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Everything posted by matt_warfield
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I believe the guide is in the works and slated for this year or next. Should have lots of good new stuff in it.
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Yes, I wondered about his "scoring". He gave Seattle the edge in offense and defense but somehow the other categories ended up putting Carolina on top. He wisely reconsidered.
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The old access is closed. The new access adds a little extra walking but at least in the winter there should be plenty of parking.
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E38 has more climbing in the moderate range (5.10 and under) but is quite spread out and most think is chossier. E32 (principally World Wall) is premiere for 5.11 and up (way up). You'll end up trying both due to their convenient close location and deciding for yourself.
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You guys are all posers. Get off "our" thread.
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Off-widths aside, what about exposure? Your buddy needs to get a lot of air under him and then imagine doing that for days without relent. He might find difficulty and type of climbing take a back seat to plain old fear.
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DFA speaks truth. My advice: do not be in denial about it. If you talk yourself into continuing climbing (and especially gym climbing) before healing is complete (i.e. no pain), you will be sorry.
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Chuck's link above also references Granite Mountain near Prescott, which will need sun in February to be warm enough but is a wonderful multipitch granite location with routes of all grades and great ambience. Try to find the routes with sandbag ratings.....
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No more perfect season to play for but the Colts do not want to lose at least 2 of their last 3 games. I think it will be played more seriously by the Colts than you think. The Hawks are good and I'm rooting for them but the Colts may be better.....
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I gave myself wicked elbow tendinitis by trying to shovel 10 yds of topsoil in record time. For many months, my climbing was curtailed/affected, but instead of potential chestbeating about overtraining, etc., all I had was the dirty truth! I also know a guy who fell off a ladder and broke both wrists. For several weeks, he had casts on both hands and needed his wife and others to do EVERYTHING requiring hands for him 24/7.
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How about Angel at Castle Rock? A 5.7 route with a 5.10- bouldery start that gets slicker with each passing year.
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The "I've been climbing for x-years" thread
matt_warfield replied to catbirdseat's topic in Climber's Board
I've been at it a while too (about the same as billco), but some of the things I learned should just as well be forgotten: how to tie a swami belt how to fall with a swami belt how to readjust my organs after falling with a swami belt how to dulfersitz rappel on 3/8" goldline how to readjust my organs after said rappel how to put cool knee patches on cord knickers how to wear painter's pants and flatcap to be like hot Henry how to use a 120' rope for rock climbing 150' routes how to use soft iron pitons how to climb with logging boots how to climb with stiff (and decidedly unsticky) rock shoes how to protect all climbs without cams etc. -
The "I've been climbing for x-years" thread
matt_warfield replied to catbirdseat's topic in Climber's Board
He IS well rounded at taking photos..... -
Whitesnake
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Joshua Tree or Arizona (Granite Mountain at Prescott if warm enough or Tucson otherwise). All offer gobs of granite goodness.....
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Anyways, thanks to Doug for posting the good, the bad, the ugly, and the legal on our subject and all in one post!
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Ephedra is a supplement. As a supplement, it is riskier than many other supplements. Ephedra is a stimulant. As a stimulant, it is riskier than caffeine but not as risky as coke or crack. It is definitely riskier when taken at high dosages, which is probably the case in reported deaths. The government rarely regulates supplements but did in this case and now is being challenged in court. Ephedra is a risk. Life is a risk. Posting opinions on cc.com is a big risk. Also, archenemy specifically requested that we discuss ad nauseum but instead we are discussing ephedra.
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hey, maybe gymrat was right earlier in Spray. Reardon is the quintessential Californian climber. How can Washingtonians possibly compete!
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Reardon is also the one who free solo'd almost 300 routes in Joshua Tree in one day. He did some easy ones but also many 11's and 12's. Also a very impressive achievement!
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I would suggest taking your personal survey at World Wall I at Little Si, Midnight Rock, and Index rather than at Exit 38, Roto Wall, and Mountaineer's Dome like it appears you have been.
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cheap places to stay 'round estes park/RMNP?
matt_warfield replied to layton's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Colorado Mountain School runs a hostel at their office in Estes Park. -
Enumclaw to Everett Puyallup to Everett Alpental to Seattle (Boeing examples) Cle Elum to Seattle by carpool (was in Times once) And I know of a guy who commuted from near Leavenworth to work steel in West Seattle but he would cheat and hang in the parking lot for a night or 2 in a trailer.
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Squamish rock climbing question?
matt_warfield replied to thin_air_aaron's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Go up there, buy Kevin McClane's guide, and then do an ascent onto a stool at the Howe Sound Brewery and identify climbs on the Chief through the window while quaffing a beer. Then go back in the summer. -
I think it can be effective for robust people without heart problems but in doses far less than what was recommended on the bottles previously. But what about the ban?