matt_warfield

Such a bummer that there is a logging road cut into such a nice peak.

Being around Steve House in the Himalaya has just made it worse.

I checked the link and yes the double overhand is what I'm talking out and the figures confirm its advantages. I have seen the knot where the tails end up in separate directions called an overhand follow through whereas the knot in question is an overhand, with the tails together. But with the you say tomato and I say tomato flavor of the climbing community, I doubt if we'll be able to mandate that! We will however, be able to use the knot of our choice for many safe secure rappels. And mine shall be the double overhand.

No, what I am talking about is starting with mattp's picture, but doing another "overhand" that will sit inside (i.e. away from the tails) of the first knot. Since it is an "overhand", it is easy to tie the second and nest it next to the first knot. Like many knots, however, it is somewhat difficult to precisely describe. Try it and see! I'll bet that the principal advantage is to reduce the turning over properties of the EDK under high loads.

I have no picture, but the nested knots have more security and keep sticking up in the air for low profile next to the rock. Try it at home..... (I have an AMGA guide friend who uses this setup.)

The EDK can be backed up with another EDK inside the first one to retain the low profile, still with long tails. I agree that it shouldn't be called overhand to differentiate it from a follow through overhand shown above but I sure wish it had a good name that didn't have "death" in it!

If you search you will find extensive discussion on this site with good info. Double fishermans is hard to untie and has a tendency to snag on things easily. The overhand is a good option that doesn't easily catch on things but should be backed up and tied with long tails. (Okay, mattp beat me to it)

Two of us were on an alpine start at Long's Peak, Colorado and had paused at about 4:00 a.m. at The Boulderfield, which happens to also be a place where one can camp if the 15 mile RT hiking route is too much for one day. We were chatting when from inside a nearby tent came "Shut up- some people are trying to sleep", to which my partner replied "Well why did you camp right on a trail frequently travelled at night?" The reply was some cursing and a "Don't make me have to come out there and beat on you" kind of statement to which my partner said "Bring it on!" Luckily we left before any altercation and proceded with one of the best (Casual Route on the Diamond) and most eventful (stuck rappel ropes, dropped pack, lightning) climbing days of my life. And it all could have started with a preclimb fight to boot!

Climbing magazine's site says they have "disappeared" and announces a climbing grant in their honor sponsored by Mountain Hardware.

Three or four years ago I was broken into at Vantage (midweek so not a lot of in/out traffic), replaced the stereo and window and the SAME DAY I got everything replaced I was broken into at Exit 38, Far Side. I was ready to wreak havoc. I told the stereo joint I wanted my old crappy radio put back in so there was nothing of value to take! A couple of years later I came out of the Enchantments and most cars at the trailhead (more than 10) had been broken into and pillaged. We felt sorry for the happy campers yet to discover the nasty surprise.

Thanks for the info. A cursory overview such as this should also describe which ticks are involved with which diseases.

I agree completely with TimL. Roped climbers that show bad judgment or are over their heads can epic and be in great danger. Experienced solo climbers often appear to be in little danger. The standard bearers with thousands of solo pitches would be Bachar, Croft, Potter, and maybe currently Reardon. I saw Bachar this spring at Owen's Gorge free soloing up to 10d and I had the feeling there was zero chance of him falling. But these guys are very careful about what they solo as opposed to Hersey who commonly soloed much closer to his maximum roped grade. These things are just not accounted for in stats.

How about the first ascent of Pipeline at Squamish (10d intimidating offwidth done free solo reportedly after a breakup). But Fowler's is also classic and resulted in the name change to "Casual Route" after describing the route as such in an interview.

Great TR.

While IB is quite long, it really isn't breaking new ground (long bolted face climbs in the mountains or at least a ways from the road) as these type of routes have been long established elsewhere, including Europe and Canada. And how do we draw the line between Goat Wall or Portrero Chico, all long and bolted, from Mt. Garfield? Because it has a summit or is X miles from the road or is in/close to wilderness? And how do we distinguish rap bolting in alpine from rap bolting at true sport areas where it has long been the standard? So I second OffWhite in that IB is not that out of the mainstream of today's climbing scene but is instead a lightning rod for people who basically don't like bolted climbs all that well in the first place.

Sounds like the refs decided it. A non-foul resulting in a breakaway goal and a penalty kick. But Brazil would have kicked our asses anyway next. Better to get it over with now and let Ghana take that heat.

How much distance will it add?

These are the kind of trips most people lie about because they can't do them! Nice work!

Right now all the kids hike up to the top where they admire the view and are about 30 feet away from the top of WWI. Danger is around with or without a rope or rung. And climbers will always examine accidents from the standpoint of preventing their own or others. Other recent threads have been way more off base than this one.

That's exactly what it would look like.....except remove all of the cable and all but two or three of the rungs. We're talking about a few sketchy vertical feet here.....not a walkway to the summit of Half Dome.

Helmets are rarely seen on LL and belays across the ledge are as rare as bigfoot sightings. The sketchy section is regularly done in tennies, flip flops, and bare feet. This is just the nature of the beast ("Hey would you give me a belay on this class 4 bit on the way to my 5.13 proj?") Nonetheless, I predict we will continue to see accidents in this area whether it be due to crowding, conditions, or just plain old lack of focus.

For perspective, the "area" being considered consists of less than 100 feet of ledge acessing many climbs of which few are under 5.12 and several of which are among the hardest in the state. And the ledge would rarely be visited if not for sport climbing.

Hey, this is the way it is now on weekends!

Well, I suppose I agree with RuMR. It's hard to draw the line. If one installs something on LL then why not a line for the scramble up to the upper left of World Wall? The guides state the exposed access and that should be enough. And things are increasingly sketch when wet or crowded- caveat emptor.

I always use the upper transition option, which is more secure, but either way it requires caution especially when the ledge is crowded. I would think a method of assistance would be appropriate for this heavily used sport location.