Alpinfox

So you are coming from Vancouver, BC specifically to climb at Exit 38?

Right. Let's get back to pointing fingers at our government that tortured an innocent Canadian citizen.

I've learned to hate [muslims] All through my whole life If another war starts It's them we must fight To hate them and fear them To run and to hide And accept it all bravely With God on my side. But now we got weapons Of the chemical dust If fire them we're forced to Then fire them we must One push of the button And a shot the world wide And you never ask questions When God's on your side.

You've been sniffing glue again eh? edut: What is a retart?

1) Dolphin at J-Tree 2) some chimbley at the Shorter Wall, J-Tree 3) aided off one at Straiton Bluff on Sumas Mountain 4) at the top of PigPen at Harrison Bluffs 6) in the OW at the top of Corner Crack at Squamish 7) Marble Four at Marble Canyon I think one or two other places but I forget where. I think there's somewhere you can place it at the bottom of Joe's Crack if you are building an anchor for teaching purposes. You are a fucking madman.

Mr. G. Please post a list of climbs on which you have placed a #7 tricam.

Just got back from Headlight Basin about 6 hours ago. It rained quite a bit Sunday night and this morning and all the snow is melted away.

I think having a "Mt. Beckey" in the Cascades is a great idea and has been on the minds of many folks around here for a long time. Because of his history with it, and the fact that Fred has been heard to say that it is his "favorite peak in the Cascades", Forbidden Peak would be a great choice, but "Forbidden Peak" is a pretty cool name, so I wouldn't want that one to be changed. I don't think Fred would either, since he named it.

I know Jens is a badass, but that route looks SICK!!!

I've never been in past my waist, nor have I ever been on a trip on which any partner of mine went in past their waist. I have gone in up to my crotch or waist 4 times I think. Once I wasn't roped up and my pack kept me from going all the way in through the snowbridge. Both feet were swinging freely in open air. F'n scary. Once I got pulled (by the dumbshit on the rope ahead of me) into a crevasse filled with water. Good thing it was a warm day. The falling-through-the-snowbridge method of going into a crevasse is most likely to happen in early "winter" before the snowbridges are strong enough to hold bodyweight or in "spring" when they are melting out. The month in which "early winter" and "spring" conditions occur are different every year, different for different elevations, ranges, aspects of the mountain, etc. By sheer number of incidents, I'd bet crevasse falls are highest in June/July/August just because thats when the most people are out in the mountains.

Sure. No problem.

Yeah, I think that's the idea.

STFU newb. Of course no one has one yet. ....unless CobraCommander=Steve Jobs?

Sorry citizens. It's been a while since I brought a truly outstanding shopping opportunity, so I shall make amends. My offerings to you: Refurbished iPod Nanos 2gb for $99, 30gb iPods for $179, 512MB shuffles for $49, 60gb iPods for $229 1GB Secure Digital Card 150X speed for $8 2GB Secure Digital Card 150X speed for $18 Sorry these aren't climbing related.

BECAUSE I LOVE KISSING ASS! NOW STFU!

YOU ALL HATE AMERICA!

JEEZZZUUUUUSSSS!!!! STFU ALREADY!

OOOOHHHHH!! !!! CAN I BE A TOOL TOO????

DO YOU WANT TO SEE MY WOOD, PECKER?

I'M ALPINFOX, COCKSUCKERS!!!

Saturday and Sunday are the best days of the week.

I found a nuttool (the one I currently use) in the bottom of that chimney. I just saw a glint of something, so I clipped a couple slings together with my partner's nuttool on the end, blindly fished around for a while, and eventually hooked the biner it was on and hauled it back to daylight. I think that might have been my first piece of alpine booty ever.

bump

Tied runners are less strong because webbing (or ropes or whatever) are weakened by knots. I don't know about webbing, but the loss of strength of a rope by putting a knot in it is usually about 30%. If we assume that is approximately true for webbing as well, then webbing rated to 25kN would fail at 17.5kN in tied sling form; still plenty strong enough. For reference, a "typical" lead fall will only generate 4-6kN, though higher forces are obviously possible. My main objection to tied slings is their bulkiness, the inconvenience of the knot getting hung up on stuff, the (slight) chance that they could come untied, and their weight. The new generation of skinny slings (8-10mm) are very sleek and lightweight. Very nice. Once you've handled and used them, its hard to imagine going back to tied slings. If you are short on cash or happy with tied slings, stick with them. They are not unsafe. Just periodically check your knots to make sure they aren't "creeping" (tails getting shorter) which could lead to them coming untied at an inopportune time. I usually carry about 30' of 5-6mm cordelette for building anchors, slinging big boulders, etc. I'd use that stuff if I needed to bail off a route or rebuild a rap station. On infrequently traveled routes, I generally bring a bit more cheap webbing or cord that I wouldn't mind leaving behind.

Wahoo! Sounds great. Did either of you take any pictures? What's the rating?