Alpinfox

Yeah, I ropegunned that 5.5 pitch at the top once.

# Salathe' Wall / Freerider - 5.12d ** (37p: 8 5.11, 5 5.12) * FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber, 10/98 o topo (ready 11/01) o Salathe' Wall / Excalibur o uses a new 5.12a traverse and 3 previously freed Excalibur pitches to avoid the 5.13 Salathe' Headwall o used Alex Huber's variations to avoid the p19 corner and "Teflon Corner". o time: 15:25. Both climbers freed all 37 pitches. o This variation was eyed by Skinner and Piana as a "backup plan", in case they were unable to free the Salathe' Headwall o Climbing #182 * 2nd? FA - Rob Miller, Nathan Martin, 2001, 5 days * 3rd? FA - Dean Potter, 9/02, linked after doing Half Dome free He did the crux at 3:40am, using 4 headlamps (one fall, redpointed). * 4th? FA - Ben Bransby, Jvan Tresch, 10/02, 13:50 * 5th? FA - Matjaz Jeran, Miha Valic, 10/03 * 6th? FA - Steph Davis, 4/04, 4 days Led all pitches 3rd woman to free El Cap; 2nd to lead all pitches free * 7th? FA - Mike Anderson, Mark Anderson, 5/04 Mike led or followed all pitches free with no falls 6 days, including one rest day, and a day off to fly home to Salt Lake City and take an exam! they aided the Salathe' in 2002, but otherwise hadn't worked on the free pitches * 8th? FA - Steph Davis, 5/04, 22 hours 15 minutes 2nd woman to free El Cap in a day, leading all pitches started in the evening, climbed to the Alcove and slept 3 hours there crux sideways dyno above is 5.13a for 5'5" person partner - Heinz Zak * 9th? FA - Andres Cottamiata Muller, Fernando A. Ayres, 6/04 worked on the free pitches in the spring * 10th? FA - Nicolas Favresse, Seán Villanueva, Fall/04 onsighted 35 of the 36 pitches * 11th? FA - Leo Houlding, 9/05 o onsighted all but one pitch, where he took one fall (had climbed Free Blast before, but not Salathe') o Day 1: started at 10am, reached El Cap Spire bivvy at 4:20pm, 21 pitches, no falls o Day 2: started at 8am (after a cold bivvy), took one fall on p24 (5.12d crux), on top at 5:30pm o belayed by Chris Van Leuven * 12th? FA - Sean Leary, Steve Schneider, 10/05 o swapped leads to Sous le Toit ledge, then Leary led the remaining 5.12 pitches. All pitches were followed free. o Leary took one fall, leading the 5.12d Huber variation o Schneider had 3 falls, following the last 3 5.12 pitches, but returned to each belay to follow free (including reversing the 5.12 traverse). o preparation: Leary worked the route in 2004, when he nearly freed it in a day. Schneider had not tried the 5.12 Freerider variation pitches. o 3 days * 13th? FA - Tommy Caldwell, 10/05 o done in preparation for the Nose-Freerider linkup, a few days after freeing the Nose in a day o preparation: freed the Salathe' in 1999 and 2002 * 14th? FA - Tommy Caldwell, 10/05, linked with the Nose o 2 falls on p28 (5.12b flaring corner crack), partly because it was dark and hard to see the stemming footholds o 10:50 for Freerider, 23:23 elapsed time for the linkup o started at 1:36pm, on top at 12:26am o 2 hours for the first 10 pitches o on the Monster Offwidth at sunset o belayed by Chris McNamara

LABATTS?!?!?

Climb 12 different routes to the summit of Mt. Rainier, one per month, for twelve consecutive months.

Spray iz teh knew chat.

Chat is SOOOOOO FUCKING HAWT RIGHT NOW!!! OMG!

