ivan

buck, you talking 'bout metolious adjustable etriers? if so, i fucking hate them and will gladly sell them to you stopgo if you want'em - i found the buckle awful vexing - they are light though why are you anti-grigri buck? i've taken a shitload of falls on mine and i use it to jug when cleaning my pitches too so i just need one jug - i guess i don't totally understand the knot solo thing but it sure seems sketchier birdbeaks do rock, especially when you drive'em like pins - i found they work just fine hand-placed though in thin cracks at index like narrow arrow overhang town crier solo is fun, better yet is take a portaledge up and link it w/ green dragon, which i found more funner

local access => flight time => flying swallow => riverside => walkoff (you can alwasy rap into LOLP if ya wanna socialize)

don't forget your portable ghetto blaster eh? makes solo-aiding in particuliar a world more entertaining and its not impolite to leave w/ your belayer if you think you'll be trying his patience on a 3 hour pitch mine's the green bitch on left, getting a workout on the chimney pitch of town crier - 9.99$ at best buy beyotch! 2 AA batteries last all day

i'm surprised no one's blamed raindawg yet

you forgot "male"

which is why i was happy to let him go first seriously though, go do this rap!

is that more or less than a scot's man's sheep's asshole?

no need for hammer/funkess assumign you're doing clean routes ladders or etriers, no real difference - 2 ladders are cheaper than 4 etriers though hooks in general, there's no huge diffference - i'd get them last - you'll probably be starting on easy routes anyhow hb brass offsets rawk 1 traxion is good for hauling, won't need it for anythign else grigri or something similair is plum necessary for solo-climbing and for jugging (learn the the 1 jug/1 grigri technique!) any species of daisy is kewl, but big, beefy buckled adjustable daises are best fifi hook - i never climb anything w/o one beginner tip: use 2 pair of etriers and prepare to be confused most of the time

where (not that i'm gonna go free it, mind ya)?

haven't climbed pipedream since last year but i bet i was the last guy there, so that anchor is 1 shitty bolt and 1 shitty pin i recall, connected via my ratty old emergency prusiks, the whole works protected by an immense blacberry bush that i noted yday has gronw a bit in the intervening 12 months the pipline headwall, on the other hand, has super-nifty new anchors and no shrubbery - the ow pitch above it could be cleaned w/ a pair of shears though and yield a schweeet pitch htough i think, so maybe i have a plan for next weekend?

quite the opposite, the winter of aid-climbing to prepare for da valley has yielded the poorest climbs i've yet had of blown out and windsurfer

if i could do the same and turn this whole thread into a conversation about elizabeth hurley i would

i can't imagine anyone freeing pipedream, though i know it's been done - the pro is so thin, the rock so steep and dirty, sheee-it!

clear evidence that god is a coke-head

what are you, a fucking park ranger?

aid.

is it possible to out-cruel terrorists?

so what actualy stopped your fall?

post-script: having done the aformentioned tuesday afternoon, took the original villian himself (moof) out sunday to top out the route - moof, who'd been saving his strength since our valley trip, defty dispatched aided-by-sum while i chain-smoked and head-banged at the base, enjoying the rope recovery operation a crew on free for all endured i re-led the first pitch of pline headwall, whining every bit as much as the previous day, but somehow forgetting to do the cam-hook bit - tried sparing the wasps by not placing a piece in their pocket, but dispatched it w/ a vengeance after they decided to come after me anyway i short-fixed our 3rd pitch while seann cleaned - this pitch could be fuckign awesome if The Brethern wished it - a 5 inch offwidth that upon inspection revealed a right-book side of a thin crack for nut-pro - good feet too - just needs 50 feet of thick-ass-never-been-scrubbed-since-da-dawn-of-tide lichen to make perfect we ended up on the ledge below jensen's rimjob - i selflessly yielded this pitch to moof, who took my sweet ass directions ("pull the roof, enter a funky pressure chamber w/ intensely orange lichen everywhere, then escape via face cracks to the left to a notch in the ridgeline and belay") and ignored them in favor a sweeter, though scarier variation straight up - the beta here is critical: you must stuff something into the finger crack at the roof-top to prevent horrendous ropedrag which threatens to kill the leader and makes the second on cleanign wanna wet his pants, contemplating an 800 foot fall down to the railroad tracks standard poison oak escape off the top - waiting for the flowers to bloom even now on the homeward leg, returned to my humble abode and mixed benadryl w/ a couple quarts of redwine and pizza, taking in the usual sunday fuckey-fuckey shows w/ the little missus - then i woke up and went to work for the first time in 2 months, so i'm feeling a wee bit crabby moof styl'n'on aided-by-sum from jensen's rimjob - a fine place to take in the courting rituals of horny-ass ospreys while trying not to let the avalanche of lichen from above to blind you moof on jensens' rimjob, shortly before finding his own variation to my variation

