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Everything posted by Paco
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Of course you don't need my official permission to bolt, but I do have an opinion and will offer it. The routes and location still seem very contrived. I can see a legit argument for finding and developing a "mixed" climbing area seperate from an already developed sport climbing areas, but still question the validity of developing here just because some ice forms near here during the winter. The route that I saw needs no ice to form in order to be climbed. The routes in the picture require no ice to form to climb. There is nothing "mixed" about those routes. It's just rock climbing with crampons and ice tools. And people have been putting up difficult mixed climb long before heal spurs, leashless tools, and 30 ft. bolted "mixed" routes in Alpental. Like I said earier, not every piece of choss needs to be bolted. It just surprised me to see bolts here because it really didn't seem much different than anywhere else in the Alpental valley. Maybe we should bolt the north face of the tooth so some some folks can climb it with crampons and ice tools and call it a great new mixed route. Maybe that will allow us as PNW climbers to be placed back at the cuting edge of climbing. Also, the question as to how long the routes have been there has yet to be answered.
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On the approach to the Tooth this weekend I noticed a fixed line and at least one bolted route. This was located above the first talus field near the start of the second one. The route had maybe four bolts with big chain anchors. The route was maybe 30ft and 6ft overhanging. It looks like someone is trying to develop this area. WTF? How long has this been going on? This seems like a shitty place to bolt and develop for sport climbing. My $0.02 - keep the bolts at Exit 32 and 38. Not every piece of overhanging choss needs to be developed and bolted.
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I think I have an old climbing mag with an article on ice climbing in Italy. I'll try to look for it tonight.
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Da Toof with ehmmic, I am soooo hardcore.
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...off to the big prison in the sky. Here's to the man in black.
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1. Cooper Spur, Mt. Hood 2. North Ridge, Sherpa Peak 3. Frostbite Ridge, Glacier Peak
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So I fixed myself some gourmet Cheerios for breakfast just now.... Anyways, check this out... Spoon 1: the letters O,O,O,O and O Spoon 2: the letters O,O,O,O,O,O,O,O, and O Spoon 3: the letter O,O,O, and O Spoon 4: the letters O and O... What does that spell? OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. What is my cereal telling me??!!!
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Abbove suggestions good... another easy option is to bake with a little olive oil and then add a dab of miso/soy sauce mix. Not much is needed as the miso/soy sauce mix is powerful. Add some steemed rice and steemed broccoli and you have one fantastic, easy meal!
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I'll probably make an appearance at said event.
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Congrats Josh Here's to the two of you!
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New River Gorge (West Virginia) + Summersville Lake is a great place. Stay at Roger's (Rocky Top Campground near the cliffs with Flight of the Gumby and Lactic Acid Bath - I can't remember the name) There isn't a whole lot of stuff at the NRG that's under 5.10. It's pretty much all sport as the only trad lines that get climbed are the ones that can be top-roped. The others get dirty pretty quick. Check out some of the climbs in the Bridge Area. Red River Gorge (Kentucky) is a great place also. Known for it's overhanging jug routes. There's a climbers campground there too. I don't know the name, but I think it's in the backyard of a pizza shop or something like that. Seneca (West Virginia) is the place for trad routes in West Virginia. Lot's of moderates and nice exposure. I don't know too much about rock further south other than there is a lot and it's good too. You're own your own for partners. Have fun and I hope this helps.
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I'm in for Squamish this weekend. Anyone wanna carpool? Leave Friday night or early Saturday morning. Return Sunday night.
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I saw a post for a cool looking houseboat for sale in Stone Gardens the other day. The boat looked like it was wooden though, but who knows. Asking price was 47k if I remember right. Looked like a new post.
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Word
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An experience most easily repeated by consuming beforehand.
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If'n you're interested in going to Squamish, check your PM's.
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Squamish! neversummer, check you PM's. Party at the brew pub Saturday night!
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I'll second the Kort Haus.
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I'll try to make this one even if traffic sucks.
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Anacortes seems pretty cool to me. Mazama seems pretty cool too. Haven't really been to Oly, but I bet it sucks.
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FWIW I think Dean Potter used 100M of 6 mm line for his solo escapades in Patagonia. You can read about it in AAJ 2002. Getting off of those climbs in Patagonia require many raps so if 6mm if good enough for that, I would say go with 6mm. If 6mm scares you too much, use 7mm, but 8mm is definitely overkill.
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Not sure if this one has been mentioned yet, but it's one that I really like. (I didn't bother reading the whole thread). "So, as you would imagine, I grew up exuberant in body but with a nervy, craving mind. It was wanting something more, something tangible. It sought for reality intensely, always if it were not there... But you see at once what I do. I climb." John Menlove Edwards
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It came across right - I am not that blonde. Oh wait - I am not blonde at all. I was giving you some shit - so strut away! I figured that much, but I needed some way to humorously transition into the bit about you wanting to see me "strut my stuff". Plus it had the added benefit of making you look really, well....uhm...blonde.