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Everything posted by Alpinfox
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[TR] Index G-M Route- G-M and other stuff (Thin Fi
Alpinfox replied to olyclimber's topic in North Cascades
Princely Stoke! -
[TR] Index G-M Route- G-M and other stuff (Thin Fi
Alpinfox replied to olyclimber's topic in North Cascades
Is that p2 of Davis-Holland? -
[TR] Index G-M Route- G-M and other stuff (Thin Fi
Alpinfox replied to olyclimber's topic in North Cascades
That's OK Natty, you're still a rock star in my book. -
[TR] Index G-M Route- G-M and other stuff (Thin Fi
Alpinfox replied to olyclimber's topic in North Cascades
Yes, but I have ADD, so you should probably post more pictures to keep my interest up. -
[TR] Index G-M Route- G-M and other stuff (Thin Fi
Alpinfox replied to olyclimber's topic in North Cascades
I honestly don't remember. I don't have trouble there. I have trouble getting off the ledge above that because I always wanna fill up the fingerpods with gear to prevent hitting the ledge if I fell. This is especially a problem when your partner's rack doesn't have any nuts smaller than 1/2". This is a rare instance where having smaller "nutz" gives you more confidence than bigguns. -
Well maybe I'm just a "gol' durn' librul cynic", but GWB ain't no conservationist/environmentalist, and I ain't givin' him credit for such. This place was already designated as an "ecosystem reserve" and there was only a small, token amount of regulated fishing going on, so I don't think this is going to make a huge difference in the health of the ecosystem there.
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Yeah, I think based on the facts I know about the place thus far (a rare, delicate, and rich ecosystem is being designated as a new National Monument) it sounds really cool, but what does the designation mean and was the area really under threat? From what I've read, it doesn't sound like anyone ever went to this place, including fishing vessels*(see edit below), so will this designation really change the prospects of this ecosystem flourishing in the future? A variation of the tree falling in the forest epithet, "If a place that no one ever vists gets designated as wilderness, does it really matter"? I'd be curious to hear how much fishing/mining/etc went on out there and how that will change now. edit: "According to Hawaii officials, nine bottomfishers now work the area, using weighted, baited fishing lines to catch about $1.5 million worth of snappers and sea bass."
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So credit should be given to the environmental lobbyists who pressured the administration to give lipservice to conservation by "protecting" an ecosystem that wasn't under threat (well, actually they are going to let fishing continue for 10 years, but after THAT it will be "protected")? I agree. I dunno, maybe I'm wrong. Maybe this area really is threatened and this designation will make a difference. But why are they allowing fishing to continue for the next 10 years if the area really is threatened? If they continue to allow fishing, what is the point of this designation except to make Bush look good?
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No, it's about getting drunk before noon. ... and then sobering up.
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THIS JUST IN!!! George Bush declares Sea of Tranquility a No-Drilling-For-Oil zone! Lunar preservationists rejoice!
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THAT'S what I'm talkin' about. Damn Will, you should go pro.
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"now you can tightline the cameltoe in style while letting it all hang out on the Camp 4 slackline?"
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I've just been informed that Patagonia makes a Capilene thong. So how would the description/caption in the catalog read?
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[TR] Index G-M Route- G-M and other stuff (Thin Fi
Alpinfox replied to olyclimber's topic in North Cascades
yup. That pitch is 10b/c the way we did it. -
[TR] Index G-M Route- G-M and other stuff (Thin Fi
Alpinfox replied to olyclimber's topic in North Cascades
That "5.11" is 5.9 for three moves and then 5.6. As chuck said in another thread. Either a new hold was created or unearthed from the moss, or it was a typo in the guidebook. -
Alpin-Strunk&White-Fox be gettin' all UP in yo' grill fo' dat!
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Shock is a general term for inadequate cardiovascular function. It can be thought of in layman's terms as "not having enough fluid (blood) in the pipes (vessels and heart)" to maintain enough pressure to adequtely circulate fluid thorughout the system. It can be caused by many things. The three types related to trauma are: Hypovolemic shock: blood loss. Not enough fluid in the pipes due to a leak of fluid. Neurogenic shock: damage to central nervous system which controls blood pressure, HR, vascular tone, etc. causing subsequent drop in blood pressure. The pipes dilate, thereby becoming bigger, and then there isn't enough blood to fill them and generate enough pressure to get good perfusion. Psychogenic shock: I don't understand the physiology behind this one very well, but I think of it as a Neurogenic shock induced by a psychological trauma. The end result is the same. Nervous system dysfuction causes vessels to dilate. Big pipes, not enough fluid = low pressure. Psychogenic shock is very common and was the most likely form of shock the individual in the Little Si incident was experiencing. Basic treatment for these types of shock includes: controlling bleeding, positioning patient with feet raised (don't do this if they have head trauma) which increases blood volume+pressure in the torso+head, keeping the patient warm, reassuring/comforting patient (especially important for psychogenic shock), administering oxygen, and packaging and transporting to hospital. There are other forms of shock... anaphylactic, septic, etc. GOOD LINK Another good link explaining physiological of BP regulation LINK 2
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OMG! DRUNK BEFORE NOON! LOL! RIP IT UP!
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Bolts ahoy mateys! Fuckin' sport route outta be chopped. ARRRRRRRRRRGH!
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1. I don't think the increased range is advantageous because it means you can carry less cams (though that may be true in some situations), I think it's advantageous because you are more likely to be able to get the first cam you grab off your rack to fit in the crack when you are pumped and about to peel off. 2. You can't clip in short with WC Friends. So yes, that is relevant to the present discussion. 3. I guess we agree. 4. C4 camalots are significantly lighter than the old camalots and I think they are comparable to other cams on the market now. 5. A 24% price difference per cam IS irrelevant over the lifetime of a cam and should NOT be the deciding factor in rock climbing/safety gear equipment selection.
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Camalots have dual axle = more range C4 camalots you can clip in short for aid climbing C4s have the smoothest action and best handling of any cam on the market C4s are lighter (I think) than WC friends Price difference is negligible. c4 Camalots. No, I'm not sponsored by BD, but I wish I wuz. If I could climb M13 like Roger, maybe they'd choose me. I would prefer if BD put an extendable sling on the camalots like the DMM cams. BTW, this should be in the Gear Critic forum, not Newbies.
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Melt Snow Without Fuel or a Stove: Use Your Breath
Alpinfox replied to cliffhanger's topic in Climber's Board
That's a great first post captain factoid. -
I hear if you pour hot water into the nalgene first, your breath will melt snow a lot faster. Good tip to know in a survival situation.
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I think it was Sprayshaw in the Coulior with the Pink Tricam!