RuMR

Damn dude...how are you doing???? How did it go????

Caveat to Cinead bouldering V10's so quickly is she wound up having to have her shoulder redone surgically this fall and is still recovering... Erik is now on team kayland for ice climbing!! HA HA HA and who says sport climbing doesn't help in other disciplines???

It isn't just the board workouts...there's a whole bunch of stuff on route selection and training... Cinead K. climbed w/ them (the Lamberti's) last summer in italy...she's now bouldered V10 and onsighting 5.12's...

HA HA HA...that's why I used three "!!!'s "...to protect copyright...

You seem open minded... what do you think of this? Check this for training I've got some inside information from the evil doctor K...

and, if you are serious and willing to lay down some $$$...this guy's a real bad a$$ http://www.jollypower.com/jollyhomeI.htm

http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/neilgresham/ng_boulderingforstrength.htm

You'll be busting out 5.12's soon enuff!!!

Lifting weights is the best way to pick up actual muscular strength...there are studies now that actually show its more effective in reducing body fat than cardio training alone as well. It should be noted that a reduction in body fat doesn't necessarily mean a reduction in overall weight though. Personally, i'd rather be at the "right" weight than an exceedingly light weight. I find i don't get sick as often and sleep better as well...To me, lean body mass is more important than the weight on the scale...plus, i'm getting old, so metabolism is slowing down and the way to counteract that is to pack on muscle mass...I'm still a small guy though, due to a light build... It never ever hurts to be strong. Plus, climbing trashes your fingers quickly, much more quickly than "heavier" muscles like shoulders, chest and upper back. The net result of climbing only is your grip is giving out before you've sufficiently worked the entire machine!! These are my thoughts...but, as everyone knows, everybody has their own training philosophies and mine are tailored due to the fact that i have limited time (job, spouse, kids, other fun) to actually go rockclimbing and I'm trying to achieve general fitness as well as climbing fitness...The good doctor amazing's recommendation for a little bit of running is a good idea on "down" days as well... Plus...and this is why i'm beating on my wife to do resistance training...for women, its been shown that resistance training (weights) slows and helps to prevent osteoporosis...

Hey Tex/JK... A good rule of thumb (for me) is to only stay at a rest long enough until your breathing is normal, any longer and you'll start taxing muscles instead of resting them...I've found a quick shake in between each movements works well, and even micro-shifts of your fingers to relieve some stress there too (you know, trying to find a slight pinch for your thumb to help your forearms a bit) The other thing, try to absolutely sprint through hard sections and then camp at bigger holds. A british climber summed up this philosophy by saying "Holds are your enemy and the anchor is your friend! I don't like to spend time w/ my enemy!" Another way to get better endurance is to get your power base up (I sound like a broken record). Moffat once said "Endurance routes only get easier with time, a hard power move is a hard power move. If you are weak, you'll fall off before you have anything to endure!" or something to that effect.

Another definition would be 3.) Anything where you fall off and hit nothing but air (I guess that would be a non-slab) Or. Anything Pope and Dwayner are climbing (just kidding, I think)...

No...this comes from my old stomping grounds at the New River Gorge... Slab route: 1.) A route that doesn't require your stomach to hold your feet on. 2.) A route where your feet are always below your hands and head

So...since the great doctor is an avowed steep climbing sport enthusiast...I'm wondering if he knows the definition of a slab route?

Hey JK... Did you read my last post? I think that'll explain why i was only half joking when i said "pull harder"...

Hey... This is gonna sound really odd if you are unfamiliar w/ it, but the best thing I've seen for footwork is to really really strengthen your core. By this, I mean your obliques, diaphragm and lower back (think front levers, etc). It really really helps to hold your feet ON the wall, so you can then push DOWN on them and relieve pressure on your hands. This really comes into play on just over vert. to really steep. Also, I don't know if you have a completely blown pair of slippers that have stretched too big, but if you do, try to workout really technical footwork intensive problems w/ them on. This will force you to place your foot on the hold and then hold on w/ BODY TENSION. Then, when you go outside, put your edging shoes on (think fresh pair of anazasis) and you'll be amazed at what little nubbins feel like...totally secure stances that you can order a pizza from and figure out the next sequence. This will really help in the slab to just steeper than vertical realm. Also, contrary to Eric Horst's recommendations, you should invest some time on a significantly harder (but not impossible) project that will FORCE you to develop new strengths/techniques. Treat it as a classroom type of idea. The route should require significant effort just to figure out the moves not to mention linking them. But, be sure to mix it up w/ easier climbing so as not to become a project only climber. All of this will also help w/ crack climbing...you'll go down to the valley and be able to stand on dimes as well as mash your foot into a crack... PS: Muffy will dig the 6 pack abs from all of the core work...

Ha ha ha... Nickname for chalk is "WHITE COURAGE"...

Footwork is the easiest to correct!! Just pull harder!!

You sound like Polish Bob!!

That would be reinforced as opposed to glued on...

are you talking about Churning or 5 ez pieces? I don't know adam, so i'm not going to comment on 5 ez pieces, plus i haven't climbed on it... Churning was put up by Chris Grover and Sean Olmstead as an experiment in the early stages of smith sport climbing. Many of the lines in aggro gulley were cleaned and bolted and climbed by Sean...

I think adam g from Eugene put up the line???

No...there are 3 modified or created holds...the rest are natural...Why are you looking for chipped holds anyway?

I have no idea what the rating is...i've heard everything from .12c to .13a...A's a chipper that drills for his finger size, so if you got small fingers it might be ezier... It just looks like a cool line from the ground...

See my response in your main post!

No...no one was interested in going up there w/ me... You interested? I'll bring the diapers!! I definitely want to see what's up there...nice cold dry day, my guess it would rock!!