RuMR

Dr. K ice climbs in scuba gloves...don't know how they'd work for ice since i don't climb ice, but i do dive around here and they work well under Puget Sound...dexterity is decent also...

Not entirely relative...more that for dick-head, 5.11 is sick hard perchance...

Ummm..."Sick hard 5.11 crack climber" doesn't go together unless you happen to be ill w/ the flu, reading a penthouse and then start climbing... I'm not sure what the definition of "sick, hard" crack climbing is, but i don't think 5.11 is in it...maybe its relative though...

Churning is indeed an evolving living route!! BAWAHAHAHAHA Used to be that there was a giganto foot ledge from which to recompose yourself at the sixth bolt while hanging onto a juggo-hold...Chris Schneider broke off the foothold while he and shelly presson were working the route...CS didn't like SP and proceeded to smash said foothold into powder before it could get glued back on. Foothold helped a ton if you were short (like shelly)...route is actually much better now that the thing is gone...replaces a stance w/ a quik shake and then keep on keeping on until the seventh and then ultimate redpoint satisfaction!!! BAWAHHAHAHAHAHA I think the number of fingers crammed into the holds are artificially deepening the pockets and comfortizing them...you almost need a fricken Number-being-Served to get on that route... Check this story out w/ CrazyPolishedNob! I think he was there w/ a group of us when the schnyde lost it...Man, he was a tool!!

I was one of those guys about 18 years ago. Had been climbing for about a month when my partner thought it was time for me to lead something. I had Dru's "part a" down pretty well, being a young buck back then. Wasn't quite there with "part b" yet, though I didn't know that just then. It was a 5.9 at Bridge Buttress in the New River Gorge in WV. It was also my partner's "keen" idea to sell me on the climb as a 5.6, me not yet able to look at it and be able to tell the difference. It's called "sandbagging", and watch out for it, A-gal. As has been said here before, go with someone you trust first. It cost me two - TWO! - 30-footers, back to back, because I had overclimbed my last piece on a layback and futzed around too long on one arm trying to build an anchor with the other one. Not once, but twice! So spend some time with a rack of gear making placements. I walked around campus for two weeks placing gear in any crack I could find between classes. It helped tremendously when I returned and climbed the route cleanly. Luckily I was not hurt in the falls because they were airballs, but the sudden stop DID hurt. Learn how to fall as well. 'nuff said. ...sobo Ha!! I know the route i bet...is it that Layback thing called, "Layback"?? Man, that thing was/is a slippery mofo... What did you think of angel's arete??? Man, that thing was classic...soloed that as an 18 year-old...stupidest thing i had done yet! GAWD I miss the new!!!

Hey...remember when trask was the chickenf'er?? Trask, you raise chickens???????????

Tim, You on for Thursday w/ Frank and Ropegun????

Um...yeah, total force is bigger, total point loading is not bigger...

Its usually found in the front of most area guidebooks, that a party willing to lead or that is actively working for a redpoint has priority over gang-toprope priority. Also, gang-toproping some rock types actually polishes the rock...some guidebooks even ask that you don't gang top rope...guidebooks are not the law, however

I think lead attempts always have priority...might not be worth the battle if, say, the guy weighs 250...

fucking weather sux!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How about a report on Bob Clarke's upcoming 3 peaks in 3 days for a cancer patient?

You are right...i would have felt different w/ those substitutions...that is a fairytale, child kidnappings are real as is molestation and murder...its not funny to anyone who is a parent. I can't even let my kid outside w/o me being present, i'm so freaked...and it seemed like it was making the news once a week for a while this summer and that was the REPORTED shiznet...I swear i'd flip if he told that to me in my presence; having said that, I think he probably just doesn't realize what a nerve he stepped on...

It's true, the fucking subject matter on this piece of shit website is totally ass-fucked! It would offend the fuck out of a fucking sailor, for fuck's sake! Fuckin' clean up the offensive bullshit and lay off the insensitive humor or get the fuck out, you shitbricks!

