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Everything posted by ivan
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somehow i don't think the ancient greeks had these problems?
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'cuz commies have always had a softspot for friedman?
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slow news is how i figured out i could get 2 knuckles deep into my girlfriends' asshole while she was asleep w/o waking her
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nice moof! we gotta compare ivy burns next week! i got just a couple patches on me, and you had the long pants! so do i get to claim the fa on the variation then? i like my version - who doesn't liek getting to drive iron? next time i think i'll leave 2 kb's in those placements? we gotta go back and clean out the wildlife on that 2nd pitch of pipeline headwall, no? maybe we can find more oak to roll all over us like deranged kittens?
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yeah alex, didn't ya get the memo? washington crags don't start 'till you hit index
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did u link that up ivan? and i even have you to thank for the last part of the linkup pink! for total messed fucked up ballz ta the wall mayhem though the best single route at beacon is the complete stephenwulf - 4 pitches to the trail, III+, 5.9 A2 (canadian rockies trainer?) - the 2 pitches above big ledge are fuckign insane and super-rarely done, any of the lower options to big ledge are just as good: blood, sweat n' smears, flying circus, true grunt you're all about the jam'n on pipeline kev - you done takes fist? the crack to nowhere? dastardly? all kewler in my stupid opinion, though none as cool as 5150 i'll grant ya
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buck, you talking 'bout metolious adjustable etriers? if so, i fucking hate them and will gladly sell them to you stopgo if you want'em - i found the buckle awful vexing - they are light though why are you anti-grigri buck? i've taken a shitload of falls on mine and i use it to jug when cleaning my pitches too so i just need one jug - i guess i don't totally understand the knot solo thing but it sure seems sketchier birdbeaks do rock, especially when you drive'em like pins - i found they work just fine hand-placed though in thin cracks at index like narrow arrow overhang town crier solo is fun, better yet is take a portaledge up and link it w/ green dragon, which i found more funner
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local access => flight time => flying swallow => riverside => walkoff (you can alwasy rap into LOLP if ya wanna socialize)
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don't forget your portable ghetto blaster eh? makes solo-aiding in particuliar a world more entertaining and its not impolite to leave w/ your belayer if you think you'll be trying his patience on a 3 hour pitch mine's the green bitch on left, getting a workout on the chimney pitch of town crier - 9.99$ at best buy beyotch! 2 AA batteries last all day
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[TR] Index Broken Bolt Hangers (Sport Wall) - Calling Wolfgang 8/23/2009
ivan replied to chum's topic in Alpine Lakes
i'm surprised no one's blamed raindawg yet -
you forgot "male"
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is that more or less than a scot's man's sheep's asshole?
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no need for hammer/funkess assumign you're doing clean routes ladders or etriers, no real difference - 2 ladders are cheaper than 4 etriers though hooks in general, there's no huge diffference - i'd get them last - you'll probably be starting on easy routes anyhow hb brass offsets rawk 1 traxion is good for hauling, won't need it for anythign else grigri or something similair is plum necessary for solo-climbing and for jugging (learn the the 1 jug/1 grigri technique!) any species of daisy is kewl, but big, beefy buckled adjustable daises are best fifi hook - i never climb anything w/o one beginner tip: use 2 pair of etriers and prepare to be confused most of the time
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where (not that i'm gonna go free it, mind ya)?
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haven't climbed pipedream since last year but i bet i was the last guy there, so that anchor is 1 shitty bolt and 1 shitty pin i recall, connected via my ratty old emergency prusiks, the whole works protected by an immense blacberry bush that i noted yday has gronw a bit in the intervening 12 months the pipline headwall, on the other hand, has super-nifty new anchors and no shrubbery - the ow pitch above it could be cleaned w/ a pair of shears though and yield a schweeet pitch htough i think, so maybe i have a plan for next weekend?
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if i could do the same and turn this whole thread into a conversation about elizabeth hurley i would
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clear evidence that god is a coke-head
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what are you, a fucking park ranger?
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is it possible to out-cruel terrorists?
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[TR] Index Broken Bolt Hangers (Sport Wall) - Calling Wolfgang 8/23/2009
ivan replied to chum's topic in Alpine Lakes
so what actualy stopped your fall? -
post-script: having done the aformentioned tuesday afternoon, took the original villian himself (moof) out sunday to top out the route - moof, who'd been saving his strength since our valley trip, defty dispatched aided-by-sum while i chain-smoked and head-banged at the base, enjoying the rope recovery operation a crew on free for all endured i re-led the first pitch of pline headwall, whining every bit as much as the previous day, but somehow forgetting to do the cam-hook bit - tried sparing the wasps by not placing a piece in their pocket, but dispatched it w/ a vengeance after they decided to come after me anyway i short-fixed our 3rd pitch while seann cleaned - this pitch could be fuckign awesome if The Brethern wished it - a 5 inch offwidth that upon inspection revealed a right-book side of a thin crack for nut-pro - good feet too - just needs 50 feet of thick-ass-never-been-scrubbed-since-da-dawn-of-tide lichen to make perfect we ended up on the ledge below jensen's rimjob - i selflessly yielded this pitch to moof, who took my sweet ass directions ("pull the roof, enter a funky pressure chamber w/ intensely orange lichen everywhere, then escape via face cracks to the left to a notch in the ridgeline and belay") and ignored them in favor a sweeter, though scarier variation straight up - the beta here is critical: you must stuff something into the finger crack at the roof-top to prevent horrendous ropedrag which threatens to kill the leader and makes the second on cleanign wanna wet his pants, contemplating an 800 foot fall down to the railroad tracks standard poison oak escape off the top - waiting for the flowers to bloom even now on the homeward leg, returned to my humble abode and mixed benadryl w/ a couple quarts of redwine and pizza, taking in the usual sunday fuckey-fuckey shows w/ the little missus - then i woke up and went to work for the first time in 2 months, so i'm feeling a wee bit crabby moof styl'n'on aided-by-sum from jensen's rimjob - a fine place to take in the courting rituals of horny-ass ospreys while trying not to let the avalanche of lichen from above to blind you moof on jensens' rimjob, shortly before finding his own variation to my variation