iain

I used to post a TON on here and still not even close to half the spray and that's not considering the quiver of avatars. a MACHINE

Meanwhile, in Oregon

wow that sounds like a megathon. I remember having fun on the actual route though. It was still a long day (got back to car at midnight) even on route. Your red dotted line shows you going up the left skyline but I think the typical line is up the middle, then traverse over right to the right side. At least that's how we did it. You should have tried that monstrous offwidth at the top to complete the epic.

Some body armor and a parasail might be more appropriate. This route is so much more fun, more safe, more of everything that is good when it is covered with snow and cold. I do not understand why people are drawn to this pile in August. That said, people still go up there, slip around on some vertical bb's and pull down on stacked graham crackers for a few hours, and have a good time w/o killing themselves. But why?

The Mythos cycle is fun. A new pair is great as a thin sporty climb shoe when agonizingly tight. They stretch out a bit and enter a sweet spot period for a few weeks where they are really comfortable and work well on anything. Then finally they become roomy, the wear-all-day shoe, but still perform great. I've no idea why they cost as much as LS' latest designs though. Seem a bit overpriced at retail for a shoe that has been around since the late 80's or so.

I'm not sure. I just assumed cast iron frying pan material knowing those burly early folks. I know someone was going around tossing them off of summits in the central OR cascades back in the 70's/80's. I think only the Mt. Jefferson one remains. I seem to remember one on Stuart too, and I'm sure lots of other summits in WA still.

the best are the guys who carve 420 into the actual toilet seat. dedication!

I remember turning the corner onto that final snow arete on NB Fury being a big release, knowing it's a waltz to the top. Even better is kicking back at Luna Col with both picket ranges at your feet at the end of the day. One of the most powerful places I've been in the NW mountains, in my limited experience. Great report, a nice distraction for the day, thanks. I miss it! For those who have not been to Luna Col, it's a place you need to go at least once in your life.

you could fry up some good eggs and stuff on that cast iron mazama model.

I detected a hint of fall in the morning today. The air was cool, the light was a little lower-angle than usual, and the start of the bike commute was a little colder than it has been. Makes me dream of dynafits mwahaha

Yeah they're pretty much permanent residents until it starts frosting at night. If I remember right they really start to kick in after White Branch, but it has been awhile since I was in the area. A head net is a nice option. I think they just sit on the trees and wait for you. There, now you won't have any bugs because I predicted you will.

how about the random can of wd-40 dropped into the campfire as every dives for cover? always a nice way to end the day.

I learned a lot from the boy scouts. I was in a group that didn't give a damn about the community service stuff or anything else except camping and hiking. I loved it. I learned a ton because we screwed up virtually every time. Spent nights out in Oregon coast range rain storms, in jeans, and then it starts snowing all night. We took tents out that just collapsed under overnight snowfall, waking up suffocating and laughing. I burned myself, cut myself, shot things, almost drowned several times, and overall had a blast. I gained an appreciation for polypro (but never under shorts) and how to insulate myself from the ground after freezing my ass off repeatedly. I learned to shut up and hike instead of bitching about things. In summary, the boy scouts is a great learning experience if you don't die in the process. I'm a better outdoor person for it. It was particularly fun to pick on the other groups who came to the jamborees who were all religious and regimented and stuff. Man those cats had a hard time. I've no idea what it's like today though.

Thanks for all the fun times Katie, we miss you. There are some inaccuracies in the media. For an essentially definitive report of what happened, you can go to: http://www.i-world.net/oma/news/accidents/2005-07-23-3fj.html

Apparently the mosquitoes in the Obsidian area are dropped in from another world. Our mere earth-based repellents are useless. Something like a bomb squad outfit might work. Those are weapons-grade mosquitoes.

of course you could end up hauling all that crap up there, not use it, and I'll look like a total a-hole. I remember a tri-cam or two was used to cross the impasse, and maybe a nut was placed at one point.

I'd bring some small light gear like a few nuts, tricams, or hexes just in case. Especially if you plan to go over the imperfect impasse, which is considerably more complicated than the top of challenger. I think it's a good plan to not rely on fixed stuff being there. Those pitons have been there for years but who knows. If it is damp or whatever you might want some more gear in, or on the simul climbing traverse over there. I don't know how much experience you have. I'm not sure if a 30m would get you down if you rap.

Mr. Caldwell mispells his name Ian. Any real scotsman keeps the extra i in there. Funny that you drive all the way down for a day at the shit pile. It must be really shitty up there.

Your use of "we" describes a broad spectrum of personalities. I don't think climbers necessarily have inflated egos. You hear from those who do more often than from those who don't, which contributes to a misconception.

I thought you were in it for the livestock

Whether chestbeating or not, I'll take any info that helps get my friends off the mountain and safe. Nice climbing Marcus and nolse and thanks for the help. We are all in this together and need to look out for each other.

thanks for the help guys. amid all the spray this site is a great resource sometimes.

Thanks, appreciated.