Bill I hate to disagree, but I think the ratings at Beacon are fair. They feel a little hard at first, but once you are used to it, they seem to make sense to me. There are a few notable "testpieces" for a few grades to be sure. You can count on multiple moves at the grade, rather than one move wonders (like say, a good number of sporto routes at Smith), so you have to keep your head together for longer.