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Everything posted by ivan
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yeah, that sounds like the 2nd pitch - it ends at the optional belay below the 2 pins (the short 10ish section) on right gull.
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[TR] Menage-a-Twat - Da Turkey Monsta & Da Bridge 10/11/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
what i like 'bout the menage-a-trois is that each spire pretty much involves bombing strait down an out-of-control steep brushy hill-fuck sorta thing, then desperately clawing right the hell back out of it when done - the old overgrown road obviously marking the end of the upwards thrutch-fuck takes the tension out of it - yer climb, get high as georgia-pine then stumble back to the rawk-w-yer-cawk out park'n'lot scene! -
[TR] Yosemite Wide Tour - A Bust - Short Version - 10/8/2009
ivan replied to Plaidman's topic in California
"the less a man makes declarative statements, the less apt he is to look foolish in hindsight" -
the way you know this wasn't a bush conspiracy is that it actually worked the defense industry owned the country before 9/11 anyhow, it's not like they needed a new line of bullshit to keep the shekels flying their way.
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plenty of clean aid out at beacon, even in the rain - the only routes i've needed hammers on are fresh squeeze and the pipeline headwall - the village route off the ledge goes clean, having a big piece in the #4-6 range is good (a #4 alone will do) - i usually bring a single hook, but my boy mike did it w/o one - the route will top out, but i still havne't done it - looks like a 1/4 pitch or so from my new anchors to near the rap tree on uprising village goes as c2 i reckon - good fun - would be a little wierd to solo as it's a long traverse
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[TR] Menage-a-Twat - Da Turkey Monsta & Da Bridge 10/11/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
nice kyle! knew we brought you along for sumthang! -
[TR] Beacon Rock - Lone Wolf and the Last Hurrah 9/12/2009
ivan replied to King Beatard's topic in Oregon Cascades
If he keeps it up.....soon the lines that are not seeing free ascents will be. i doubt it - it's not like i'm placing many pins at all, and when i do, they're always birdbeaks or kniveblades, and not exactly blasting you out huge holds - nor am i cleanign the routes beyond the bare minimum to aid up them -
since when did the weather have to be good for aid-climbing? in real foul weather, there's a great route on the n side that stays dry always, and the village route off the left side of the party ledge is pretty dry too (especially for the belayer )
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that would be indeed the silver lining in the cloud of this gloomy, early demise
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i don't understand how we can uninvent a device that gives each of its inventors so much power - i know the japanese briefly managed to uninvent gunpowder for a few centuries, but i doubt their motives were analgous to ours
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when i was 9 i got totally freaked out by some vampire movie i'd just watched and spent the whole night w/ my glow in the dark plastic rosary round my neck (not david carradine style, mind ye)
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[TR] Menage-a-Twat - Da Turkey Monsta & Da Bridge 10/11/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
wouldn't i need to post it in spray? oh wait...isn't everythign supposed to go there? -
Well, Jesus gotta couple options here... these must sell very well in latin america the true hard-woman would no doubt prefer the buddhism line of products though
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will i be able form a domestic relationship w/ my jade-plants if i vote for this? my fish? seriously, what WOULD jeebus do?
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reckoning out the total # of days i've been exchanging the gases w/ the world as of today, i can't help but remark on how extraordinarily little i've done with at least 10,000 of them
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Trip: Menage-a-Twat - Da Turkey Monsta & Da Bridge Date: 10/11/2009 Trip Report: spent 2 nights up in the menage-a-twat wilderness w/ geoff n' kyle n' tyler n' his bud who failed to tell me his sobriquet before i was too drunk to care to remember did the monster over 2 days w/ geoff n' kyle the descent off the old overgrown road down to the monster would be hard to do correct w/o a native coolie to show you the way - actually it's not bad w/ the right beta i reckon - past the clibmers camp, just past a boggy part, a white cliff stands on left and a cairn marks the point where you give up hope and start sliding down hill thrutching at thorns n' hand-stabbies - a mountain axe is much recommended turkey cock! from here it's skiers left down steep dirt geoff on the attack, p1 - new bolts courtesy of that tyler feller, who generously removed the first fixed pin so ole boy could reaaaaach for the nut placement start of p2 - who can resist clipping the 30 year old hammered in tent-peg? this pitch is creaky scary, but if you get scared, at least you can bang out a marley-tune on the hollow rocks till ya gt centered anchor atop p2 - wingnuts, they're not just for talk-radio! not featured is tyler's new 3rd bolt and the #3 backup geoff following p2 geoff leading p3 - tyler's not quite got round to swapping out the smithsonian iron on this pitch, but his fixed rope gave you the ultimate chicken-out option, should it have been required... mank under pressure - gotta love the tinfoil hangers geoff's bro kyle, the vip 3rd member of the party and the Provider of Ultra-Light Cigarretes cannonhole just below the summit - Da Beast lurks beyond da wabbit-ears high times at turkey point - kyle refuses to make the walk of faith - late afternoon sun lights up the sky above keith (?) creek da bridge a sweet place to watch an earthquake from the delightfully simple butterfly buttress on the right geoff atop p3 - the ninja-belay bolts eluded hiim for awhile why would some silly ruffian drill 2 holes in this poor defenseless rock? fall in progress below keith's knob eat me - seriously. tyler n' company, having survived a lenghty fall w/ the help of danny devito's dong-dong life preserver, stand atop the zebra Gear Notes: for da monster, a buncha nuts and x2-3 cams from 1-4 inches for da bridge, no nuts, 1 cam each .5-2 Approach Notes: past the yarder and hordes of paunchy middle-aged men operating massive tree-destroying equipment the trail to the bridge group is currently very well flagged and cut
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bill has clearly run afoul of a doppleganger
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where are the snowdens of yesteryear?
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mark it zero, next frame.
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yup, you can always cheat death, even when your hands are frozen and you've dropped yer prusiks
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I kept thinking why is this psycho jumping! Next time just yell "FALLING!". Was that the same day I lost (and later you gained?) a #5 C4? a mind like a steel-trap you have! that poor #5 stayed a year before someone musta cut it out w/ a blowtorch off: do tell
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it sounds like your mind is not flexible enough - i recommend a strict no-food/no-water psilosibin regimen until you get the desired result (or you have a schizophrenic breakdown )
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none of ya'll get to say you climbed wrong gull unless you do the second pitch! the highlight of that for me was screaming at old walla walla ken - "dude, i'm gonna fucking jump!" when i'd deduced after 30 minutes of sweating, contorting, and screaming that i couldn't get through the hateful ow w/o dislocating every bone in my body - ken: "what?!?" me: "i'm fucking jumping...right...now!!!" ken: "what? wait!!!" me: "ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!" as i fell 40 some odd feet back down the route luckily, the insane yosemite style ow can be overcome via a thin crack off left, but godamn it's stout!
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Missing climber in the Buck-Clark-Luahna area
ivan replied to therunningdog's topic in Climber's Board
the whole bear race might not be looking for revenge on him i hope?
