team, put your biners closer to the load.

Yes, but it's ^^^ efficiency will suck compared to a real pulley with bearings. Cost wise it's good for sure. Don't forget to add the weight of an appropriate biner to that. I guess ultimately it comes down to each person's priorities of quality, strength, cost, weight, etc...

Yup, a few... If your Pulley Tread Diameter (PTD - actual surface rope runs on) is close to 4x the rope diameter, then you will preserve about 90% of the strength of the rope. Don't forget most people are using 7-9mm ropes for glacier travel. As PTD -> 0 you will obviously lose more strength. You lose about 1/3 of the strength of the rope by tying a knot in it; so unless you have some fancy pants way of connecting the rope (sewn terminations for example) then there isn't much need for preserving 90% of the rope strength. Unfortunatly I don't have the numbers for where the PTD:Rope Dia ratio is close to the knotted strength loss. It's something I have been thinking about lately as I am purchasing some new gear for our Rope Rescue team and want to keep weight down. Let's make some assumptions now: -We will not screw up, ie good solid rigging -1 person load about 100kg -On earth 100kg makes about a 1kN force. Force in = Force out. The load is only 1kN. a 10:1 safety Factor (standard for most mtn rescue groups) means we now only need to look at keeping strength above 10kN... not too hard. Even that is a pretty conservative number, since we shouldn't be able to subject our system to shock loading - remember, 'good solid rigging.' We will have to add a little extra force to overcome friction in the system, but the better the pulleys we use, the less of that will happen. On a different track: 82g - Rock Exotica Mini Machined pulley 23g - Camp nano wire - can use something light here, no? ---- 105g 12g - Petzl Ultralitepulley 80g - Petzl OK oval - reccomended for above ---- 92g Difference? 13g... and the Rock Exotica pulley is a prusik minder... which will make your ratchet operate more smoothly.

Look into the real pullies that Rock Exotica is making these days. Super small, light, and still full strength... beautiful pieces of jewellery almost. This would be perfect...

I hadn't heard about that, but I doubt it will ever fly. The snomo industry is far too organized and has money... Just a point - Wiegle is not the owner of CMH - he owns Mike Wiegle Heli skiing...

on Vimeo. seems to crash my browser and often comes up with not availible in your country...

PM sent... at my price you can probably afford to get a pair of Intution liners to put in them as well..

Would a pair of Scarpa Lasers be of interest?

For those who were wondering, apparently the Peak across the road, on the inside of the hairpin is Hinkhouse Peak. AKA State Peak [beckey] or Washington Pass Pk.

Feck has one.

I didn't take too many pics, but here is my fave of the lot:

Location is in the 2nd post down on this page...

tanstaafl - you should stick around for at least one day of Ski In, no?? I'm keen to do Birthday Tour this year, but I won't be able to play on Friday. Also want to do something on Kangaroo Ridge, pick off another of the chutes perhaps. Also keen to get up to the Cutthroat area even though it got nixed as an idea last year for being too mellow. Sounds like I'm going to have to prioritize if the weather really is gonna go that way... Hmmmm....

The driveway turn off is at N 48.54950 W 120.34101 on the N side of SR20.

Oh yeah, it's the usual spot... give me a minute and I'll dig up the directions and post them...

I need to confirm that we will have sufficient numbers before I order a keg! Please let us know if you are coming. So far I only see 5 - DaveP, Feck, MattP, snogirl and me...

I know it's short notice, but let's get a roll call as best we can so we have an idea of how many beverages to bring, how many pancakes to prep etc... WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO000000000000ooOOOooOOt!11111!!!!!!!! I'll start - Me+1.

May 2/3 would work best for me... but who knows if it will actually open?

Looks like they are hoping to match last year's opening of May 1. That's only 3 weeks away...

Search the archive at www.tetonat.com and he talks about ironing in skin wax - might help.

How long does it take usually to get this thing open??