Alpinfox

I'M ALPINFOX, COCKSUCKERS!!!

Saturday and Sunday are the best days of the week.

I found a nuttool (the one I currently use) in the bottom of that chimney. I just saw a glint of something, so I clipped a couple slings together with my partner's nuttool on the end, blindly fished around for a while, and eventually hooked the biner it was on and hauled it back to daylight. I think that might have been my first piece of alpine booty ever.

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Tied runners are less strong because webbing (or ropes or whatever) are weakened by knots. I don't know about webbing, but the loss of strength of a rope by putting a knot in it is usually about 30%. If we assume that is approximately true for webbing as well, then webbing rated to 25kN would fail at 17.5kN in tied sling form; still plenty strong enough. For reference, a "typical" lead fall will only generate 4-6kN, though higher forces are obviously possible. My main objection to tied slings is their bulkiness, the inconvenience of the knot getting hung up on stuff, the (slight) chance that they could come untied, and their weight. The new generation of skinny slings (8-10mm) are very sleek and lightweight. Very nice. Once you've handled and used them, its hard to imagine going back to tied slings. If you are short on cash or happy with tied slings, stick with them. They are not unsafe. Just periodically check your knots to make sure they aren't "creeping" (tails getting shorter) which could lead to them coming untied at an inopportune time. I usually carry about 30' of 5-6mm cordelette for building anchors, slinging big boulders, etc. I'd use that stuff if I needed to bail off a route or rebuild a rap station. On infrequently traveled routes, I generally bring a bit more cheap webbing or cord that I wouldn't mind leaving behind.

Wahoo! Sounds great. Did either of you take any pictures? What's the rating?

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Awesome report! Thanks for sharing. Wow! For anyone who doesn't know what a "moulin" is (I didn't), CLICK HERE

I've got a Marmot Col -20deg dryloft bag. Regular length. Used on one trip. Like new condition. Make me an offer alpinfox at yahoo dot com

The start of the OW is only ~12ft to the right of the top of the pillar. I clipped that fixed pin directly above the top of the pillar with a long sling, put one piece of gear in on the traverse with a long sling, and then I was in the OW. I moved our #4 Friend up with me until I could clip the fixed cam with a long sling then back cleaned the #4. Ropedrag wasn't a problem at all. I think clipping that pin was key as it kept the rope from running in the crack between the pillar and the face. I did have some significant rope drag issues on a few of the simulclimbing pitches though. Bobbing and weaving around towers/blocks/etc = vicious ropedrag.

I guess I should try jabbing a pencil through my hand again. It wasn't much fun as a kid when I tried it the one and only time in my life, but I'm an adult now and it might be fun! Thanks TradBetty!

This is the best thread in the history of CC.com.

I heard NOLSe was throwing some kind of kids ice cream social down in PDX this same weekend. Is that true?

Awwww.....

CBS, Do you have all the gear to fix cam trigger wires? Swages and all that stuff? I bet if you brought that stuff to ropeup, many folks would like to borrow it and would compensate you with beer and accolades.

I have used a siltarp (Golite Cave) quite a bit. When I am using it in the summer, I always take one of these as well: I find that the severed head of an unshaven dork really keeps the mosquitos away.

Ken is back in Africa now. Perhaps he could tele-commute to the PC?

I had one of CobraCommander's computer guru henchman take time out from their Viagra spam project to whip up that little gif gem.

Them's headbuttin' words!

you did? I don't see it. An example please? An example please? -Self-loving-narcisistic-tool-chestbeatingFox

you've never seen me 'climb' You should harness the power of your spray with a nozzle and use it to levitate your ass off the ground.

Hey maybe one of you moderator folks could add some of my eloquent and erudite info and tips to the FAQ!?!?

FUCK!

Why, that is an excellent question Sir ChucK! As the FAQ states: