iain

Sadly it is not different. That bill was a knee-jerk reaction where the Oregon legislature felt the had to do "something". If you do not carry a cellphone or MLU (on Mt. Hood only), you could conceivably be considered liable for charges. In practice, this is highly unlikely, though it is there in the law. Portland Mountain Rescue and the MRA put out a statement after similar cries for billing climbers arose when a helicopter crashed on Mt. Hood a few years ago. Here was their public statement: http://www.pmru.org/common/opsstatement.html

yer mom

she? she? That's a man, baby.

did the guy who killed Trotsky get caught or did he turn himself in (self arrest)

you know you love it

actually they are. stress is force per unit area, usually measured in pascals 1 Pa = 1x10^-5 kgm^-1s^-2

there was a lengthy thread about climbing as a parent about three years ago if you want to dig that up.

in structural geology: stress = force applied to a material strain = magnitude of displacement of material

Yeah I wasn't sure if I should have admitted I was speeding, but I did apologize, and when he gave me the option to make up some story about it being an emergency, I admitted that I could not say it was. So much for that strategy. It does seem like you can be well over the speed limit on the freeway before the state patrol will pull you over, but this was the local county. I guess in the end I was speeding and should just suck it up, but hwy 97 could do with 65mph through there.

Thanks NOLSe I assumed as much about the detector, plus some are about the price of a ticket. I'd assume the police keep a pretty good eye on what your hands are doing as you are pulled over. I would bet flashing some volunteer cards could also work the other way if you were too obvious about it. Sucks to just give away money. I wonder how thw radar system works when there are cars in front of the police car with the radar. I would think the radar would also pick up the cars in front of it (there were several) when it tried to calculate the cop car's speed if it reflects off the road in front of it. This would produce an erroneous (higher) reading on my speed. I assume these things work based on Doppler, and are not pin-point accurate. Grasping at straws here, but all I want is reasonable doubt. I didn't think it would get me anywhere to quiz the cop on these points so I was just polite and took it. It would probably just make me look like a jackass and he'd increase the bill.

shit you're right I guess I'll consider myself lucky.

I have been witness to a lady eating a bowl of cereal while driving down Broadway in Portland.

Thanks for the info. Probably not worth my time to head out to Madras, so I will just pay it. I would guess a rural county like that would have the time to bring in the officer and whomever else they need. I would also bet I don't have much of a home court advantage at a rural court when I have a Portland address. May be time for a radar detector (or maybe I should just slow down). It just stings when I felt I was not creating a dangerous situation with no one around me on a straight road.

apparently 77 in a 55. I'd say it was more like 70 But if the reference point is moving, my apparent closing speed on the radar gun would change. Maybe I don't understand how they work but it seems like a basic SAT problem.

I got a nice $200ish speeding ticket courtesy of Jefferson County today. It seems the cop car was driving in the opposite direction in a group of cars and radared my speed while he was moving. How does this work? Does the radar somehow know the speed of the cop car to figure out my closing speed? I'll probably just cut my losses and pay rather than hauling myself out to Madras for a court date.

yeah crack of doom is an incredible line. I wish I had business being on it. I also want to give Redtail a go. Pretty outstanding sporto line.

Man, the list goes on...The Drilling Fields, Skyline, Tribal Boundaries, Raindance, Intruding Dike, Carol's Crack, Swiss Cheese, Delay of Game, City Girls, and so on... Probably the typical tourist circuit for first-timers. I really like the casual and laidback atmosphere. The run-out slabs...not so much.

Just got back from here. Bingham's guide helped out this newbie to the area with few surprises. Some of those routes push the definition of 60m though. Bloody Fingers comes to mind. Spectacular place, but I've never done so much sport climbing with double ropes and trad gear!

...awaiting the free body diagrams taking into account friction etc and every possible hypothetical situation Just belay off the anchors and keep your life simple, knowing it works well. If the anchor is sketchy, well, sucks to be you! Keep the gear stuff simple so you can focus on the fun of climbing, and safely at that

A second tool is really up to the climber. The West Crater Rim is not very steep, so if you have at least some skill with your axe as a self belay, a single axe is definitely adequate for the route. In fact, a single tool is adequate for most routes on Hood if your skills and your partner are sound. Remember it is self belay that is the most important skill, not self arrest. If you are essentially "guiding" your partner up and he/she does not have much experience, a second tool might be a wise choice to always have a belay in place should your "client" slip. It can look silly on a moderate route, but it is a good precaution if your partner is sketching. Also watch out for crevasses creeping up near the "standard route" as you leave the climber's trail above Palmer. At least one person has glissaded into one this year so far, in broad daylight. He required help to get out.

You could also just belay off the anchor completely. Less force on the pieces if someone falls, and you can get out of the situation easily if there is a problem. An autolocking device makes this easier.

Good to see you still remember how to ski down hood! Downclimbing? Sylvain would be disappointed.

isn't this exactly what i said??? And I am agreeing with you. I apologize if you are offended by that. Just adding that the new one seems different than the old one.

Relax guys, it's summer.

The new Mythos seems considerably stiffer than the old Mythos does. I think they are more comfortable than the Miuras, but the Miuras are really nice for Smith-style face stuff. Both do very well in cracks, but for a do-it-all type of thing I say the Mythos is nice. Especially for longer routes. I took a pair of new Miuras up the N. Ridge of Stuart if you can believe that. It was all I had. Agony. There is that magical week where your Mythos fit really comfortably but are not too loose, after several days of pure agony, followed by years of looseness.