Paco

And if you don't fear enough you die early. Edited to add snaffle.

Burn it!!!

Awesome! Hope to see you at a few more Pub Clubs, although I won't be able to make it to the next couple. Enjoy a few with the rest of the crew.

Not exactly what the mounties would tell you, but have fun with this one. The Ten Essentials Hey DFA, are you suitably equipped with the ten essentials? Wouldn't want you be unsafe.

I think the red tape route is "in" at the gym, although the route might not stay "in" for too much longer. Shouldn't be too much avy danger given the low elevation and overhanging nature of the wall. There might also be a yellow tape route in primo conditions right now, but you'll have to scope that one out yourself. The red tape route might get crowded now since everyone now knows that this route is "in" so you might want to get a alpine start.

Pretty much, but with Thermogenesis you also have the super high objective danger of the massive ice clifs that loom overhead. So even if you are skiing just fine there's the chance that part of the ice cliff would calve off.

INTJ - The Portrait of a Mastermind ...and I was waiting for the test to tell me I was a porn star

I was up there around a week and a half ago. At that time there was about 4-6 inches of snow on the ground and only a light dusting on the rock peaks. There was minimimal snow in the east face couloir of Cutthroat and no ice higher up. There were some frozed road cut drips along the north facing road cuts near the pass.

Highlights 1) Eldorado via Northwest Couloir (This was by far the highlight for me this year ) 2) Rainier via Emmons Glacier in 24 hours 3) Outerspace 4) Shuksan, ascent via Fisher Chimneys, descent via Sulphide Glacier 5) Lane Peak, all three couloirs last April/May, solo Failures - not making it to the fall rope up - a few failed attempts on Rainier - and a few others that I can't (or choose not to) remember right now Other highlights include meeting a lot of great people with whom I have been able to share the mountains with, and meeting some great people with whom I hope to climb with in the future. For this winter and next season....anything and everything! Have fun and climb safe. -Paco

Dan, It was great to share the climb with you. Glad we could have some fun in the mountains. Thanks. -Paco

The one line route description in the Beckey guide describes the route more closely to what we encountered than the Nelson guide indicated. Beckey says, "There are 6 to 8 pitches with snow and ice climbing ranging from 50 degrees to vertical." I have not seen the report from the 1987 AAJ of the first ascent, but would be interested in reading it. If it is short enough for someone to type up and post here that would be great. Or, if someone was willing to photocopy and either mail or fax me a copy that would be appreciated. Thanks. [ 11-05-2002, 08:53 AM: Message edited by: Paco ]

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: No offense guys, but I have allways been bewildered when experienced climbers lose a crampon on a climb. you hear the stories all the time, but i just don't get it. No offense taken. In fact thanks for posing the question. It made me think about it more last night. If I had lost my crampon lower on the route or while leading one of the steep ice steps I would have been up shits creek. My previous pair of crampons were Grivel 2F's with the toe bail step in bindings. These lock on to my scarpa invernos rock solid, and the strap stays tight. The problem with these crampons is that they ball up ridiculously well. So this season I decided I had enough of that and bought a pair of Charlet Moser super 12's with step in bindings and toe strap (not the steel toe bail). This was actually the second time these crampons came off a boot, but the first time it was while flat footing on low angle styrofoam snow with a soft leather boot. I passed it off thinking that it happened because the boot was pretty flexible. This time it came off my inverno, and I also noticed the other one was loose when I got to the belay! I've noticed that the strap on the Charlet Mosers doesn't stay tight well. I've had to keep tightening it on previous trips. Also, I don't think that my heels were locked in tight enough, although I did a little testing last night and it really doesn't take that much downward pressure on the front points to knock the crampon loose even with the heal locked in super tight. Some sloppy footwork can easily knock the crampon loose. The only thing that keeps these crampons on the toe is the friction between the boot and two front posts (generated by locking the heel part), and the toe strap. I think what happened is that during the climb the strap worked loose and then I knocked the crampon loose while kicking around on the route. I think from here on out I will be using only crampons with the spring steel toe bail with my invernos. I think this style locks onto the boot better and the strap is just there as a back-up as apposed to the toe strap variety where the strap is an integral part of holding the crampon on.

On Sunday Nov. 3, danielpatricksmith and I climbed the Northwest Couloir of Eldorado under beautiful skys. 7 1/2 pitches of snow and ice, with 3 or 4 short (12-15ft) steps of steep ice to keep you honest. The route was longer and more difficult than we had expected given the one line desciption in Nelson's guidebook of a staightforward couloir that steepens to 55-60 degrees at mid-height. Gear: -60m rope: we really stretched some of the pitches to get to good belay stances. I think we would have been SOL with a 50m. Retreat via rappelling would also be difficult with one rope. -4 screws (2 short, 2 medium): not too many screw placements, but did have one solid screw belay -cams: gold, red, green camolots, red alien (very useful) -full set of nuts -set of pitons w/ small angles, knifeblades, and bugaboos -lots of double length runners (we ended up girth hitching a few standard length runners) Notes: - We saw bear tracks on the snow - There were old footprints following the approach route to the couloir, but they faded out in the snow 3/4 the way there. Wondering if others have done this route this season. - The route is a lot more invigorating (and a lot more mixed) when one looses their crampon while following pitch 6. If anyone heads that way and finds a Charlet Moser super 12 crampon along the route or at the base it would be cool if you would retrieve it for me. PM me if you want additional beta, or have found my crampon . Otherwise, go out and have fun, climb safe, and take advantage of this weather. -Paco

