Alpinfox

Oh, you're right. My bad. It only took you 10 hours base to summit. Way to send dude!

Ericb said: Ericb said:

May I have your attention please May I have your attention please Will the real slow party, please speed up? I repeat, Will the real slow party, please speed up? Uh... we're gonna have a problem here. Ya'll act like you never climbed multipitch before Hexes clangin' and taped hands sore Gettin' yer ass whooped like never before (TAKE!) It's the return of the... Oh wait, no way, you're kidding, He didn't just say, "Take" on a 5.8 did he? And Trask said... nothing you idiots! Trask is dead, he's stuffed in my haulbag! (Ha-ha!) 'Cause we're the slow party yeah the real slow party All you other slow parties are just imitating So won't the real slow party please speed up, please speed up, please speed up?

Seriously though, thanks for the TR. It's good to know about the snow and ice on the north side. Any pictures?

Congratulations on spelling Prusik correctly!

I climbed Outer Space averaging 2hrs/pitch and then my partner and I bivied on top. It was SWEEEEEET! edit: Here is what I actually did this weekend

You are going to get flamed for: not bailing, not getting there earlier, not negotiating a pass, not communicating with them, etc. Someone is going to say, "OS on a weekend? What did you expect?" Someone else will say, "...those climbers have just as much right to be on the route as you...". There will be some discussion about the popularity of the climb and how it lures climbers who probably aren't ready to climb the route in good style. G-Spotter will say something non-sequitur. Someone will ask if the slow climbers had their names duct taped on their helmets and were carrying lots of hexes. A few folks will chime in with irrelevant details that are the hallmark of the undercover chestbeat™ like, "Well, when I climbed OS car-to-car in 1.672 hrs without a windshirt.... Um... I forgot what I was gonna say after that." Just a heads up. This thread is gonna have legs. I can feel it. FUN!

Back to the subject of this thread: BUMP!

Are you talking about the totally destroyed one? That is a leftover from some gear testing/fall analysis that Mike Gauthier did after the Kropp accident. The first cam I ever bootied was a #1 forged friend at the base of Air Guitar. BTW, regarding your other question: Yes, I think Air Guitar is pretty typical for a 10a at Vantage. Maybe a touch softer than some others. And yes, it's probably easier than most 5.9s at Index.

I went to that Bluegrass festival two years ago and it was hands down the worst concert I have ever been to. And I once went to a Belinda Carlilse concert, so we're talking about something pretty goddamn awful. Sorry for the thread drift though; looks like a cool climb. I really like the first picture. The person on the left looks like a demented superhero.

tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, tink, etc.... What are YOU gonna do this weekend Mos?

Here is a picture from the CK route that was published in the NWMJ: Beautiful!

Blake, I assume you have seen this?

NO SHIT! Those backasswards crazy fuckers who do it the fucked up backwards way are fucking fucked!

Read this

You should consider a career in the circus. I met a girl in Vegas who makes a living shooting a bow and arrow with her feet while doing handstands.

It's not rocket science. Go get a bolt hanger and a draw and mess around with them. You will quickly see how that can happen. It's only happened to me once. Belayer: "Dude!, your last draw fell off!" Me: "Huh. That's crazy." As I clipped the next bolt from a good stance.

um, whats the problem here? not trying to be an ass, the guy just told me to buy them, i kinda thought they were all like that and just went climbing. so sure, make fun of me for being in that 98% that don't know what they are doing, i just wanted to go climb. a serious explaination of the rubber thingy would be nice, i'm just at work trying to ease a bit of my ignorance (though it won't stop me from climbing.) Dogbone draws are more likely to result in the "magic unclipping trick" if you fall on them while backclipped. They are also more likely to make your cams walk into cracks. (This was likely a factor in a well publicized fatal accident at Vantage a few years ago. CLICK HERE for more info) They are also more likely to do weird rotation things around bolts and come unclipped than a floppy draw. They DO make clipping easier though which is why they are still used. They can be nice to have while sprot climbing because they are stiff and you can hold them like a stick to clip that bolt that is just a little out of reach from your secure stance and they also make it easier to clip the rope to a freehanging draw because they don't flop around.

