Mark_Husbands

Yes, the descent starts on a ledge system to your left as you drop down to the south off the summit. It picks up before the ridge gets narrow and wild looking. There are cairns--I am pretty sure one marks the entrance, and for a while as you get started it is almost a climbers trail. Then there are a few raps, one of which was pretty hinkey slung block where you can't really see much of the slings jammed back behind it--at the end of a narrow gravelly ledge.. Once down, I have always stayed right once I passed the first set of small lakes, because it looks like--and i have been warned--that you get cliffed out if you hug the base of Mendel’s east face, even though maps make it look OK. Maybe someone else has been that way.

how do you use that as an autoblock?

The main reason for the really low gradient trails is to make them easy, but one other thing is that high use trails--and most especially trails that get stock use like the PCT--end up getting pretty loose. Steeper trails carry more water in the spring, and they get rutted out. So lower angle, more heavily constructed (you know, water bars, steps (check dams) in steep spots) trails are a good fit for higher use areas that get more casual users anyway. I'm not saying some of the routes out there are a little overkill on the easy, but there is minor trail conservation logic that goes with it.

Just for context, realize that the road to Chimborazo is not "plowed" to 15,7, it just goes that high. It's on the equator, Quito has a mild climate at 9,350 ft, and 15,7 looks and feels like high plains. You are hardly on the mountain at that point, just on a broad uplift. I went there in 94 and climbed to one of the sub-summits before bailing with a brutal headache--being able to fly and drive so high has its drawbacks. The climbing was typical volcano climbing on glaciers at that time, with a few cracks to find your way around or over. I also climbed 2 routes on Illiniza Sur and the Italian Route on El Altar, which were good fun and somewhat more technical. I wouldn't recommend Ecuador as a destination for an experienced mountaineer, but it is a good place to get altitude experience, and the country has plenty of other great travel destinations.

"Nathaniel's Nutmeg" is a fun, easy-to-read, popular history about 17th century Dutch-English conflict over "Spice Islands" trade. The monopolization of the spice trade by the VOC was a key element in transforming Holland from a former-Hapsburg province to a world power and the richest country of its time. In their approach to business, the VOC definitely played hardball.

I just opened this post and cant see anything that anyone else said that warranted THAT response. whats your deal with the Dutch East Indies Company thing, anyway?

Also, I never used the reverso with the brake across the frame part, always the bar part. I was suprised when someone showed me a Petzl diagram showing braking that way. Seemed obvious that thin frame area would wera faster than the bar. Whenever I was worried about a fast rappel I would put on a leg loop biner or something like that. I still use the Reversino for the ice skinnies.

I've used both and think they both work fine, but I like the deeper grooves on the guide and the larger diameter autoblock hole on the Reverso, which allowed me to rig it with opposed non-lockers.

Get a tool that is intended for vertical ice but doesn't have a double leashless spikeless handle (like BD Fusion, Quark Ergo-altough people will alpine climb with these too). aim for the lighter end of the steep ice tool category. people seem to love some of the newer superlight tech tools for alpine, but I personally have to make do with one pair of tools, and I would rather carry a little extra weight on easy alpine ice than try to climb water ice with a lightweight tool. my friend has a pair of those DMM Rebels and they seem awesome. I only got to swing them a couple times. But based on the design they would cross over very well.

that is one of the great sierra loops--on foot or skis.

seems like if you are going to girth hitch slings to slings, make them nylon.

never used such but seems like a great idea. i'm sick of pushin my old 180 BD Vertiges with plastics. i have thought of getting tiny kids skis and mounting my Silv 300s on them.

very poor

Predictions (perhaps bogus ones): I think the season for the wide, fat couloirs (U Notch, V Notch) will be early this year. My experience is that these are reliable but sometimes you go early you get all neve, no ice, then things melt too fast and the tops get loose and dirty before the good runnels form. Split (hardly ever forms to my knowledge...I have asked around a bit) and Left Mendel probably bare (at least the cruxes). Right Mendel...could be..(climbed this last year in great conditions around Oct 28). This year i predict earlier and thinner but maybe with ice stretching down a bit lower. Could be that there is so little snow this year that there is nothing to feed the gully from above. I never seem to hit the Left Mendel when the conditions allow your humble weekend warrior to get over the starting rock, but the Right is a favorite. The Thompson and Gilbert gullies are probably in the reliable but early category, but at least one of those ones on Thompson ( I can't figure the names out) always seems to end thin or on rock so I would assume it would peter out even earlier this year. North Peak gullies are reliable but a little shorter and lower angle (45-50). However, I will always pitch the option of soloing the main North Peak gully and then continuing over the North Ridge of Conness (and walking down the East Ridge to the car) as one of the greatest day outings around (for your humble weekend warrior). I have never been to Feather Peak, or on the Checkered Demon.

MEC alpinelight 30 is sort of an accoutered Genie. I like.

Seems like there is so little snow that skis wouldn't be worth it even if there is a little travel over snow. should be walkable in the early morning anyway. i haven't been up to tuolumne yet, of course.

I would consider bringing one Trango 3 type tent and building cook caves at the longer stay camps.

I have been comfortable in a 30 degree down bag up there (and down here (High Sierra) too).

I also called TAT and they did say there were folks on the Ruth. I have not heard any first hand reports of route conditions. One of the rangers I spoke to was sceptical about ice conditions, on say, Ham and Eggs, but he also said they hadn't been able to get in to the Ruth themselves to look around. I have a trip planned there very soon, so if anyone hears any first hand conditions reports I sure would like to hear them too.

any new pilot, climber, or ranger reports?

i have newmatic g-12s that i have liked for mountaineering and g-14s i like for ice and alpine climbing. never tried the sabretooths-look okay-but i have a grudge against bd crampons ever since my switchblade purchase in 1994.

seriously, i haven't put shovel or skis on it, but for ice tools and crampons and a day's worth of stuff, the little 50 dollar MEC alpinelite 30 is really great.

Thanks. Anyone hear any more pilot's reports of landing or climbing conditions up there?

makes you see red.

mini whisk broom and dust (snow) pan