If you really want them to get crankin', put them on the Vertical teams...some of those kids PULL DOWN HARD!! Regarding Muffy's statement: Full rig is the way to go on smaller folks...they don't have hips and are top heavy... My 3 1/2 year old is smithing it this weekend!!

I'd have to say that all of the above are borderline shitty...but kids? Do you even see the humor in it? WTF is the matter with you if you do?? You have kids? You think its funny? If you do, FUCK YOU... The other issue is most of the "victims" on your list have at least a fighting chance of defending themselves...kids don't, they are dependent on adults entirely...

ahhh, you canucks are just pissed you're still territory status and congress won't approve you as our 51st state!!!

I fully agree with chucK. Nothing funny about it. My vision of the kid was my 4 year old son. I challenge any of you who can't see chucK's point to stand up on a crowded bus and tell that joke for all riders to hear. I doubt any of you have the guts to do it. You're pretty much doing just that when you post such shit on a site like this. I'm w/ scottp and chuck on this...leave kids outta it...Just try explaining that one if it got overheard...and its not even funny to start w/...sick whack-shit...no humor at all, and no fricken' morale behind it either...other than sickos oughta get life sentences...

If you don't mind luggin' it, a 70m is the way to go...The first 20 feet always gets banged up the worst, you just chop that and you'll still have a 60m+ rope...plus, it alleviates a lot of concerns about getting dropped while being lowered...

O fucking great...I'm going to jail!!

Hmmm, I don't know about this advice. 1. I suppose you mean look at feet when placing them? 2. I think there might be too much variability to make such a generalization. My toe/heel plane tends to be perpendicular to higher when climbing.... Also, pointing the toe will often be necessary when makign a reach. And if the heel drops too much, your foot-to-rock contact strength will diminish. I'd say perpendicular or higher. 3. Often true, when driving off of that foot. But again, so much variation. Often you'll want the knee past the foot for maximal drive and for getting all weight on that foot, especially on high-steps. 4. maybe on slab to vert? While on both feet? 5. absolutely. But try it all, and see where it takes you. Sex chococolate: Stupid fuck. Of course this is a generalization! Its just good primary technique to start with. Its not like I made it up, its technique advice I've taken from climbers who climb a hell of a lot stronger than you or me. Dumb ass. He just offered slightly different opinions...sheesh...lighten up

Simple enough mistake trusting the guy...Who's mistake though? HERS...so the guy is an idiot, so what?? She trusted him, he didn't make her do anything...Let's face it, climbing is inherently an activity that has stacks of potential energy to really fuck your shit up if things go wrong...totally sux for her, but still her responsibility...You will not convince me otherwise. I don't climb with anyone w/o doing an "assesment"...and i hope new partners do the same thing w/ me...its MY bizness and MY ass... The only climbing scenario that i could see, is a guide-client or school-student relationship. Then you are contracting for a certain skill set, judgement, and care.

You can't be serious???? A climbing partner? Whatever happened to making an assesment of the person you're climbing w/? Whatever happened to personal accountability? That is why this place is soooo fricken litigatious (spelling) and why insurance is sooo damn high... The best thing about climbing is its you and someone you trust to everything to cover your own ass and not being beholden to some goddamned rule...otherwise, what's the point of an adventure?????? It wouldn't really be one w/o some judgement of risk vs. payoff...you choose the risk (ie, clip bolts, minimal...or solo, maximum) and the payoff is determined by you... This is not a highway system where you have mass folks doing it (at least not yet)...

So if you drop 10 to 15, what'll your body fat precentage be? Just curious.... That's a good point...I can usually tell if i go to low, cuz my benching falls off--> time to gain weight... This weight is coming off matter of factly...its not cuz of diet...wife wants to run a marathon, so I'm joining her for the long runs...just have to watch the knees

Yah, but you lose "haul" muscles in your back and forearms...not the kinda weight I want to lose...