ivan

i've just done the dutchman - bears is just beside it, climbers left, and as i mentioned, is very easy to wander over to for the 20 ft or so where the dutchman gets uber-thin not suprised you hung on bears, fucker's stout! so john, you should rally your forces for a first free ascent of smooth dancer - almost got it all cleaned up for you...

sure will be funny when fig-eaters manage to get a 3 story mosque up b4 Uncle Sam can get construction out of the fucking basement of ground z, even w/ a 9 year headstart

didn't nate free it a year or two ago, at least on tr? 5.11+? i recall i had aided it not too long before. as an aid climb, it's no more than c2 - very thin in a few places, but at its thinist it's easy to step into bears in heat and use the 2-3 inch crack for pro instead of tiny wires great pro once halfway up

the lord likes foolz n' drunkz - i should know

i'm drunk n' 5 dayz behindt this thread but pretty sure i haven't missed anythign

agree in that the new bolts don't change the feel - didn't notice it meself at the time as i was too busy noticing all the other changes you mentioned i do wish jim had been cool w/ it though - agree his comments equalled "no, don't do it," but hten that's the point of getting hte fa's permission - i don't understand how you determine that the bolts were bad - how did you reach that conclusion, especially w/o destroying the bolt in the process?

:lmao: seems strang to me that jim would care so much about rebolting yw, but then being strange is what makes jim so interesting - does seem that having his blessing would have been in order, given that he's still alive and out there all the time, and he sure doesn't see it that way - whatevers...the day i fall onto a bolt on yw is the die i oughta die anyhow

done it once a year for the past 3 years i think, all in the poorest of styles of course - the start is indeed stupid thin n' skerry, but not so bad in the big picture - wouldn't be suprised at all if there was a pin in there once (speaking of finger-pullable pins, took one out right by the rat's nest of bolts n' pins at the anchor there 2 years ago i think) - also wouldn't care if a pin got reset at the start of that 2nd pitch

if a route out there's been nailed before, feel free to nail on it now - if it in fact is being neglected, who's gonna bitch about it? speaking of which, who wants to donate pins to fixing many of hte placements on smooth dancer so it stays in use (and so i don't have to actually try to funk the bastards out for steve? )

oldlarry on this site is looking for a partner fo rhat very route if you're intersted - did it about 2 weeks ago and imagine the snow still lingers on the descent from the pyramid, but would recommend you ascend on the right-hand ridge anyhow - suspect there are some big gapers attaining the initial section of the chimneys, but hey that's mountainnering for you at least you oughta be able to drive to the trailhead now...

that could be downright nasty - was she able to get out under her own power?

the patch under takes fist is there b/c smooth dancer and the lines beside it are being cleaned - that area was clean in the past, but returned to mossy obscurity and deserves to be revived - if you like mossy beauty, there's plenty to be had on the north, east and west sides - how long do you think it will take for Ma Nature to reassert herself once we meat popsicles have been shown the door? that said, once the cleanign is done, certainly the accumulated debris at the base will need to be sorted out

you forgot about the paper airplanes dood the main source of rockfall on the jill's thrill/main-rap off grassy ledges, which is really more annoying than dangerous as it just comes in the form of gravel coming down when you pull your rope on the first rap, is still there, and won't be improved until you remove a couple wheel-barrows worht of soil from that chute where they make up the root-bed of that tree/bush i'm not convinced that periodically kicking off debris from the heavily traveled areas makes stuff safer/better, but if it makes you happy and it's at night, why not? certainly if one were to throw all the choss and debris off the mighty monolith, there wouldn't be much left in the end

my old tr's for beacon keep showing up in the oregon forum and i'd be happy to have them moved it's also still not possible to post tr's in the gorge forum, so i shall continue to annoy the general public from time to time in the or-e-gone forum when it pleases me

word - how can anyone see shit like that and NOT want to aid climb (unless of course they're a genetic freak like the honorable mr wallstein, much honor and respect onto his free-climbing jujo gods?)

they certainly tend towards corpulence...which makes a man calm and reasonable

that's not right

for god's sake, WILL SOMEONE PLEASE THINK OF THE CHILDREN?!?

cue the "chalk is trash" comeback in....3....2....1

there's also the direct approach, eh?

If you have the time for the longer approach via Whatcom Pass, the route might be worth it....=) Yeah we looked at going in "the long way" but schedules didn't allow for all that extra hiking. (though that might just be my excuse for being lazy...) the long way holds an unacceptably high risk of running out of wine n' smokes along the way fortunately the path to our criminal rehabilation only takes 5-10 years

thanx - wow, what can't teh intrewebs do?

really? i was just chalking it up to being a fat ass and aiding on the thing - so should i deal w/ metolius directly or the outfit i bought it from?

wives don't like the word "solo" much

did a lap on GZ yday, this time sans partner bizarro occurence - while setting up at the base suddenly some rockfall from above and a rope came down from the ground zero anchor up on grassy ledges - holy fuck, am i getting beat to the route, a route still overgrown from last year, one that last year got maybe a half-dozen ascents? turned out to be some dude mark who tr'ed it in style and even left me most of the flowers to pull from the cracks heard someone free soloed blown out the other day, then downclimbed jills thrill on p1 took a fall just a bit below the bolt in the rotten section - daisy fell onto the thin brassy a halfbody length below - guess it exceded 5 kilonewtons? beautiful day - cold even, certainly for the last day of july - sounded like the scotch hordes of pdx were out weeping for william wallace down by the boatlaunch as krowds of kiltwearing types were plainly visible down there, and the continous hum of pipes n' drums made my ascent quite the merry scene above the crux on p2 i reached down to clean my 00 metollius only to discover something drastic had happened to it - wtf? looks like the stopper on one of the lobs broke off? at any rate, it no longer answers - only bought the damn thing a couple months ago and its held no falls -wtf did i do to it? anyone had similiar problems w/ this unit? the 0 i've wailed on for years w/ no issues... clouds of mozzies on the getwaway as always - old larry made for good compnay - next mission smooth dancer?