Paco

jja, you da MAN!!! Nice work!

I posted a few pics from the weekend in the gallery. Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3

I'm down with doing a weekend in Smith come March. Gotta give pure palms a run for it's money and get spanked some more by zebra seam. And some trad routes too! Distel - what out yo; I'm gettin' stronger!

Cold temps are good, new snow is bad... So what are you folks doing? Staying inside this weekend or venturing out into the mountains? I'm gonna make the call tonight, but the recent forcast is calling for 13-23 inches of new snow from now thru Saturday so it doesn't look too good. Weather Maybe I should get sick early next week.

Nice one guys. Sounds like fun.

I've been out to the area that the article talks about and it really is a mess. I mean crap is everywhere. Spent shells, shot up tv's, broken glass, etc. It's pretty sad that people have trashed the place so much. It would be nice if there was a free public shooting range in the area so people would shoot targets and take care of the place. And if you do go out there to shoot: pick up your shells and trash and try shootin' potatoes instead of glass bottles. Potatoes explode when you hit 'em and biodegrade.

I bet if they got a new drummer he would be twice as good.

Super secret party Saturday night which may entail an unplanned bivy and maybe I'll work on my "proj" at Stone Gardens sunday.

Lillooet weather forcast is calling for rain... I think I'll stay in Seattle this weekend.

Any of you yahoos going up to Lillooet this weekend?

Chicken Terriaky - I was lazy and didn't pack shit for lunch like usual.

Great Job! Congrats.

All season because everyone is gonna wait until someone tells them it's in!

I'll take the bait. The BS with his comment is that he's comparing two different things, trad experience and ability to climb hard. If a person has the ability to climb at 5.13, then they only need to learn how to place gear, etc., which can be learned much faster than someone trying to progress from 5.9 leader to 5.13 leader regardless if it's trad or sport. Plus all you're doing on those el-cap free routes is clippin' fixed gear and pitons anway, so what's it matter!

Yo moderators, can't we do what JayB said. Just edit/delete the bullshit posts and put this back in the N. Cascades forum. There is some good info here. Mattp - you're not trying to take attention away from the West Face of Sloan are you?

repeat of Eve Dearborne Memorial route anyone?

I want to head that way for the week of New Year's. I could leave as early as Saturdy night the 27th and would want to be back for work on Monday the 5th, but I might be able to stay another day. Anyone wanna carpool, or can anyone offer a ride?

Borgeau left is in and fat. We only did the first pitch. WI4-, then it looked like two short pitches of WI2/3 to the final WI5 curtain. Borgeau right looked in, but looked thinner than borgeau left. I'm sure you are aware of the high avy danger of both routes. Conditions from 11/26.

As much as it sucks to have super-secret projects become much talked about objetives, I'm hoping to see some competition and some ambition among local climbers this winter. It would be really cool if the local climbing scene became active this winter and ticked some real gems. Hopefully the new ice climbing guide will provide some motivation for people to explore the cascades. There are surely some sweet objectives still to be plucked. My big objectives for this winter in the cascades include the West Face of Sloan and the North Face of Triumph. The race is on mutha phukers!

Cool. Nice job fellas!

Pilsner is defintely in and it's fat. They way it was formed up a week ago looks more like it does in the photo of Twight climbing it in the front of JoJo's book instead of the classic piller picture in the middle of JoJo's book. I actually hiked up to the base, strapped on all my stuff, and then climbed up to the base of the piller. F'ing intimidating and I decided that I had no business trying to climb this one yet. The climb as of last week would involve about 10m of WI3 to the base of the pillar, 25m of scary steep climbing at WI6 and then a rest on the left with another 5m of WI5 to finish. The crux 25m was slightly overhanging and pretty featured, but not the type of features that would make things easier. I wish I had taken a picture. The column was about 6ft in dimeter, maybe a little more. Anyone wanna gun me up it? It's only one 40m pitch.

Cool. Sounds like you had a good trip.

From www.gravsports.com GOOD NEWS ON HAFNER AND STANELY from Nancy Hansen: Hi gang, I had a meeting with the backcountry manager of Kootenay, Yoho and Lake Louise on Monday, and he told me that Haffner and the Stanley Headwall areas will be open as of December 1. Marble Canyon will remain closed until the spring.

Second the pitch. You'll learn more that way. (i.e. removing screws, watching someone lead, etc.) Also, no one is saying that you can't top rope, they're just saying that if you do be considerate of others: be gentle on the ice, don't create hazards for others (i.e. top-ropping a second pitch), and share the route (i.e. move your top rope to the side when someone wants to lead the climb) Edit: Damn, you guys are quick with the responses today. This post is about 4 posts behind the times. All my points have already been said.