Paco

Have fun TRoth. I'm bailing on Smith and heading to Tieton for a day. The slideshow at Smith sounds pretty cool though.

Anyone going? The weather looks kind of lousy and cold?

On Saturday 8/15 I left a pair of Reef flip-flops near the base of the 5.9 roof climb at Clem's Holler in L-worth. I would love to get them back. Hopefully someone picked them up. There were a few other parties in that area on Saturday.

Thank you. Check you PMs.

Lost one purple 5.10 spire rock climbing shoe on Sunday Feb 11 somewhere on the trail betwen Gritscone and trailhead.

I should be able to make this one. It would be good to see some of the usual suspects again. Some new faces would be fun too. and more

I love the REI One Gloves. They are prety cheap when they are on sale (around $20). They aren't waterproof, but will keep your hands plenty warm for spring/summer/fall snow climbing. They also dry really fast. REI One Glove

effin' weather forcasts. I'm trying to decide if I should make the trek. It sounds like there will be a lot of people in L-worth regardless. Could make for an interesting night at Uncle Uli's (or wherever) if it rains.

I skipped ahead a few pages; maybe I'll read all this crap later, but... Anyone wanna take an aid climbing newbie for a three-day weekend trip up Outerspace. We could bring lots of haul bags, a ghetto blaster, portaledges, a hammer and pitons, and camp out for a while. It might make sense to fix a pitch or two also. Does Friday, Saturday, Sunday sound good? punks

Okay

Any Seattle folk heading to this?

I've taken a few longish falls on slabs and they don't have to be too bad, but there are definitely a few things to keep in mind. A typical fall on slab occurs when your feet start to slip. Sometimes you will slip a few feet and then stop. If you keep falling you can slid for about 10 ft on your toes and fingertips until things get too hot. I've almost burned my fingers sliding down a slab. Ouch! At this point you are still falling relatively slowly. Next comes the backwards run during which you pick up a lot more downward speed. About 15' of this and it's hard to keep up. This is when you really want the rope to start coming tight. Avoid tumbling at all costs. Trying to turn around and run is a good idea. Hopefully your belayer has taken in as much slack as possible at this point. Good belaying is a must for minimizing the road-rash of a long slab climb. Lots of good points in the above posts. Magic Carpet Ride is a project of mine for this summer. There's a photo of someone on it in the latest Climbing or Rock and Ice mag. I think he's on the .11a pitch. I haven't been on the route for two years. The last time I tried the route I couldn't get past the second pitch. I took a long zinger, then climbed a little further up the route. I basically ended up moving an existing bail biner up one more bolt. Awesome rock formation though. I've often wondered if I could borrow a full leather motorcylce suit complete with slider pucks on the knees for hard slab climbing. That might take some of the edge off those long slab falls.

Ramuta's Dropped off shoes on Tuesday and picked up another fine resole on Thursday!

-Full North Ridge of Stuart -Something in the Pickets -Various routes at Index

I mailed my check yesterday. What's the curent status of this project? And if you haven't already, send in your kindly donation.

Phukin' Aye. Way to get after it!