Trip: bacon rawk - WindSurfer/FFS=>P-line HDW=>Jensen's Rimjob III+A2 Date: 8/24/2009 Trip Report: last September I did the first ascent of pipedream in likely a bazillion years and mentioned that the anchors for the pipeline headwall looked like total shit – moof was w/ me on that epic belay (which we settled up on down on Mideast crisis this spring ) and graciously volunteered to not only fix the anchor, but also the first lead bolt – y-day lost cam Kenny and I set out to check on his handiwork I began by totally sucking on windsurfer – holy fuck! I was a shitty free climber even before I started seriously into the aid thing, but I’ve badly degenerated and found myself whining way, way more than ever before on that particular gem – shit! anyhow, after a sad show, I made it to the top and Kenny opted to jug up rather than show me up smile – round 6 in the post-meridian I set off for the sickness, leaving Kenny w/ my tunebox to pass the time I reckoned I’d be able to finish in far less than the time it took me to do pipedream, which was good, as that would put me at the anchors damn near midnight (we still ended up rapping in the dark) – moof is the man for swapping out the jingus lead bolt, which instilled a tremendous confidence (albeit only for 4 feet) that I’d lacked on pipedream, which shares the first few feet – I used tension to traverse over 3 placemtns before commencing up the crack, which perhaps moof didn’t take (you can stay on pipedream a long ways before swinging over) as he didn’t report using any exotic gear and I needed 2 beak placements gotta love the hornets – while sketching on thin bullshit, I spotted a funky pocket that refused a #2, but accepted a seriously bizarre #1 placement – I noticed an old, seemingly abandoned hornet nest in the back, but upon plugging up the pocket, it began to buzz like yer mama’s favorite double-ended dildo, spitting out pissed off bugs that illustrated that the pocket was in fact just a fractured block with several exit points, likely to spit me off when I began thrashing around to swat the evil fuckers swarming about me – for the rest of the climb, kenny’s job was to alert me when one was actually landing on me (which he did while simultaneously belaying, talking on the phone, smoking, photog’n, and manning the mp3 smile ) the route is que exciting, and blissfully shorter than pipedream – once past the first 1/3 which involves stupid thin gear and terrible anxiety, it gives way to a antique via ferrata mixed in w/ more exciting gear (not that half of the pins are real reliable – 1 in particular looks homemade, 50 years old, and has recently shed half the rock that once held it in place! smile ) – moof still hasn’t swapped out the 2nd lead bolt, but it’s not critical to the pipeline crack the last half of the climb would be classic if more folks will get on it – a 5.7ish scoop leads through intense exposure and lichen-crusted rock, complete w/ ancient vegetation garbage and broiling antmounds to a wide finish crack to the anchor – there’s a blackberry bush that threatens to take over, but maybe moof cut into it last winter? the new anchors are superb and would be an even better locale than ground zero to enjoy a portaledge evening – better yet is the next pitch! 60 feet of 5” crack leads to you to jensen's rimjob and the trail walkoff for the complete experience – I’ve no idea if it’s been done before – the Olson writeup for the route is a joke (no description at all and pro to 2”?!? the 5.11 rating also seems insane) – but i’m looking forward to going back and finishing the whole mealdeal (which mean’s carrying 2 #4-5’s and a #6) for anyone still reading, here’s the most important bit – the rap off moof’s new anchors is fucking incredible and by itself justifies climbign the route! don’t know how he misstated it (wait – well, he is a laconic fucker I reckon) but the double rope 60 meter rap to the ground boggles the mind and is by far the kewlest rap to be found at beacon – 35 meters down you pass the arena of terror and the wall suddenly shoots away, leaving you dangling in space, 50 feet away from the rock w/ a looong way still to go – as we did this in the dark, the experience was greatly enhanced anyhow in closing, thanks to moof for the cleanup and revivification and for the love of jeebus, would somebody help us keep these bitches in shape? they are spectacular practice routes for the valley and are plenty fun in their own right. now for the climbing pron: the royal we approaching pipeline headwall belay via windsurfer where in da fuck? standing on a hundred year old pin who doesn't like nailing from a shaky stance, surronded by pissed off wasps, just one blue alien away from a big'ole pendulum fall into a pillar? well up the pipeline headwall kenny, upon getting his first-ever instructions on how to lower out to follow an aid-pitch Gear Notes: gear: 1 cam hook (no other hooks necessary) 1 birdpeak (used twice – shortest kb’s would work too, especially if you wanna fix’em to complement the iron above) double set of nuts – offsets useful – didn’t use any micro-nuts X2 blue to green aliens X2 #3 camalots (need them for the top) X3 yellow aliens, .5, .75, #1, #2 if you wanna top out (highly! recommended) – 2 #4,#5, 1 #6 (or leave the #6 and 1 of the #5s and finish via jensens ridge instead of rimjob)

he's just sore i sent him up the "character-building" pitch

but none of them are as bad as being a nihilist

a # of those old smc hangers abide at beacon - they all look sketchy as phuck and sometime very soon will be just as lethal (especially the ones on the norseman's head!)

y-day at the big B moof on aided-by-sum, heading towards the pipeline headwall (behind branch at left) moof jugging up the 2nd pipeline headwall pitch (holy fawk! amazing 5.8 climb here if anyone wants to help me remove 3 inches of giant lichen farms that are growing here - 5" offwidth, but w/ a thin crack in dihedral next to it and great feet, just needs to be cleaned! (the a2 pitch below it might scare off the crowds though) - pic taken from the ledge just beside jensens ridge, at the base of jensen's rimjob moof on jensens' rimjob, shortly before finding his own variation to my variation

what have i done stuck my dick in? [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voER1Q9Tlzk