Mark_Husbands

who cares if it's been done before? the whole site is just a time waster. i think the new DMM Rebels look cool. A friend bought some and they seemed like a great all around ice tool. i'm hoping to try them out at some point.

Drove over this weekend from Mariposa. Climbed Bard Harrington and got a bunch of laps on the Chouinard. Surprisingly good shape considering the warm temperatures. Sticky enough but still some brittle surface ice to make you work a little. There was a crack across the BH at 2/3 height, and at about 3pm the sun would hit the left hand wall and send big bricks down from Hobnail Boots or whatever those routes are over there. Worthwhile.

plugging them into an overboot is good, if you're carrying an overboot

small + cheap + nice = MEC Alpinelite 30

elsewhere... Q: The Helix Potty Trowel has a striking resemblance to an ice axe. Have you considered using it as an ice axe? A: Hmmm. Wow. Now that you mention it, it does kind of look like an ice axe. I've heard that a number of thru-hiker's have been using the Potty Trowels on the PCT and CDT as a non-technical ice axe for glissading, basic slope safety, and the occasional self-arrest. You certainly have to admire the weight conscious, muli-use philosophy employed by these intrepid hikers! funny.

It’s not your fault. A lot of people have ridiculously large feet.

the undersize shell will be perrrrfect with an intuition. I have the same set up; least sloppy plastic I've ever used.

april 1 2005

ski round top mountain?

i undo my leg loops, zip on my pants, tuck them under the waistbelt, and rebuckle leg loops. never have to unplant feet. obviously, i dont go puttin on and taking off pants in the middle of steep pitches, but there's lots of times i've wanted my last little layer of warmth sometime after putting on big boots. some of those slip on pants wouldn't even slip over boots, and even those that would, you get them all wet in side. so my preference for wintery climbing is full zips. i cant afford arcteryx gear anyway, but i've never been attracted to their full-zip-minus-four-inches approach.

i prefer full zips on any trip i'm carrying crampons. on a sneaker/rock shoe trip i'd take pull-on rain pants.

I have the exact same precip shell setup you ordered and i like it. cheap and fairly light protection. i usually wear softshell pants and cheap nylon windshirt and would don the precip if rain/snow/cold wind.

Thanks for the quality information, all. M

I have often thought such a thing would be useful but would be hard pressed to pony up for it. in a partnership, who pays for it? tragedy of the commons. let's not even talk about the free rider problem.

Thanks. The AAJ is what got my attention. On Alaska Mountain Forum, Mark Westman provided some good information about an attempt he made on Bear Tooth in sub-optimal conditions. We'll definitely have chance to look over the photos at the Ranger Station. But if anyone knows of any other moderates from the Root Canal (H&E and SNS excluded) I'd love to hear about it.

no

Great guide. No route description for Bear Tooth. A few photos of the Mooses Tooth do show Bear Tooth and the huge couloir that separates Mooses from Bear.

i'm not sure there's any good way to carry a three foot picket (other than on the side of your pack) unless you're 7 feet tall. despite the obvious shortcomings, cutting those in half makes for a handier carry. i guess a 1.5 foot picket could still be deadmanned successfully. hope i'm right.

Anyone have any information about climbing Bear Tooth from the Root Canal Glacier? Saw something about it in an alpine journal article but no details.

You should probably rule out places inside National Parks for farming.

I just added fangs to my cobras with a dremel. not at all hard. seems totally stable enough for my purposes.

did it get hit with a rock?

OK. I always try to keep potentially frozen stuff out of my boots, but what do I know?

will the felt absorb water perhaps?

maybe would have been better to use a pad, but I can't feel the edge at all and the foam seems to just spread out there. we're talking about a very small space. i certainly dont notice any cold spots. I mean the foam doesn't migrate from heel to toe or anything. but if the intuition folks suggest something as simple as a piece of cut foam, why not?