-
Posts
18027 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by ivan
-
so...ballpark guestimate: when will we be able to (legally) climb at madrone again?
-
i've never seen temps near -10 in the cascades and if it's temp in my pocket anyway, i'm probably dead already, no?
-
mengele's crimes might be forgivable if he used his ill-gotten tecnology to increase the earth's population of elizabeth hurley replicas...
-
yes! like sands through the hourglass, so are the days of our lives!
-
nice! i got my fill yday though - looking forward to checking out your handiwork next season...
-
these things seem to work themselves out just fine
-
[TR] Beacon Rawk - FA/FWA Hibernal Hi-Jinx 5.7C2 1/23/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
bill and kyle played lookout the day we trundled - one of the blocks made it all way to the rail-bed and made a wonderous clanging sound when it struck metal -
[TR] Beacon Rawk - FA/FWA Hibernal Hi-Jinx 5.7C2 1/23/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
they came from above the ledge, about 80 feet up, just past a very old fixed pin that, w/ its ancient runner and rusted biner, marked the mysterious old-timers high point - its easy to see why they turned around - more than a thousand pounds of stone, right above your head and rope, all stacked up so that if one went, they'd all go, and you'd have to aid right through them (or free - it's actually only about 5.7 there, if only any of the holds weren't dangerously portable ) - as it stands,there's still a giant, highly levered block that's critical to topping out (so levered that a #3 fits behind it) but i wailed on it w/ everythng but a pry-bar, and it held my wieght yday, so i reckon it's good enough? -
Trip: Beacon Rawk - FA/FWA Hibernal Hi-Jinx 5.7C2 Date: 1/23/2009 Trip Report: toyed w/ calling it "it takes a village" in reference to the number of folks over a long time that made contributions - maybe should call it "hibernal hijacking" though as ole'geoff seemed like he'd been abducted on occasion anyhow, it's a fine aid-nasty way to finish off to the trail direct from the land of the little people ledge full on winter conditions at beacon this, the end of the first month of the hibernian season - mid 30s, blustery - a cruel wind all day - so sad that we're about to be evicted in favor of the peregins, who were AWOL all day after chipping away at the route over the better part of 2 months, it finally went - we left larry's pin anchor midway, in part 'cuz it was so goddamn windy stopping to try to untie it would have been nuts - the wind had wrapped the slings endlessly around themselves - sure glad i brought the #6 and #5 as the pod is pretty nuts w/o them we approached via right gull - i led the first pitch in boots and it was dry enough i only placed 2 pieces geoff slayed the second pitch, but left me some tidbits for a short third pitch, which ended up being a french fest - i got the last pitch of right gull too, which was a motherfucker in current conditions we made it to the party ledge a bit after 1 - took 2 hours to aid the new line to the anchors - woulda been faster but spent a lot of time fighting the wind, blowing around like a gate on a post recently i'd cleaned these giant blocks on rap - they revealed nice thin cracks fun, icy conditions a few weeks ago not often you get to post-hole on the approach trail at the big b the roof exit from the anchor - up and then right takes you to the gully above the rap anchor down to the lolp ledge geoff cleaning the pitch - don't think he likes jugging thin lines early development Gear Notes: a large hook is the only aid widget required (well, that and 2 thin aid nuts) a #5 & 6 tame the pod (plus give you an reason for actually owning the damn things) X3 yellow, red aliens X2 green aliens, .75, #1, 2 X1 #3, blue alien 1 set of nuts
-
on the contrary, its put down a fine firm ice coating for climbing, and the approach and conditions on the n side at least are fantastic - we just need the wind to stop blowing and for it to cool off again and it'll be safe(er) no consolation here though - this just seems to be a freak occurence
-
[TR] Der Hood-Wand - North Face - Right Gully 1/18/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
nah, i had to ration my one smoke on day 2 - been trying to minimize the suck... -
dunno - i like "hey man nice shot" hella better - perhaps we need a kevbonesque poll? [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF7fRwVZQsE
-
i always thought this the better french rev painting and i don't see any comparisions to marat in the nascent administration
-
filter owes your estate, big time!
-
ouch, how did that happen? that's what i get for climbing w/ non-stoners
-
you soloed the corner today? nice! i've got the new aid route pretty much wired and it'll got quick now (i gotta do it friday or wait till summer) - we could climb something cool to get up there like blownout, then finish via the new sickness - we'd have to scare up a pair of jugs though
-
i won't like it if 8-ball is let go, but i'll deal - afterall, american criminals are let go when the cops don't follow the rules, right? that's why we're supposed to follow the fucking rules, no?
-
Is it just me, or do her tits look like a butt? that's evolution for you - when we started standing up all the time chicks had to evolve something to keep ole'johnny good n' anxious when he was standing in front of her oh wait, what the fuck kinda comment is that in a thread about a chick hocking her ass for her education?
-
Yeah I agree, that was total bullshit. how so? i heard that to mean: we are a pluralistic society that accepts equality for women, all religions, etc - the al queda manifesto against the usa said we had to essentially apologize and renouce those lifestyle choices though.
-
shortly before i fell 120 feet (and somehow didn't die): "i thought YOU brought the rope!?!"
-
hey dave - wanna climb friday? anyone? jeebus - it's my last chance (well, 'cept for next monday i guess...)
-
[TR] Der Hood-Wand - North Face - Right Gully 1/18/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Hmmm, I wonder what's going on in there? i was fixing my cable? -
that's fucking awful - ugh! too early for details of course, but wtf happened? the ss always is getting stone/icefall of some sort, and folks get hit frequently (i certainly have been nailed there b4) - why'd this accident have such a cruel ending?
-
i dunno - somehow i was underwhelmed - maybe it's b/c i watched it 5 times w/ 16 year olds?
