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Everything posted by ivan
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Really? What else is there? Say real 5.10 or harder (i.e. not a .10c stemming route with a 10' 5.7 wide section or an overrated 5.8 pitch that people call 5.10 cause they don't know how to climb wide cracks.) Hit me with a tick list. will, it wasn't my claim to begin w/ and i think joe was probalby kidding - have you done wrong gull though? i didn't see the crux as a 5.7 at all, but then i am the suck there isn't much wide stuff at beacon - jensen's ridge, p3 is 5" though and rated in the 10 range - jensen's rimjob is also 5-6" wide, but not terribly long and probaby much harder at the top where it's a roof, not a crack (i've only aided it) no other wide stuff sticks out in my mind - sounded like plaidman coulda just done those though if he was looking for wide and saved himself some gas money!
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easter party, 2001 - jesus wine-keg - note the paper-mache material
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then after your meetings you can pop down to the local malt shop and get tall, cool glasses of shut-the-fuck-up? right, next you're probably gonna say guy fawkes DIDN'T really have a conspiracy to blow up parliament! kev, i get all my facts from cc.com - is that not good? "3 can keep a secret, if 2 of them are dead"
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if by the campfire analogy you mean having some bullshit to do when you're drunk n' bored, then check! (and probably why i'm near leading hte league in these parts ) most of the fun in creating tr's for me, aside from stroking meself, is in reliving and preserving the memory so, 10 minutes from now after i've seen somethign shiny, i can actually remember w/ some detail how the fuck i acquired all these new scars
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a bit more, certainly at the top, but not as long as dana's i'd imagine (22 meters from ledge to anchor) - certainly steeper to start though the last pitch i'm hoping to do this weekend in the suck
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yeah, that sounds like the 2nd pitch - it ends at the optional belay below the 2 pins (the short 10ish section) on right gull.
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[TR] Menage-a-Twat - Da Turkey Monsta & Da Bridge 10/11/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
what i like 'bout the menage-a-trois is that each spire pretty much involves bombing strait down an out-of-control steep brushy hill-fuck sorta thing, then desperately clawing right the hell back out of it when done - the old overgrown road obviously marking the end of the upwards thrutch-fuck takes the tension out of it - yer climb, get high as georgia-pine then stumble back to the rawk-w-yer-cawk out park'n'lot scene! -
[TR] Yosemite Wide Tour - A Bust - Short Version - 10/8/2009
ivan replied to Plaidman's topic in California
"the less a man makes declarative statements, the less apt he is to look foolish in hindsight" -
the way you know this wasn't a bush conspiracy is that it actually worked the defense industry owned the country before 9/11 anyhow, it's not like they needed a new line of bullshit to keep the shekels flying their way.
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plenty of clean aid out at beacon, even in the rain - the only routes i've needed hammers on are fresh squeeze and the pipeline headwall - the village route off the ledge goes clean, having a big piece in the #4-6 range is good (a #4 alone will do) - i usually bring a single hook, but my boy mike did it w/o one - the route will top out, but i still havne't done it - looks like a 1/4 pitch or so from my new anchors to near the rap tree on uprising village goes as c2 i reckon - good fun - would be a little wierd to solo as it's a long traverse
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[TR] Menage-a-Twat - Da Turkey Monsta & Da Bridge 10/11/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
nice kyle! knew we brought you along for sumthang! -
[TR] Beacon Rock - Lone Wolf and the Last Hurrah 9/12/2009
ivan replied to King Beatard's topic in Oregon Cascades
If he keeps it up.....soon the lines that are not seeing free ascents will be. i doubt it - it's not like i'm placing many pins at all, and when i do, they're always birdbeaks or kniveblades, and not exactly blasting you out huge holds - nor am i cleanign the routes beyond the bare minimum to aid up them -
since when did the weather have to be good for aid-climbing? in real foul weather, there's a great route on the n side that stays dry always, and the village route off the left side of the party ledge is pretty dry too (especially for the belayer )
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that would be indeed the silver lining in the cloud of this gloomy, early demise
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i don't understand how we can uninvent a device that gives each of its inventors so much power - i know the japanese briefly managed to uninvent gunpowder for a few centuries, but i doubt their motives were analgous to ours
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when i was 9 i got totally freaked out by some vampire movie i'd just watched and spent the whole night w/ my glow in the dark plastic rosary round my neck (not david carradine style, mind ye)
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[TR] Menage-a-Twat - Da Turkey Monsta & Da Bridge 10/11/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
wouldn't i need to post it in spray? oh wait...isn't everythign supposed to go there? -
Well, Jesus gotta couple options here... these must sell very well in latin america the true hard-woman would no doubt prefer the buddhism line of products though
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will i be able form a domestic relationship w/ my jade-plants if i vote for this? my fish? seriously, what WOULD jeebus do?
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reckoning out the total # of days i've been exchanging the gases w/ the world as of today, i can't help but remark on how extraordinarily little i've done with at least 10,000 of them
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Trip: Menage-a-Twat - Da Turkey Monsta & Da Bridge Date: 10/11/2009 Trip Report: spent 2 nights up in the menage-a-twat wilderness w/ geoff n' kyle n' tyler n' his bud who failed to tell me his sobriquet before i was too drunk to care to remember did the monster over 2 days w/ geoff n' kyle the descent off the old overgrown road down to the monster would be hard to do correct w/o a native coolie to show you the way - actually it's not bad w/ the right beta i reckon - past the clibmers camp, just past a boggy part, a white cliff stands on left and a cairn marks the point where you give up hope and start sliding down hill thrutching at thorns n' hand-stabbies - a mountain axe is much recommended turkey cock! from here it's skiers left down steep dirt geoff on the attack, p1 - new bolts courtesy of that tyler feller, who generously removed the first fixed pin so ole boy could reaaaaach for the nut placement start of p2 - who can resist clipping the 30 year old hammered in tent-peg? this pitch is creaky scary, but if you get scared, at least you can bang out a marley-tune on the hollow rocks till ya gt centered anchor atop p2 - wingnuts, they're not just for talk-radio! not featured is tyler's new 3rd bolt and the #3 backup geoff following p2 geoff leading p3 - tyler's not quite got round to swapping out the smithsonian iron on this pitch, but his fixed rope gave you the ultimate chicken-out option, should it have been required... mank under pressure - gotta love the tinfoil hangers geoff's bro kyle, the vip 3rd member of the party and the Provider of Ultra-Light Cigarretes cannonhole just below the summit - Da Beast lurks beyond da wabbit-ears high times at turkey point - kyle refuses to make the walk of faith - late afternoon sun lights up the sky above keith (?) creek da bridge a sweet place to watch an earthquake from the delightfully simple butterfly buttress on the right geoff atop p3 - the ninja-belay bolts eluded hiim for awhile why would some silly ruffian drill 2 holes in this poor defenseless rock? fall in progress below keith's knob eat me - seriously. tyler n' company, having survived a lenghty fall w/ the help of danny devito's dong-dong life preserver, stand atop the zebra Gear Notes: for da monster, a buncha nuts and x2-3 cams from 1-4 inches for da bridge, no nuts, 1 cam each .5-2 Approach Notes: past the yarder and hordes of paunchy middle-aged men operating massive tree-destroying equipment the trail to the bridge group is currently very well flagged and cut
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bill has clearly run afoul of a doppleganger
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where are the snowdens of yesteryear?
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mark it zero, next frame.