Climb: Lillooet-Various routes Date of Climb: 1/15/2005 Trip Report: Thump, thump… thump, thump… Yeah, it’s chestbeating, and the TR really isn’t that interesting, but Jesse and I had an all-star three day weekend at Lillooet. In brief: Day 1: Carl’s Burg, The Tube Day 2: Three Ring Circus Day 3: Tres Burly (sans last pitch) In full: The three day weekend in Lillooet began with the usual late night drive arriving at the Mile-O around 12:30 AM in –16F temps. Damn that’s cold. Day one - The original plan was to climb the Loose Lady. In the morning we bump into a few other Seattle climbers, chat for a bit, and find out that they were also planning on climbing the Loose Lady. Breakfast at the Reynolds introduced us to a few more Seattle climbers who also were headed for the Loose Lady. WTF? Is every yahoo in Lillooet gunning for the same route? Jesse and I bag that plan and decide to drive down the Duffey and find something else to climb. We see Carl’s Burg. It’s impressive. “Hey Jesse, why don’t we just go boulder around at the base, see what it’s like up close. Yeah let’s bring the rack and rope.” As we lace up our boots we throw Skinny Puppy in the stereo. There’s nothing like some 1980’s dark electronica to fuel the day. Twight would be proud; at least in our music selection. On the approach we keep saying to each other that the climb is looking shorter and less steep. At the base Jesse asks the looming question, “So what’s the civil way to decide who gets to lead the pitch?” I respond, “Well, seeing as how you have already had a climbing trip to Banff this season and I have not climbed any ice this season it is only fitting that I should lead the pitch.” No arguments from Jesse. Fuck yeah; it’s all mine! 55 meters, a handful of screws, and two tired arms later I arrive at the belay. That pitch really wasn’t short! From the top I notice a seep coming out of the middle of a rock wall down the canyon that looks impressive. After Carl’s Burg there’s still some time to spare so we drive down the road and climb the Tube. The Tube is a fun climb with a steep pumpy start. On the drive Jesse sees the same seep that caught my attention earlier. It’s hard not to notice it. Day two - We head for Three Ring Circus, which looks fat from the road. This climb was super fun. I loose out on the “coin toss” and Jesse gets to lead the first pitch. Bastard! The first pitch involved technical moves and funky mushrooms. This was one of, if not the most, fun pitches of ice I have climbed. After the first pitch there is 65 meters of sustained WI3 for the second pitch. Fun, fun, fun! That night Jesse and I read the description (thanks JayB for the hook-up with the new guidebook) for Tres Burly, the climb we both have been eyeing all weekend. The guide book says that it doesn’t form every year and right now it looks fat! It took all of about 30 seconds for us to scrap our plans for the Loose Lady and turn our guns towards Tres Burly. Day three – We do the approach and I take the approach pitch (Not So Burly), which is a lot of fun. It had a nice steep curtain for the finish. After this approach pitch there is a lot of uphill climbing that finally leads to Tres Burly. Wow, it’s impressive, and the upper pitch does indeed look “gently overhanging” as the guidebook describes. At this point it’s raining and getting pretty warm. The climb is dripping a fair amount of water. We head up the first pitch to a hanging belay. It’s getting warmer, wetter, and later in the day. Some falling ice hits me. Our guns are pretty worked due to three solid days of climbing. We decide to rap off. Our soaking wet bodies appreciate this. We get back to the car around 4:30 drenched. The roads have already become very icy. The drive home will be slow, but we have had an awesome weekend. The drive home entails a long slow drive from Lillooet to north of Boston Bar where we have to wait all night for an accident to be cleared. We both slept surprisingly well in the truck with the seats tilted back. I’m glad we brought the sleeping bags “just in case.” Two other friends of ours stay in a hotel. Our three day weekend turns into four. It was fun hanging out with other Seattle climbers and meeting the large crew of Portland climbers many of which are cc.com regulars. ‘Til the next adventure. Gear Notes: standard ice gear Approach Notes: stay high for the initial traverse for Three ring Circus

I'll be stopping by, but not until around 9-10.

Lone dirtbag climber needs to share ride to Joshua Tree. Leave Thursday PM (Dec. 23rd) return Sunday PM (Jan 2nd).

Glad you guys made it out alright.

Ditto what Jay said. Have fun out there and expect me to crash on your couch at some point.

I agree that it's lame to say that it's too much trouble to vote, but I think it would be a great help to the general public in getting the vote out if Election Day was a national holiday. True, polling stations are in every neighborhood, but many people work an hour away from their neighborhood station, making it inconvienent to actually go to the polls. Absentee ballots are a great answer to this, but I think we can do better.

Due to the extreme importantance of the presidential elections I would like to see a proposal to designate Nov. 2nd a national holiday so the general public can get more involved in politics and make it easier for people to get to the polls to vote. If people did not have to work on election day voter turn-out would increase. Many of us commute an hour on either side of an already long work day leaving little time to go to the polls. Even though the polls are open early and late, having the entire day off would greatly facilitate people's ability to vote. The right to vote is the most fundamental right we have as United States citizens and it seams appropriate that the government should do whatever it can to make voting more accessible to the general public. Thank you for your sincere consideration. ************************************************* I have emailed this so far to Senator Maria Cantwell , Senator Patty Murray, Representative Jim McDermott and both Bush and Cheney. Feel free to do the same.

Fun times this weekend even if it rained a bit on Friday night. Great to see some people that I haven't in a while. Mike, stay away from the joke-telling, it's not your calling.