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Mark_Husbands

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Everything posted by Mark_Husbands

  1. I'd wear my Freney XTs to do what you mentioned as long as its summer.
  2. mountainsmith wisp (brand not withstanding). i've found it warm to its rated 30 deg., 1lb. 5 0z. (spec), and you can find them cheaper than the cool brands like WM and FF. puffy and vaporous.
  3. No problem. I understand that many people have valid concerns about use limits.
  4. It's for a masters's thesis, and part of a study commissioned by the park. I work for a research unit at UW; the study is not supported by any environmental groups, nor is it a tacit attempt to use "solitude" language to support use limits. You can "encourage" folks to do whatever you like. The pictures are only needed to spice up a progress report for some folks that provided me a grant. The study findings stand on their own with or without the pictures. The reason I suggested PMs for more info is so that this simple request for photos wouldn't devolve into political spray. The offer still stands for anyone willing to provide some photos, or anyone interested in the study. Thanks to those folks that have already sent photos.
  5. Well, we knew nobody wants to answer questions at the mountain, so we contacted folks when they got permits, then they answered questions online AFTER their climb. I've climbed Rainier twice (Emmons in April before 410 opened, and Gib Ledges in March) and on neither occasion were there any other parties climbing (and on the Emmons we didn't see anyone for like ten days). So I know quite well that it is possible to be alone on Rainier if that is your goal.
  6. We sampled during four weeks in July and August. Because of the expense of paying a survey worker to be present, we couldn't contemplate sampling all summer..either a census or a random sample. So we structured our sample to include weekends and weekdays to capture a range of use levels during peak season. We wanted to do June but there were hangups with research review boards. Sorry we didn't hit your week. Our study only focused on Emmons, DC, (and to a limited degree Kautz) during peak season. So I'm only interesed in photos representing those routes. No conclusions will be made about other routes or non-peak season times. Nor will it be insinuated that a photo representing a busy period on the mountain is representative of all periods on the mountain. Hope that helps. If you want more detailed info PM me.
  7. Yes, I sent you an email with a long-winded explanation. Read it if you feel like it. Your pictures will be appreciated. I don't want to mine the gallery for photos without permission from the photo owner, since the report will be semi-public.
  8. The report is on an survey of DC and Emmons climbers last summer. It reports their responses to a variety of questions about the conditions they encountered while climbing. There is no "agenda", nor an argument for regulation or a reduction in permit numbers.
  9. DPS: With only 1 pad did you get any ground chill? Pynchon: Except for "Crying of Lot 49" I've never been able to finish a Pynchon. "Crying" is much shorter than his other books, so you spend less time being confused. I'll make a pitch for the Sultana on Foraker as an alternative to the Butt. Since it's a mountaineering route and not an alpine climb it gets bagged on like the Buttress as a "slog", but it, like the Butt (which I haven't climbed), has fantastic views and miles of interesting glaciated ridge. We shared the route with no other climbers, but passed a couple parties on our descent. Technically, climbers skilled enough for the Butt should be skilled enough for Sultana, but you get to be alone, build your own camps (although I hate that part), crampon from 6800 ft, and so on. Plus, it's lower, so you can get some altitude experience before committing to Denali. I thought it was a very good introduction to the Alaska range for me and probably would be for many West Butt aspirants.
  10. anyway, i thought the "degre" was the soft rainier rental boot, and the vertical was the stiffer shelled model with cooler colors.
  11. I'm putting together a brief report on "crowding" issues on DC and Emmons. If anyone is willing to provide photos (and permission) that might illustrate busy camp conditions, congestion at various points on the route, or other concerns please PM me; I can provide email address. It would be a big help. If anyone has any questions about the study I'd also be happy to respond to a PM. Thanks, Mark Husbands
  12. do you want hiking or climbing boots? i have some Asolo AFS 101s in very good shape if you want plastics. they might fit.
  13. "boulderaiding"...genius...short routes, linking a few moves of absolutely desperate aid above a mattress. it will push the envelope.
  14. Fenderfour is cooking the books. I expect him to hit FF in June.
  15. I get all my hangars at Exit 38. When I get enough I'm going to enhance the safety of the last two pitches of Outer Space. It's my prerogative 'cause I'm a climbin' fricken anarchist!
  16. awesome. mountaineering. i want to go.
  17. look at leavenworth weather, or eastern slope mountain forecast on NOAA site. skykomish will be wetter. I think its a great cragging area. i've been several times when the rain was visible just to the west but it was dry enough to climb and sit out the occasional sprinkle.
  18. plant some meth in his car and report your "suspicions" to the cops. it's hilarious! (cops take pictures for you)
  19. Did you read the article? They aren't "fighting global warming" with this blanket, they are trying to avert more costly measures of keeping their ski area open. The real point is that dealing with climate change consumes real resources, and understanding the contribution of human activities to climate change is part of finding intelligent, economically efficient solutions. Plus, the Republicans are at fault.
  20. it means he's part of the republican core constituency.
  21. I think everything you need is the previous link and these two. Mail or fax the form and payment. http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/climb.htm#perm http://www.nps.gov/mora/recreation/rsvpform1.htm
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