iain

apparently 77 in a 55. I'd say it was more like 70 But if the reference point is moving, my apparent closing speed on the radar gun would change. Maybe I don't understand how they work but it seems like a basic SAT problem.

I got a nice $200ish speeding ticket courtesy of Jefferson County today. It seems the cop car was driving in the opposite direction in a group of cars and radared my speed while he was moving. How does this work? Does the radar somehow know the speed of the cop car to figure out my closing speed? I'll probably just cut my losses and pay rather than hauling myself out to Madras for a court date.

yeah crack of doom is an incredible line. I wish I had business being on it. I also want to give Redtail a go. Pretty outstanding sporto line.

Man, the list goes on...The Drilling Fields, Skyline, Tribal Boundaries, Raindance, Intruding Dike, Carol's Crack, Swiss Cheese, Delay of Game, City Girls, and so on... Probably the typical tourist circuit for first-timers. I really like the casual and laidback atmosphere. The run-out slabs...not so much.

Just got back from here. Bingham's guide helped out this newbie to the area with few surprises. Some of those routes push the definition of 60m though. Bloody Fingers comes to mind. Spectacular place, but I've never done so much sport climbing with double ropes and trad gear!

...awaiting the free body diagrams taking into account friction etc and every possible hypothetical situation Just belay off the anchors and keep your life simple, knowing it works well. If the anchor is sketchy, well, sucks to be you! Keep the gear stuff simple so you can focus on the fun of climbing, and safely at that

A second tool is really up to the climber. The West Crater Rim is not very steep, so if you have at least some skill with your axe as a self belay, a single axe is definitely adequate for the route. In fact, a single tool is adequate for most routes on Hood if your skills and your partner are sound. Remember it is self belay that is the most important skill, not self arrest. If you are essentially "guiding" your partner up and he/she does not have much experience, a second tool might be a wise choice to always have a belay in place should your "client" slip. It can look silly on a moderate route, but it is a good precaution if your partner is sketching. Also watch out for crevasses creeping up near the "standard route" as you leave the climber's trail above Palmer. At least one person has glissaded into one this year so far, in broad daylight. He required help to get out.

You could also just belay off the anchor completely. Less force on the pieces if someone falls, and you can get out of the situation easily if there is a problem. An autolocking device makes this easier.

Good to see you still remember how to ski down hood! Downclimbing? Sylvain would be disappointed.

No one actually owns Tricams. They are donated and acquired at random in the hills. It's kind of like that yellow bike program in the Netherlands. There is a large communal pool of red and pinks in the picket range alone.

isn't this exactly what i said??? And I am agreeing with you. I apologize if you are offended by that. Just adding that the new one seems different than the old one.

Relax guys, it's summer.

The new Mythos seems considerably stiffer than the old Mythos does. I think they are more comfortable than the Miuras, but the Miuras are really nice for Smith-style face stuff. Both do very well in cracks, but for a do-it-all type of thing I say the Mythos is nice. Especially for longer routes. I took a pair of new Miuras up the N. Ridge of Stuart if you can believe that. It was all I had. Agony. There is that magical week where your Mythos fit really comfortably but are not too loose, after several days of pure agony, followed by years of looseness.

I saw that cancellation of the Polallie-Cooper. Congratulations, I know you and crag had a big part in that.

nice remote sensing. Looks like it's a go!

poor hal.

Yeah! Finally. What is with all the telemarkers though. And portland was worried about west nile virus...

Now I see you were just linking the thumbnails:

Would it still be a fun ski? You need to enclose your images with , and you only need one set around each image link. I was going to post them for you, but the images in the gallery are huge.

I ended up ordering one of these: I haven't seen it for retail anywhere for some reason, nor is it on Ushba's site.

Wow, totally suspect. No feedback, no other sales. Would be good to get a photo of the SN or dealer sticker on the seat tube. I like to put a piece of paper in the head tube that says "this bike is stolen. call this number."

Matt, I would be surprised if they had any cord down in repairs. I went to REI recently and they were out of webbing. The options in the sandal dept, however, remained mind-boggling.

I've found it best not to skimp on materials with the snow anchors and use patches of cordura. No matter how careful I am, I seem to trash the material as I unbury them, since it's usually work-hardened snow and I have to chop a bit. My megamid has a lot of damage around the edge from this. Maybe I should be more careful, but it's hard to be careful after a few days out there.

Thanks for the info shapp. The deputy in charge for the sheriff will view these things from a calculating risk management stance. He is the one responsible for the safety of those involved, and he will take the fire if the dept is considered negligent when it comes to safety of those he assigns to rescue somebody. I am not suggesting it was the right decision, but simply stating how the decision is made. It does appear cold and calculating w/o being there. It is also easier to make when you are not looking down on a wimpering dog. I have no knowledge of the ability of the high angle teams available in that area, but it sounded like a fairly straightforward pick (apart from the raging beast down below). Sometimes a network of friends is the best thing to have. It's how the mountain rescue association came into being in the first place.

There have been 4 dog rescues on Mt. Hood in the past year. If I remember correctly, all 4 also involved rescuing the dog owners who were trying to rescue the dogs. Interestingly, they were all in the same location.