HOLY CRAP! a 7'2" woman!

I'm going to do a 7-pitch rock first ascent. PRE-SEND CHESTBEAT BEEEEYOTCH!

Link to Seattle Times website Judge restores national-forest protections, halting Bush logging plan By Tim Reiterman Los Angeles Times SAN FRANCISCO — A federal judge has restored broad protection to about one-third of national forest land in the lower 48 states, rejecting efforts by the Bush administration to relax a ban on logging in the most pristine forests. The decision by U.S. District Court Judge Elizabeth Laporte gives new life to one of the past decade's most hotly contested environmental decrees, a Clinton administration policy that sought to protect the parts of the forests that don't have roads in them. Laporte ruled that the Bush administration failed to conduct necessary environmental studies before making changes that allowed states to decide how to manage individual national forests. Although it does not put an end to the controversy, environmentalists and state officials believe that the ruling will make it difficult for the Bush administration to cut many trees or build new roads across the nearly 50 million acres of forest at issue. In Washington, the debate affects more than 2 million acres of backcountry managed by the U.S. Forest Service. Laporte sided with 20 environmental groups and four states — Washington, Oregon, California and New Mexico — that sued the Forest Service over the changes. "Today is a great day for Washington," Gov. Christine Gregoire said Wednesday, noting that Washingtonians overwhelming have supported the roadless rule in public comment. Officials at the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which oversees the Forest Service, said they disagree with the decision but have not decided whether to appeal. Dave Tenny, the USDA's deputy undersecretary for natural resources and environment, said the Bush administration had intended to conduct environmental reviews of its new policy — but only after receiving input from the states on how much protection to provide in their roadless areas. But critics of the Bush policy said that without a ban, there is nothing to stop new roads for logging or mineral exploration in the future. After years of debate and study, the ban on road construction was adopted by President Clinton shortly before he left office in 2001. A new Bush administration policy in 2005 rescinded the ban and replaced it with a rule that asks each governor to petition the federal government for lands deserving roadless protection. Although Laporte ruled the Bush policy was adopted without the environmental analysis and the study of impacts on endangered and threatened species required by federal laws, she affirmed the Forest Service's "authority to change policies from a uniform national approach strongly protecting roadless areas from human encroachment to a more localized approach permitting more roads and logging, providing that it follows the proper procedures." Even after repealing the rule, the Bush administration did not try to launch widespread logging in the roadless areas, which are some of the most difficult and expensive to access. Instead, in Washington, Oregon and other Western states, the Forest Service has largely focused on logging in areas that already have roads, and at levels greatly reduced from the boom years of the late 20th century. In the Okanogan and Wenatchee National Forest, for example, agency officials have sought to thin out fire-prone forests in roaded areas near towns, said Paul Hart, an agency spokesman. In southern Oregon, the Bush administration has pushed ahead with two salvage sales totaling more than 500 acres in a burn zone from a 2002 fire. Material from Seattle Times staff reporter Hal Bernton and The Associated Press is included in this report.

Mark, So what do YOU think causes those longitudinal striations in glacially polished bedrock. Rocks embedded in the glacier or silty water? What are the differences between "flutes", "furrows", "grooves", and "chattermarks"? The Glacier Glossary I found has the following:

Oh yeah? Well... I climbed Mt. Ingalls and got rained on. There! Take that! Jealous much???

I just wanted to give the panda a hug!

I'd expect silty water to result in more uniform erosion rather than the longitudinal striations that I see on slabs that glaciers have run across. It seems to me those features would more likely result from rocks gouging into the bedrock as they are pushed along by the glacier. But of course, I'm not a geologist.