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Everything posted by ivan
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or that he didn't impale himself on a syringe, a busted beer bottle, a used rubber, a dead hooker, or a jesus freak what a shithole!
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and would that really make it any worse than it already is?
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if they shotcreted all of rocky butte, could we then go ahead and bolt the shit out of it?
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when the zombie apocalypse comes we'll be able to climb year round on the s side and the zombiefied falcons will have to be shot for the good of the world the party ledge will likely have to be expanded to accomodate our zombie-free vestal virgins
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[TR] Mission Improbable: Guye Peak's West Face - Improbable Traverse 2/1/2009
ivan replied to Ade's topic in Alpine Lakes
man, our pix show a much less wintery climb than yours! -
[TR] Mt Hood - Another accident on Hood, but life is good 2/1/2009
ivan replied to dawuda's topic in Oregon Cascades
more commonly i think folks cramponing for thier first time do too much frontpointing - they need time and encouragment to perfect the french technique and generally get into a state where they don't feel like they're burning any one set of muscles too harshly -
[TR] Mission Improbable: Guye Peak's West Face - Improbable Traverse 2/1/2009
ivan replied to Ade's topic in Alpine Lakes
i did that route in a dry winter several years ago - you looked to have more interesting conditions, though the approach pitch we did, which featured only unprotectable verglass on the 3rd/4th class slabs was fucking horrifying - i recall escaping the final rock wall near the summit you mention by making sweet fucky-fucky to a tree - our descent from the summit sucked somethign fierce - there was no boot track to follow and we ended up doing a lot of rapping in the dark good times! -
i imagine you couldn't find your license, eh?
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This is called "French Style" I believe. Well known in the remote regions of the Himalayas. Indeed. Look! If you watch closely, you can see them reverting to their natural state! dude - legions of homeless people should be converging on this location w/ their shopping carts n' bags!
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[TR] Mt. Hood - North Face Gully (Right Hand) 2/1/2009
ivan replied to WageSlave's topic in Oregon Cascades
i should add - we crossed the burg on the far right side and, despite looking a little improbable, it wasn't bad - you even get to hop around on giant ice-blocks wedged in the big slot for a bit! -
[TR] Mt. Hood - North Face Gully (Right Hand) 2/1/2009
ivan replied to WageSlave's topic in Oregon Cascades
nice! full flavor congrats on not epicing! -
wow - my hair is fucking awful in that picture!
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nice - we'll i'd mangled it welll over a bunch of years so your right to booty it causes me no great sadness - glad it wasn't raining death and debris down on you while you were there i can't recall but a handfull of times in my live that i've left gear behind before but holy shit it was an instantenous no-brainer on that occasion! was our bollard of death still obvious above the 'schrund?
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heal up john, and for fuck sakes make sacrifices to buddha or allah or whoever the fuck to turn your luck around, eh? on another note, if you take an aid fall and break your leg, does that immediately get an A3 or above grade?
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i understand it's all just yammering in the breeze, but the falcons get along fine w/ climbers i have no doubt, so long as we don't climb through their nests - so, um, okay, that means big ledge is out. of course i go plenty of other places when the rock is closed, but it's still the best place close in to portland, and i guess i'm just a hopped up goof-ball, but i don't get nearly the same feeling anywhere else (plus, and i hate always whining about money, i can't really afford to regularly be driving to smith or even hood) - for chrissakes, maybe the salmon-negroes had something right? beacon's a pretty magical/religous/praise-gaia-n'-piss-on-her-prom-dress-kinda place, and being able to go down to the main face anytime of year, even just to chill w/ my toddlers around the tunnels, shouldn't require rationalization. blech.
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did you do the right gully? if so, happen to spot my bail picket atop the first crux?
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ummmm.....ummmm....and do you guys know folks that bill, in fact does NOT do drugs?!?
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i had a much higher opinion of the rangers until i got bitch-fucked by them, and you used the word "victim" joe, not me - they may love the park, but as pointed out, closing the trail to prevent poaching is like closing the highways to prevent bankrobberies or speeding and it comes across as needless and petty i have not been uninvolved in making a relationship w/ the rangers joe, nor do i endlessly shit-talk about them - i said above i can grudingly accept a closure - and being angry & bitching about it is therapeutic if nothing else don't you think you, at some level at least, enjoy the maelstrom joe? you post these notices every year and can't have helped but deduce that they're chum to sharks - folks don't really need this website to spread the word about the closure - all the guide-books have it front and center and, as the picture above shows, the park has made it pretty obvious when you pull in (they could put a friendly sign pointing towards the n side as the alternate to soften the "achtung-juden!" feel of the current setup and give folks a semi-realistic option other than poaching or driving back home all pissed off - directions posted at the same place to the ozone could also be a positive) i don't like being angry - i'm not a fool or an idiot - its rational to be vexed though when something you love is taken from you, whatever the reason
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shoulda used my patented call-your-8-month-pregnant-wife-to-come-give-me-a-ride-right-goddamn-now-woman! technique but sounds like you didn't have to go recover snowshoes? or is that a project for another day?
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jesus. fucking. christ. how are these fuckers not the enemy again? where's the good faith? the only goddamn reason they want to close the trails is so they don't have to hike their fucking asses down there to see if anyone's ACTUALLY climbing - resource protection? what a giant crock of shit - the peregines don't give a flying fuck if you're walking around at the base of rock or taking your little kids exploring into the tunnels, both of which are legitimate, enjoyable and non-threatening to the birds i understand and can grudgingly accept the argument for closing the south side to climbing to protect the bird- closing the trail is just mean though, and makes me want to be really mean in return
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Kevbone kevbone = passive or active pro?
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Yeah, the GOOD part. I plan to hit the west/north side routes again soon though. funny, i was planning on putting a giant bolt ladder in
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nice - car shuttle sans snow-shoes?
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...the one having the least amount of fun?
