matt_warfield

And he apparently also didn't have start/finish/summit witnesses and timers either. It's almost like he just wanted to do this for himself!

So Peter Croft has a ponytail now? Anyway, any ideas about identity? That's a big day requiring great endurance as well as superb rock climbing ability.

Guides are service professionals with a lot of experience and training that have a direct impact on your safety and the success of your trip. I would recommend tipping a similar % as waiters/waitresses as long as you feel good about the trip and had fun.

The lower Enchantments have more and better camp sites for a large group than the upper Enchantments and allow quick access to most of the peaks you mention. Pick one of the lakes that's a little ways in for the optimum. You'll enjoy seeing it without all that snow!

"Some Leavenworth residents opposed the plan" How about most or all! May the physics of gravity continue to rule in Icicle.

Diedre is worth the hassle for your first trip. Do it on a weekday and get on it early to beat the crowds.

I'm glad you're okay.

Less alpine and shorter but still enjoyable is to hike up to the top of The Chief in Squamish.

Well, you are indeed mighty lucky friend. I think it helped a lot to try July and also midweek and also only 2 people. I hope you have a great trip. Lots of woods near Stuart TH to hide/chain bikes to and its a nice downhill ride to Snow TH. Be sure to hike up Little Annapurna for stellar views.

Beware guides that state "unrepeated". Often the author just doesn't know about it or it's been done since publication. Smoot always says Supercrack in Leavenworth is unrepeated but it's been done a few times at least.

But Yuji and Francois got bouted royally. And what about Whores of Babylon (14.b) at "always overrated" Exit 32. Any 2nd ascent??????

Realization: 5.15a Action Directe: 5.14d Just Do It: 5.14c To Bolt....: 5.14a I figured since I'm the FIRST ONE to suggest sport climbs amongst all the trad suggestions, I should pick some proud lines that have stood the test of time.

Washington had a very dry winter with low snowpack so expect early snow melt and a dry summer with ramifications on flowers and fire potential. have a great trip.

All summer permits are allocated at the 3/1 deadline so you have zero chance of a reservation by mail at this time. The chances of getting a permit at the daily lottery vary, but improve for midweek, small parties, and for people willing to camp below the Enchantments and day hike there. The permit given will always be for the entire trip. Good luck.

Lyme Desease is primarily transmitted through deer ticks, which are about the size of a freckle. Most of the ticks hikers and climbers encounter are wood ticks (larger) that also can transmit disease but not commonly Lyme. I have had many ticks over the years (some in awkward locations ) and have never gotten one out alive. It's always a mining expedition for all the parts. When I was a kid somebody said put alcohol on it, so I got out the Jack Daniels and that didn't work either but got a smile out of my parents. One thing's for sure- THEY SUCK!

Between the 10 mile approach and the permit system, I'll bet the route is hardly ever crowded. Go get it.

The E38 guide has a checklist of TRable routes.

It is not sustained and a light rack will suffice. The 5.7 step is unprotected so put your strong leader on it. The last pitch has a few 5.6-5.7 moves and then eases. A couple of other notes: 1)the route winds around lots of features and communication is difficult so plan around that, and 2) the last pitch does NOT climb the chimney straight above the start of the pitch but instead winds around the corner to the right to an easier short chimney. Some topos are misleading in this area. It's a classic route in a grand position to a tremendous summit. Have fun!

Marie, the goats are seeking salt and are legendary for their tenacity in doing so. I suspect that the early season and lack of other visitors made your group a target. I think there have been a few cases of aggressiveness but some people might not be real smart about it since they seem so tame.

Cruel Shoes is a classic and the bolts are fine. The runout pitch is indeed runout but not continuous. The other pitches are continuous and the crux is hard for the grade. Cruel Shoes is one way to get to the Split Pillar while Apron Strings/Merci Me is another. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall is a lot of climbing. Have fun.

The real key is how much snow and nobody has weighed in on that yet. I suspect it won't be crowded as many may not be tuned in to the special opportunity provided by low snowpack this year. Aasgard and some of the basin travel in early season will require some care. Prusik climbs should be in fine shape but expect snow and slop on the north side descent. Get up there and let us know about the conditions.

It is definitely worth doing Klahanie Crack at Shannon Falls, but it sounds like Smoke Bluffs fills your bill otherwise. You can get quite a few nice leads and TR's of neighboring harder routes. I would stay off Diedre on a holiday weekend. Go look at the thread on crowds at Outer Space and multiply it for Diedre.

Perhaps they got turned back surmounting the burkshard on the Diamond of Longs Peak during an accludimization/training run on a route which, when researched, is only Class 5 and therefore not much more difficult than nearby Class 4 routes. I hadn't seen this thread when it first came up- it's priceless.

That's "Drude".

On my foray up Icicle on Saturday, I think I saw about 10 people on R&D. Good thing you got on it Friday. In fact, despite all the talk about showers, I have never seen as many people climbing in Icicle..... I had to go to MaiFest just to excape the crowds!