ivan

sweet weekend, even though i only got to stay for saturday. enjoyed climbing w/ a lurker for the first time, meeting skyclimb and seeing the exotic pandora for all of 10 seconds before launching up moscow. how'd that go, ya'll? i made the last pitch about 65 meters long, and it occured to me towards the end that ya'll were probably totally out of gear. i had nothing big enough for that final wide crack and ended up grunting up it in a deranged religious frenzy

smith rocked this weekend...don't feel like waiting a whole week to climb again. this week's looking pretty dry...anyone free to clamber 'round out at broughton sometime? i can be over around 3-3:30.

i'm 6'7"...so is that just too fuk'n big for the design?

just got a pair of adjustable etriers and an adjustable daisy too. i'd used the type before, but was extremely surprised and confused this weekend when using the new ones. all 3 items failed to hold me in place when the straps were tightened (i'd move the step up, put my weight on it, only to have it slowly pay all the way out). they're really strait-forward, so i don't think i'm using them wrong; 1 connection point to the gear and one to the harness. the strap through the buckle can't be altered from the factory setting it appears, but that's the only thing i can image by screwy. what the hell am i doing wrong? i weigh 230 lbs, but i doubt that's the problem. anyone else use metolious adjustable aiders?

that place rox...we should go there more instead of the r'n'r (least when it ain't raining)

after spending a few nights at cascade pass i gotta agree that seracs seem to fall whenever they feel

"A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools." Douglas Adams

stick to the true cooper spur route, left of his line in the picture and 1 axe is enough (probably would be fine on his route too, but a little training weight never hurts, right?) there's plenty enough space to camp at tie in rock, right at then end of the spur before the angle turns up. the whole spur has flat areas along it so you can camp just about anywhere. enjoy the route. it's the old standard and i've been alone both times i did it. makes emerging onto the summit mall-scene more amusing. looks like clouds and rain this weekend...

looking at the map i found isn't clear...can you access the road to white river campground now or not?

how are from the road to white river campground now?

chix dig you way more if you put all the shiny stuff on the outside!

i know everyone's concerned about mucking 'round w/ the icefall on the kautz, so a reminder of this thread: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/192374/page/11/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1 from last year...there is a safer shortcut involving rappeling/downclimbing on a fixed line/anchor so you can skip part of the traverse under the cliff

nice...that's 2 fuk'n climbs in a row i've been ill on...i think maybe i'm turning into a huge baby lost my voice halfway through the day today...makes being a teacher much more enjoyable; that's when i downshift into jedi mind tricks hoping this weekend works and that my wife somehow forgets its mothers day (isn't this my daughter's problem, after all?) coe icefall or n face it tis i like the variation you took on the spur...the standard way doesn't take advantage of all that exposure

check yer pm's

grooooooovy

i dunno, but i think i've met a few pdx crankheads/climbers

might be reason to camp at illum, taking a full day to practice safety skillz and foregoing a summit if necessary so that everyone has the techniques down. those who get killed on the s side route seem to always be newbies or the victims of newbies (the old flossing the mtn side trick). you might feel like an asshole if you contributed to that...i agree w/ the notion that not being familiar w/ the mtn/route seems very questionable when playing guide.

take a left at the top of the lift towards the prominent saddle formed by illumination rock (that big bumb of the right skyline of hood from portland); fully laden, a big group would probably take more like 45 minutes or so to get there. the camp site is incredible, excellent views down on the reid and its headwall. tempting scrambles on illum rock and castle crags (uphill). also some steep sections (relatively flat traverse though fromt he palmer lift) which could be used for self-arrest practice. the saddle can hold 12 people at least.

4th wedding anniversary. i was, ummm, busy...

gosh, i was i was skiier!!!

where do you pick the trail up this time of year?

so you gonna climb it by yourself if no strangers step forward? partners aren't needed for much more than making conversation and stopping your falls...with the latter taken care of by your apparently perfect technique and the former always in question w/ a total fucking nobody, why sit at home if no one calls? that's my only point... oh, and you can probably fall the full fuk'n way down the coulior and live to see iain making faces at you.

so what was so deeply dirty & disturbing? a) the bruise? b) my face? c) my daughter? timmy, can you tell me? i'm feeling kinda like the chick from the twilight zone who had the failed surgery to make her fit into piggie world

here's the text: ivan, I'm sorry, but the photo you submitted to cascadeclimbers.com, titled "bruises are cool", has been deleted. Some reasons for photo deletions include: -Images that were partially uploaded/incomplete -Broken images -Extremely poor quality/images (impossible to make out the image itself) -Images that did not conform to our published site contribution and usage guidelines such as offensive images If you would like to submit another photo, please return to our photo upload form: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/uploadphoto.php Thanks, The cascadeclimbers.com Team

sorry, the pic ain't there anymore...apparantly the image was "offensive." i'm not certain if that's an insult to me or my daughter.