<---Click

- This is Your work. You better take care of me, Lord. If You don't, You're gonna have me on Your hands. [ Siren Wailing ] - Pull over ! Pull over ! Hey ! Good morning. How are you ? All right, man. Doing very well. Few people understand the psychology of dealing with a highway traffic cop. Your normal speeder will panic and immediately pull over to the side. - This is wrong.- It arouses contempt in the cop heart. Make the bastard chase you. He will follow. But he won't know what to make of your blinker signal that says you're about to turn right. This is to let him know you're pulling off for a proper place to talk. It'll take him a moment to realize he's about to make a 90-degree turn, at speed. But you will be ready. Brace for the "G"s. Fast heel-toe work. [ Siren Continues ] [ Siren Stops ] Hi. How are you ? Just what in the hell did you think you were doing ? I wanna know. Let me see your license. Oh, yeah, of course. There you are. Oh, my gosh. It's me. May I please have that ? I knew I was fucked. See you have two cases of beer, a basket of grapefruit... stack of T-shirts and towels, light bulbs. - You realize what you did when you drive like that ? - Yeah, I know. I'm guilty. I understand that. I knew it was a crime. I did it anyway. Shit, why argue ? I'm a fucking criminal. Look at me. You have a strange attitude. Maybe. You know, I have a feeling you need to take a nap. There's a rest area just up ahead. I'd like you to go up there, pull over and get a few hours' sleep. That's not gonna help me. I've been awake for too long. Three or four nights, maybe. Can't even remember. I go to sleep now, I'm dead for hours. What are you carrying two cases of soap for, son ? I wanna stay clean. No. Here's how it is. What I put in my book, as of noon... is that I apprehended you for driving too fast. I advised you to proceed to the next rest area. - ~ [ Humming ] Stop ! I advised you to proceed to the next rest area--your stated destination, right ? And take a long nap. Do I make myself clear ? Well... how far is Baker ? I was sort of hoping to, I don't know, stop there for lunch. It's not my jurisdiction. City limits end 5 miles beyond the rest area. Can you make it that far ? I'll try. I've been wanting to go to Baker for a long time. Yeah. Heard a lot about it. Excellent seafood. You know, I'm thinkin', a guy with your kind of mind...ought to try the land-crab. - Excellent seafood. - Land-crab. All right. Why not ? Thanks for the tip. Look at me in the eyes. Everything all right ? May I have a little kiss before you go ? I'm very lonely here. ~ Oh, Mama ~ ~ Can this really be the end ~ I felt raped. The pig had done me on all fronts. And now he was going off to chuckle about it on the west side of town... waiting for me to make a run for L.A. Why, yes, Officer. Of course I'll take advantage of that rest area. And I can't tell you how grateful I am for this break you wanna give me.

Hey Olympia! You should have offered to clean that cop's pistol!

What do you guys think? Does it clash with my avatar? I think a certain Nodderator is gonna get bitchslapped!

Generally that is the case but I'm willing to bet the cop made a special exception just for MrE because he drives that hippie van... probably was hoping for a bust A quick review of the thread seems to indicate to me that it was Olympia Climber (not Mr.E) that was pulled over for this egregious offense. Also, E don't drive that pot wagon no more. He be drivin a mini-Hummer now that runs on straight spotted owl blood. Edit: You have learned the ways of the stealth edit well my son. Now you must master the koan of the multiple avatars.

I recently climbed "First Blood" at Tieton which felt like 9+ to me though it is rated 5.8. I'm not very good at off-widths though. Carnival crack feels like 5.13. BTW: HERE is an older thread about sandbags.

Put down the scrabble dictionary and get back to work nerd boy.

Alternatively, you can use GERMAN BABIES.

I would use the Search function as a solo belay device. Might I suggest using "+Solo +belay +device" as your search terms?

O M G ! ! ! ! I just saved a ton of money on my car insurance.

Thanks Andy! 5.8? fist?

Cut down any trees that were younger than you today? Happy Birthday K.

T - A = 0 By the additive property of equality it follows that: T = 0 + A Simplifying: T = A By the inverse property of equality it follows that: -T = -A Running that through our Ghetto translator, we get: "If a bitch ain't be havin' no titties, she SHO' NUFF ain't got no ass!"

I'd be careful about pressing this case. If the college has any control over the cliffs, and particularly if their legal office can imagine any situtation in which they could possibly be liable for any damage/injury/death, it might be easier for them to say "OK, no more climbing" than to try to institute complicated rules/procedures to make sure that climbers (and the occasional hiker) are safe. The best course of action might be to 1) find out who the land manager of the cliffs and surrounding area is. This information should shape the strategy for dealing with the problem. If it's private (e.g. owned by the college) you should shut up. If it's the city, you may be able to get something done through official channels. 2) Perhaps put in a sign atop the cliff alerting would-be bottle throwers to the possibility of climbers/hikers below. The access fund or local volunteer funds/labor could help with this. 3) the trash can idea seems like a good one to me. If the college/city won't install and maintain it, maybe volunteer climbers could service it? 4) beat their Rusky asses next time. Summary: Focusing attention on safety issues at Rocky Butte might not be conducive to insuring continued climbing access.

What's the relief of Mt. Shasta?

OMG! FUNNY!!! I'M DYIN' HERE!

Yer gonna let a little hail forecast chase you off? WEAKSAUCE!