Mr. Chips, you are an asshole.

quote: Originally posted by Highlander: Find a good mentor and learn as much as you can from them. Clean lots of routes learning the different gear placements. Start on easy climbs placing lots of pro. I'll second that and add that books help and practice as much as possible at placing gear while on the ground. Starting with easy routes where there are really good stances to place gear from is key for those beginning trad leads.

So I've tried the "Go Grape" flavor of Cytomax and it tastes pretty good, but recently I wanted to try a new flavor. One that did not have the patented "herbal lift." The "herbal lift" really seems to work well for those early alpine starts, helping me wake up and keeping me mentaly focused, but it tends to keep me up if I drink too much at the end of the day. Anyway, I didn't have much of a choice at the store because the only flavor that they had without the "herbal lift" was "Apple Berry." This flavor SUCKS. It tastes like bad medicine. I guess I'll have to live with it for a while since I bought a 4.5 lb keg of it. Anyone tried and of the other flavors? "Peachy Keen" or "Citrus Cooler?"

When I am much older and complain to the doctor about the arthritis in my hands and wrists (which I don't have now, but am sure to get) I'm sure they will tell me it was from all the climbing that I am doing, but in reality it will be from sitting in front of this damn computer for 40+ hours a week. Keyboards, mice, monitors, etc. and WORK all suck. Yet another beautiful day in which I should be outside instead of here at work. If only I worked for the government and had today off.....

quote: Originally posted by tread tramp: A pint of Guiness equals 16 fluid ounces. From that point it is just a matter of simple calculations. Go to England or Ireland and a pint of the dark stuff will equal 20 oz.

quote: Originally posted by Mike McNeill: Paco, I've never been to Holderness School Corner. Where about is it? I'd love to check it out someday. Yes, the Whitney-Gilman Ridge on Cannon cliffs is my goal for next season. One of New Englands classic climbs! I didn't realize that it was bolted? And by all means, if you're ever in the area let me know! Sorry to confuse you. The Whitney-Gilman is a stellar route in Franconia Notch area (very close to where the Black Dyke ice climb forms) and it goes for 5 or so pitches with the hardest at 5.9 I think. I haven't done the route, but a friend of mine has. This route does not have bolts. The Wimpy-Gilman is a bolted, one pitch 5.6 route up an easy arete in Rumney near where the great ice climb Selson Blue forms. The climb Holderness School Corner (5.8 trad crack/dihedral) is very close to the main parking area. Follow the trail out of the back left corner if facing the cliffs. For better info check out the Rumney Guidebook.

Mike, I know that Rumney is predominately sport, but Holderness School Corner is a classic, classic trad crack/dihedral. Give it a go if/when you get the chance. It's a great line. The Whimpy-Gillman is also a fun one! It goes at 5.6 and it's bolted. Lot's of other great routes. Rumney is also a sweet place for ice come winter. Ocasionally I travel back to the Northeast to visit friends and climb rock and/or ice. No plans for anytime soon, but if I'm headed that way I'll try to let you know. -Paco

My $0.02 - Joshua Tree now for rock or Banff come Feb/March for ice. Or you could always go to Smiffy Rox.

What's the best month for ice climbing in Banff? I'm toying with the idea of doing a two to three week trip there this winter (if I can get away from work ) and am looking for some beta. Can anyone recommend a good guidebook for the area?

The beauty of leading trad with half ropes is that the impact force on the gear is reduced and that you can minimize fall potentials. I think that using half ropes is a great way to safely push your trad climbing limits. Place gear, climb up. When the gear is at your waste you can place another piece above you, clip with the other rope, and continue, effectively top roping the climb. Under this situation your fall potential is minimized because you are not really above your last piece, even when you pull up the rope to clip your next piece. You can place the next piece as high above you as you can reach, and not have to worry about taking a big fall when you pull up lots of slack rope to make the next clip. No shame in stitching up a route. Also, there's nothing wrong with placing a piece, clipping it, climbing up so its at your waste/thighs, placing another piece higher up, clipping it, and then removing the lower piece to place later on the climb. Just because a piece is placed once doesn't mean that it can't be taken out and placed higher up. You just want to make sure that you do leave adequate gear for the entire pitch.

I have recently met and climbed with a few of the other fella's who post to this site, and we've had great trips. Looking to meet a few more, especially the ladies of cc.com, but I think that trask has already won their hearts with his outstanding poetry.