Paco

This is kind of an offshoot from Pandora's random advice thread (which was funny, but nowhere near as good as Michael Layton's Random Beta thread) , but a little more on the serious side. What's the best advice you have ever received, either solicited or not? The best advice about life that I remember is a sign I saw in the locker room trying to get the soccer team pumped up for a championship game. "If you want something you've never had before, you have to do something you've never done before."

So when's addie's "friend" gonna be here?

The reason is because most people on this site are alpine climbers at heart regardless of ability. I can surely appreciate someone doing some very hard technical climbing, but we're only talking about 30 ft of rock. If you want to truely stir the emotions of people on this board you need to post about a sick multi-day and/or mutli-pitch ascent. Search back through the posts about the Hubers on Zodiac or Dean Potter in Patagonia. People were giving them lots of props.

Well, I didn't try Magic Carpet Ride this weekend, but I did get on Local Boys Do Good. It's going to take a little to get used to the shoes, but I think they will do really well. The rubber needed to get a little worn to increase the friction. Also, they don't flex as much fore and aft at the ball of the foot as my moccasyms so they feel different while smearing. They also hurt my toes a little, but what else can I expect from new climbing shoes. I also learned that I smear more than edge. It's a funny feeling when you're "crimping" with all your might just to stay on the rock, and all that "crimping" is with your toes while your hands are palm to the rock just for balance. Anyone wanna head out and try some of the harder slab routes on the Apron or by Shannon Falls? If you won't lead it I will, just catch me when I skid off.

I had a fantastic weekend at Squamish. Saturday was a three-star only day. Sunblessed in the morning, then Klahanie Crack and Local Boys Do Good in the afternoon. I was pretty worn out from Saturday so Sunday was a toprope hero day for me at Burgers and Fries.

I bought a pair of 5.10 Anasazi lace-ups last night. The 5.10 lasts really fit my feet well, the 5.10 rubber is super sticky for smearing, and the sole under the footbed is firmer then the moccasyms so I'll be able to edge a lot better. I think this shoe will rock!!! I'll let y'all know how things go this weekend. I'm planning on hopping on Magic Carpet Ride again, and hopefully getting past the second pitch this time.

Some things never change...the wifebeater will just be hidden beneath the suit Rumr - Electrical

I passed my exam and now I'm liscensed by the state...and, no, not as a sex offender, as a professional engineer. Next up is to ask the boss man for a raise. Cha-ching! (Hopefully)

Stay the weekend fool! I'll be in Squamish Saturday and Sunday. The boss man won't let me out early this Friday.

And to think last fall we had a "relationships suck" thread every two weeks or so.

So what rock climbing shoes do you like for hard multipitch slab climbs? I have used my 5.10 Moccasyms but I think that something else might work better. The 5.10 sticky rubber is nice, but it gets worn out pretty fast on slab climbs, especially when I start sliding/falling down. Maybe something board lasted for added support? Let me know your thoughts. TIA

A few weeks ago I was feeling motivated, but the weather was crap. I don't think conditions would be ideal right now either, but my current fantasy week includes the following: Day 1: North Ridge of Baker, then Coleman Headwall. Maybe do both in one push although I would want it to be on an overcast day so I'm not on the headwall on a sunny afternoon. Day 2: Rest or Coleman Headwall depending on above. Drive over to Shuksan. Day 3: North Face of Shuksan Day 4: Rest Day 5/6: Price Glacier with a jaunt up Nooksack Tower. Bivy near Nooksack Tower. I think this would be a fucking awesome week! Make me feel like a poser and go get it all. All these routes would be new to me so therein lies some of the appeal.

Yeah, Leavenworth or Smith Rocks would probably be your best bet, but I'm going to take my chances in Squamish with a few others. If it rains I'll just eat awesome french toast, drink coffee, and bug thelawgoddess while she works.

I always seem to hop on Thin Fingers when I'm at Index. I've climbed Shuksan via the Sulphide a number of times. It's still one of my favorite routes though.

Shut up cracked. The weather does look lousy for the weekend. Sunny weather up until Friday evening. So where is everyone climbing this weekend? L-Worth seems like the best bet. I suppose stone gardens is always an option.

Thanks

Repeat step a.

Paco's guide for meeting and dating chicks: Remember these two things when you see a female that you are interested in: 1) Who the fuck am I? - i.e. Why would this girl want to date you? The answer is always the same; she's not interested because you are just another bland face in the crowd. 2) It doesn't fucking matter. - Chicks will date even the lamest guys. Remeber the time you saw that smoking hot chick with that totally ugly tool. Yeah, what the hell was she doing with him? Problem is though you'll never get to be that tool. Give up hope, get fueled by your angst; GO CLIMBING! The more angst and self loathing, the bigger, harder, and more audacious the climb. Next up, a single push solo of Infinite Spur... Oh, I remembered a third item: 3) You'll always be wrong - Show up at the first date with some flowers because everyone knows chicks dig flowers. Chicks response "Who the fuck is this desperate asshole showing up with flowers just so he can get in my pants" Date goes poorly. Next time on another date you decide not to bring flowers. What happens? "Who the fuck is this inconsiderate cheap bastard showing up without flowers" Date goes poorly.

Logged some flight time at Smith with a few cc.comers. Watched figger8 collect some frequent flyer miles as well. Beers and bonfire at the grasslands. Good times for sure!

You'll be able to find this gaper at Smith this weekend also. I'll be rolling in, chafeured by ehmmic in the stylin' (in white, not red), sometime late Saturday AM. Distel32, are you heading down this weekend? When are you gonna finish chain? See y'all there.

I'm watching the weather, but I'll probably still make the trip up for the long weekend. I feel the need for some Squamish granite crack goodness. And hell, the french toast at Toaster's is that good!

Cracked, for one minute, step outside your "zone of stupidity" and try to engage your four, count 'em four, neurons in a cooperative effort and visualize the sea of prana sport bra and low cut midriff baring attire that will be parading in front of yourself...then compare this vision of heaven on earth to a comparable nightmare of one of your smellin' like a goat buddies snoring away in a filthy, flea ridden, sopping seeping tent... Understand??? duh

Great TR jja! Sorry you didn't get any climbing in, but it sounds like an interesting weekend none-the-less. Anyway, it was an entertaining read. Thanks.