Mark_Husbands

Indexworth?

sequim?

mazama

everett

wisdom

they're often sold in lots, but individually I've seen them for 10 bucks. cheaper in lots. obviously i'm not talking prescription here. i sometimes use contacts for day climbing, but i still want some shard protection.

anyone ever use clear industrial type safety glasses for ice climbing?

so the rocker of the crampon fits the rocker of the boot OK? I've had problems with flat rockered boots leaving gaps.

Anyone use Grivel Crampomatic G-14s on Lowa Civettas? How is the fit?

I came here for a poll. where is the damn poll?

rambles

i like to keep a slew of BD 17s on clippers for intermediate pro. i keep 2 22s on back of harness for anchors. i keep some (or none, depending) shorty or 360 screws on individual biners for specialty placements. then i load up the front loops with screamers, runners, draws. that's just what I do. i might take more than 5 17s if the pitches are full length and the ice fat enough to take a bunch. 7?

Terror, Inspiration, Fury, Despair, Triumph

wishbone

Well thanks for the repies. the reason that I asked is that in 1998 (which was an unusually fair weather year I think) i climbed Sultana from late April till mid May. On the way up (say beginning of may) snow conditions on Crosson 6800-12800 were pretty darn good, but coming back down 12 days later or so it was awful wet sloghing stuff. and looking over into the NW basin on hunter we could see tracks totally buried by a big slough (after the climbers passed i mean). i've wondered whether that was an unusually warm May, unusually sunny, or if West ridge or similar snow routes at 7000-12000 are a poor bet that time of year. i think my sense is that late april early may is ideal but sometimes your free time doesn't match up...and conditons probably vary enough that some June seasons could still be good and cold at those elevations, others not. thanks for replies, mark

Anyone ever climb Hunter in June (or later)? Curious about snow conditions.

yes, overboots take on a new life in your snow castle. put your down booties inside them, and get busy stirring snow.

My opinion: Intuition liners + Vertical Shells + overboots = just fine Down bag would be better. Parbat is the minimum. Bigger coat better. The coldest I got (on Foraker and Logan) was standing around cooking as much as climbing on summit day. If you are going heavy expedition style (as I did) you'll probably end up hanging around snow forts running XGKs for what seems like hours. Hard to stay warm. Jacket and Pants combo or suit needed. If you climb alpine style and cook in your tent you could probably scale the down down so to speak. I have only been on 2 expeditions so there may be other more experienced persons with different advice. Mark I have a couple items I may need to sell. PM if interested.

give thanks for the wilderness act, and support its enforcement.

I wondered how it would look with a bit of ice on it. In general it looks like you guys found a bit more ice than we did. nice climb.

Photos of the chockstone?

North peak gully (right) was my first alpine climb. i used asolo yukons w/ smc strap-ons and 2 70cm rei mtn. axes. i was scared shitless. took us hours of picket pounding to go up 800 ft. went back some years later, climbed in like an hour, soloed over the N. Ridge of Conness and back down the E. Ridge to the car. (Recommended). Amazing that, even for a weekend warrior hack like me, your idea of what is possible can change so dramatically. I've climbed a lot of Sierra moderates, if you ever want info feel free to email me.

which gullies did you climb? get to Mendel?

G-14s seem to fit XT fine, even with stock bar. the sole of the xt is definitely a different, more curved shape than the old blue Freneys. I found that the old freneys were so lacking in rocker that they couldnt really accept g-14s withut a big gap under the ball odf the foot. the Xts have more rocker, and the curve seems OK too.

dunno