Mark_Husbands

what kind

no, white river. hwy 410.

in the mid 90s a buddy and I walked in from the locked gate at the northeast corner and climbed the Emmons. took like two days with massive packs to get to glacier basin if i remember right. we had to carry skis/sleds on our packs at first because the road had been plowed. then, somewhere around white river station we were able to start skinning and pulling sleds, which worked until we got past the campground. then the weather mildly sucked for like ten straight days, but we got a quick window to head up the winthrop/emmons. naturally, we had planned to do lib ridge, but...

pretty wind-stripped in many places.

I'm ambivalent about REI, but in the context the second part of the statement seems very out of place to me. "The one good thing is that these climbers are very well-skilled climbers," Strovink said. "They had purchased a great deal of equipment at REI before going up to Mount Hood."

One climber from New York (fuggedaboutit?)and two from Texas. hope for better weather... http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2003472215_webmissingclimbers11.html the comment within this article about gear purchases is almost unbelievable.

looking for antibotts and lasers only. i upgraded my homemade ice threader with a toothpaste cap, so it is as good as a fancy one.

looking for G-14 antibott plates and some sort of ice thread gizmo to replace my coat hanger. also laser picks. PM if seller. Thanks, M

Move, ASAP. Lots of options with potential for improvement. And/or get a new car.

it is my personal opinion that the fees charged at park units like the one in question should be more closely tied to the specific services that a visitor uses. In Denali NP, I think a more logical fee structure should be based on a landing strip/designated camp fee rather than a peak fee. These are the locations where the important resource management activities occur. Climbers that do not visit locations such as Kahiltna basecamp, 14 camp, Ruth Glacier, etc. would not be charged for the services associated with those locations. Climbers would retain the right to decide whether the huge convenience of a regulated airstrip is worth the additional expense. I am not advocating a complete cost recovery program, but a fee program that is based on an analysis of the actual costs of providing services beyond that required for the regular visitor--services that I do think are necessary in a place like Denali. I don't think it would be too challenging for the park to come up with a more equitable program than the current one.

PM sent.

i like the shorter yates screamers tht resemble draws. keeps the harness neat. the tie-off type dangle too much and i never seem to resort to this with the stuff that i climb. just one guy's preference.

in Denver, Wilderness Exchange Unlimited. carries seconds and blemished stuff for pretty good prices. knowledgable staff.

i did a quick read of that report and it seemed that "bad" ice was good, and "good" ice was bad. in addition to the important stuff about loading rate. and the perpendicular placement thing.

i just receieved an MEC Alpinelite 30 that looks pretty promising.

Couldn't get enough beta so I went to Right Mendel Couloir (w/ partner). somewhat unpleasant snow conditions in the boulder fields below couloirs and on descent. excellent, albeit brittle, ice in couloir that ran the entire upper length of the gully. several hundred feet of simulclimbing on neve to couloir split. one 70m pitch on neve over tricky rock move to screw belay. one 70m pitch on thick ice to rock belay. one 70m pitch on thick ice into upper narrow gully on mixed rock and ice to rock belay. short exit pitch on rock. lots of suffering and tears and whining on descent after reaching the Darwin Glacier. However, we did not get lost, which I assumed was certain in the dark. I need better calf exercise.

scarpas fit my wide forefoot.

are those metal edged CC skis or the track type?

to be fair, i survived a ride in this vehicle from Seattle to Lillooet in good comfort. no signs of imminent breakdown.

a thick layer of dog hair adds additional insulation...

Any recent info on Mendel Couloirs or V-notch Couloir? We had a nice little blast of snow last week that may give us some ice...

sometimes with a two bolt belay I will just do a figure eight on a bight with a large loop, clip this to bolt #1, and then equalize bolt#2 by cloving the tail to it.

I've had the best fit from 5.10s (and I love that rubber), but I'm sick of the delamination and overall low quality coupled with high prices (this has been my experience, anyway). Anyone recommend a good crack and long route shoe for wider feet that doesn't fall apart?

This is hilarious: This guide is for alpine climbers and low budget travellers. Those of you who want to visit France will find it most usefull. Whether you are a first time visitor or you have already been to France, you are sure to find this country annoying. "Budget travellers" section of this site will prepare you for some of its nasty surprises.

http://www.oqdos.com/