Alpinfox

Ain't much below 5.6. Maybe you should consider a hike/scramble up the south ridge of Black Peak.

18.3 deg In the future, you can check on www.topozone.com for this info.

What kind of "training" are you doing? weights? tearing helmets with your bare hands? Do they get numb while you are asleep? While typing on the computer?

Great post! Thanks. I have a few questions for you: I thought Diamox worked by inducing loss of sodium bicarb in urine, therefore inducing mild metabolic acidosis with the homeostatic response being increased respiration which results in boosted oxygenation of blood/tissues. Is that right? If so, does diamox prevent AMS, HAPE, and HACE because with greater oxygenation of blood, the blood pressure doesn't need to be as high, therefore no fluid leakage into lungs/brain? Is AMS really just a very mild form of HACE? and finally, regarding: If both diamox and viagra/cialis boost oxygenation, why wouldn't they both counteract AMS, HAPE, and HACE? HERE is a nice tutorial on high altitude physiology I found

The gri-gri-only belay device policy is fucking lame. I don't like the environment/clientelle of VW (only went there once). Monopolies/homogeniety are almost always bad.

First result using google search second google result Note that the mechanism of action of sildenafil with regards to the enhancement of pulmonary function is entirely distinct from the MOA of other "altitude" drugs such as diamox. I wonder if the two together would give a climber a super-boost? Hmmm.... I'm gonna write a grant. Maybe I can spend next season at Everest base camp.

I don't give a shit. I'm not being uncivil to the guy; nor do I think anyone else thus far on this thread has been. He's getting his answers - as well as this motley crue can provide them anyway. If he (or others) get flustered by coarse language or delivery styles; fuck em.

That's a bummer.

PP, you have any pictures of your method? I'd be interested to see how you protect the fingers without being overly bulky.

Well CBS, you don't even know if the guy is asking about taping to prevent wrist tendonitis (my interpretation) or if he is taping for crack climbing comfort/security (yours apparently). If the later, then your link pretty much sums things up. If the former, its still an open topic (though I agree with RUMR's advice). In either case, who gives a shit. This is an internet chat board meant primarily for entertainment (well it is for me anyway). Spray on!

I've reused tape gloves many times (once for ~8 days or so at Joshua tree) with good results. That is a great link CBS. I remember trying to find a similar link a few months ago with no success. Bullshit. It is more secure and comfortable. That's why its aid (at least in the same way that sticky rubber is aid).

Climb: Mount Stuart-Complete North Ridge Date of Climb: 9/7/2006 Inspired by TELEMARKER & FRIEND'S TRIP REPORT, ChucK and I took a day off from work yesterday to climb the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart. ChucK had done it once before with a camp and a bivy, and I had never done it before, but we figured we'd give it a go in crazy car-to-car style. Everything went really smoothly, and I don't have very much to add that hasn't been said before about this route. In fact, our experience was so similar to Telemarker's trip report that I considered just taking their report and photoshoping ChucK's and my faces over theirs. Anyway, here are a few random musings: The first two pitches of the lower ridge are really nice. I think the second pitch we did was the "Kearney death corner" (read his description in Classic Climbs of the Northwest and you'll know what I'm talking about). He says that pro is sparse and the corner is dangerous, but it must have been cleaned up since he did it, because it is easily protectable now. Anyway, we belayed the first two pitches of the lower ridge, simuled to the gendarme, did the gendarme in one pitch, and then simuled to the summit. I thought the second half of the Gendarme pitch (the offwidth section) was the hardest section of the climb. The second pitch of the lower ridge was next in difficulty, then the first half of the gendarme pitch, then the first pitch of the lower ridge. Everything else was surprisingly easy. I expected more difficult climbing overall, but the CNR is very cruxy. This is (obviously) a fantastic route. Almost 3000' of technical climbing on nearly flawless rock. Definitely deserving of it's "Classic" status. We did not see a single person all day. Nice to have such an awesome mountain all to ourselves. ChucK leading the first pitch on the lower ridge: Starting the simulclimb block just above the second pitch of the lower ridge: ChucK on the sharp ridge below the gendarme: ChucK heading up the slab below the gendarme: Looking up the slab pitch below the gendarme: Starting the gendarme pitch: Fire to the west of Stuart: Summit register: Gear Notes: blue metolius yellow metolius 0.5 camalot 0.75 camalot 1 camalot (x2) 2 camalot #4 forged friend about 6 nuts (mostly medium-large) three medium hexes 10 slings no crampons, no axes 60m 9.2mm rope (probably could have done it with a doubled over 7.5) Times: Woke at 3am Left car at 3:30am Base of ridge at 8:15am Started climbing at 8:30am Notch at ~noon Summit at 3:30pm Car at 8:15pm Approach Notes: We went in via Ingalls Lake, over Goat Pass, traversed to base of ridge, up route, down cascadian, then over Longs Pass. Water was available on the traverse from Goat Pass to the base of the route. No water until base of Cascadian Coulior.

Since I'm not a medical professional, I'll go ahead and give you some advice. Rest - don't exercise the hand anymore than necessary. Tape your fingers together to remind you that you are injured and shouldn't be using them. Ice - reduces inflamation and pain Ibuprofen/Naproxen - Reduces inflamation and pain If it hasn't gotten significantly better within a week post-injury, go see your doctor. Don't wait too long, because if you really popped a tendon, there is a critical period for surgical repair (if that is necessary) - though if you can still flex the fingers and you don't have a bowstringing tendon, total tendon rupture is unlikely. It could be a partial tear of the palmar fascia. If so, hopefully, in your case the inflamatory response/healing won't lead to a Duputreyen's contracture. Like I said, I wouldn't rely on the advice of an anonymous, random person on the internet, even if they are an Alpinfox.

Holy beta overload! I'm disapointed I missed that chimney thing when I did the WR. That looks neat.

I would recommend talking to a hand specialist (PM me if you'd like a recommendation). You may have to get a referral from you general practice doctor. Don't rely on medical info you get from anonymous, random people via the internet. There are a couple of medical professionals that post on this website, but they aren't going to give you any advice without an examination.

Permits are not required if you approach via Ingalls Lake. The route is entirely devoid of water. You can get water on the traverse from Goat Pass to the base of the ridge. The next place to get water is from a little creek at the base of the Cascadian Coulior on the descent. I don't know what rap you are talking about. The one to avoid the gendarme? Just do the gendarme. No rap necessary.

The ones on the tower itself work as well, but not as smooth a pull as the ones TM is talking about. If you wanna TR Angel and/or Damnation, you can extend the tower anchor a bit and it works fine.

F4 has big hands, so I'm sure it's harder for him, but Blake, you gotta try it again. It's not that hard. Two moves and then you have bomber hands.

Activities are not what I was talking about. I was talking about the "umwelt" of being an American post 9/11. Sure, the same TV programs are still on, our diets haven't changed, but something sure feels different to me.

I did the same thing. That's some fun clamberin'!

I think he is trying to say that Americans quickly forgot about 9-11 and are back to the regularly scheduled program of sipping on diet cokes, eating big macs, and watching TV and that sort of shit. Personally I think that is a pretty asinine statement since most Americans I've talked to consider 9-11 to be a life changing moment. I know it was for me. Maybe he's being sarcastic and actually saying the opposite? The only comparable event for me was the explosion of the space shuttle Challenger in 1986, but I was a little kid in love with space at that time (and my dad was in the astronaut program) so it probably meant a little more to me than most. I think most Americans are still shocked by the events of 9-11 and the subsequent fear, anger, etc, will last as long as the memories of the people who were alive at the time.

That's awesome Matt. Who was your ropegun?