Off_White

I might be wrong, but it seems like the summit area was pretty casual and one could sleep there. You're right though, there is certainly no built bivy corral like at the Forbidden west ridge notch, Stuart north ridge notch, or the summit of Goode, and the area between the wide crack and the summit doesn't offer any kind of cadillac accommodation like that lower bivy ledge.

OMG! Legit? I think the Nodder even has a Mafia Wars team...

Yes, easy to bivy on top, but the bivy ledge a pitch and half above the notch is one of the more sublime places I've slept - big flat ledge, ring side view of the pickets, and even a snow whale on one edge. Of course, after the last couple weeks, there may be no snow there anymore.

Hey CJA, noob or stranger, anyone who wants to talk climbing is more than welcome here. Glad to have you

Sport Climb-bers = the dude in da lizard suit Trad Re-enactors = da cavemen wit da skillz [video:youtube] The future gonna judge you re-enactors as mighty primitive Hey, this is a non spray response delivered with respect to the tradition of the birth of this sacred thread. Please note the resemblance of the guy wrestling the lizard to a young Rheinhold. Totally on topic!

Sorry, as a private individual I can only install such amenities on private property.

Only vaguely congruent, and yet I can't help posting: Before! After! In use! The bed in the upper photo looks pretty sweet, I bet I could get donations for a mattress to place out here somewhere, but it would turn into a Pope & Dwanyer crashpad sort of thing too quickly given the climate...

Keith, I enjoyed meeting you at the spring picnic awhile back, and I'm generally congruent to any old timer climbing parent, but you're full of it in this quote. Go back and re-read the first post of this thread and then tell me with a straight face that this was anything but spray from the moment Don watched that clip from an old Star Trek and thought it was a perfect example of the sport/trad paradigm. Neither PP nor I moved this to spray, but to assert that this thread was any sort of serious discussion attempt is ludicrous. What does Sport vs. Trad mean anyway? I clip bolts, but I also just did an alpine route that offered an average of two dodgy placements per 50 meters. Am I sport or trad? I recently did a friction climbing pitch with one bolt in 100', and in the same week climbed a 5.8 crack where I put in seven cams and nuts in the same distance. Am I sport or trad? Blake Herrington (or a dozen other posters here) clips bolts, but he'll kick your ass, Raindawgs ass, or my ass in onsite alpine adventure climbing. Is Blake sport or trad? From the very title of the thread this is a bogus parsing of the world into us and them, the pure and chosen versus the infidel and unworthy. You think the moderator's respect for plurality has alienated a large sector of the climbing population? Hardly, it's more that the long chain allowed to abusive narrow minded ideologues generates a level of discord that inhibits the average person who considers themselves simply a climber, who engages in a variety of climbing activities, and doesn't want to be made fun of for clipping a bolt, using a bouldering pad, or roping up for some exposed 4th class. The normal, average, non-cc posting climber certainly doesn't consider themselves some silly partisan reenactor in a civil war that was over for most climbers decades ago. Wave your Confederate flag all you want, and make your assertions of inferiority about those gay sport climbing darkies like Blake or myself (does clipping bolts an eighth of the time make one an octaroon?), but the world sees that sort of thing more like a foaming psychotic ranting on the subway than any sort noble sermon. Raindawg's disparaging rants do his cause nothing but disservice, and mostly invite only reaction, not conversation. This thread is no different than scores of others over the years.

That's a damned nice garden Trashtart, the shade is particularly appealing these days. Have a good summer, and post more pictures please.

Whatever it takes to make "them" go away, Bill.

Internet discussions about bolting ethics inevitably devolve into silly posturing about how what I do is real climbing and what you do is despicable. I guess it doesn't always devolve though, sometimes it starts out that way. It's not a conversation and its not a debate, its a reiteration of posture and puffed up egotistical onanism. The way internet users talk about this stuff online bears little relation to the way people discuss things in person. It's not a conversation, it's a sermon predicated on the assumption that I'm right and you're wrong.

Congrats to you and Mary, about damned time, eh?

There's also the quarry pool in the city park in Tenino, guarantee cold enough to chill your core. Tell 'em you live in zip code 98589 and the Tenino School District and you'll get in for 50 cents. Might be worth a dip before doing such great public service. Dom, I have a scrub brush on an extendable painting pole in my shop carport, feel free to use it if you're so inclined.

Pretty damned splendid Blake. Nice blog too.

Of course, I see that now. Its true, on the wet side anything that doesn't get traffic will revert to the primordial moss in fairly short order. Should I move this thread to the Oregon Cascades so you guys will have something besides Mt Hood in there? I've been thinking on suggestions to break out Hood separately from Oregon, and it makes sense to me.

Dawg, I think you're making some erroneous assumptions. Drederek's a good guy, I think his point is that just being alive has an impact, so if you really want to leave no trace you have to change that status. If leaving no trace is your highest value, that observation represents the logical endpoint. I'd be shocked if Bill was actually advocating banning you, I think he was just responding to someone's suggestion with some playful blather and use of some of his stock images. Don't you just hate it when some guy has a fistful of photos he keeps using over and over and over again? Thanks for starting your own thread rather than riding roughshod over someone's TR or question.

Nope, gotta have a permit there, I think it's considered the same area as Boston Basin. The next basin over, Torment Basin, might be a different zone and have different limits. It gets much less traffic, and the approach is decent steep forest. South Ridge, SW Face, NW Ridge, or the rarely done N face of Torment are all accessible from there. You might be able to get to the SE Face via the notch at the start of the S Ridge, but I recall the lower ridge shoulder being steep and scabrous, calling for a sketchy rappel. YMMV.

So? It's public land, innit?

Mad dogs and Englishmen maybe, but I believe even our resident Scotsman has determined it would be ill advised. Expect early evening temperatures in the high 90's. I live here, and I won't be climbing. ::

Hey, I've been there, and his ass is not that tight.

Some cops are public servants, some cops are flaming assholes with power complexes. Just because the president would be ill advised to say so doesn't make it any less true. Porter, I thought your clip would be a joke, but it's a pretty good tutorial on how to handle the latter sort of cop in a traffic stop. Great example of how to stay respectful but not be milquetoast about it. Yes Fairweather, that is the correct spelling.

I assume you have glacier skills? North Ridge of Forbidden, the full rock line rather than the snow bypass, is tough to beat at that grade, a fabulous north cascades tour.

I find it slightly disturbing that you so clearly identify with the Shat-man. [video:youtube]

Are you headed back down to So Cal?

It's just spam Mark...