Alpinfox

Climb: Lillooet-Synchronicity, Honeyman Falls, Cherry Ice Date of Climb: 2/8/2004 Trip Report: After a late night of drinking and shuffleboard at the "Big Time" brewery in Seattle, I drove up to Lillooet with dbb and Ken4ord from Seattle early Saturday morning. We climbed Honeyman Falls. It was pretty wet in spots, but we found a relatively dry and good-quality ice path up. We had a little trouble finding a way to rap down; it seems that most people walk off to the left down an old trail/road back to the car, but we left our packs at the base and wanted to climb Cherry Ice as well, so we eventually found a rap down. Being a novice ice climber, I led Cherry Ice and dbb and Ken4ord soloed it. Here is Dave leading on Honeyman p1: That night we attended the 2004 annual Lillooet Ice Fest which consisted of getting drunk with a bunch of geriatric dart players in the Canadian Legion Hall and then oohing and ahhing over some slides that Don Serl showed off in the basement. Following the slideshow, a pole-bouldering competition broke out with top honors going to Fern: Upon leaving the Legion Hall, we noted that my car had been tagged by the mysterious "Sheep Fucker" grafitti artist. He must have known there were three of us: We then retired to our Mile0 hotel room where we each enjoyed a tepid shower and wondered at the function of this knob on the wall... "But this one goes to 11" A painfully early wakeup eventually led to a breakfast at The Reynolds and a relatively early start on Synchronicity. We shoveled out a bit of a spot on Hwy99, parked my car, and headed straight down to the river to the log crossing. I am not a fan of log crossings, having had a couple of unpleasant adventures with such in the past, and was not looking forward to this part of the climb. However, the crossing proved to be quite secure albeit a bit of a workout. The workout continued in the snowy gully of the approach and we eventually arrived at the base of the first pitch; a pair of short WI2-ish steps. We discussed soloing this pitch, but I voted against this idea, so dbb led the first pitch, I followed, and Ken soloed the first pitch. I guess he felt pretty comfortable with that because he decided to solo the next pitch too. Here is Dave leading that one: I led the next pitch, which Ken also soloed, which brought us to the penultimate pitch of the climb, the WI4 (or 3+) pitch seen here: This pitch was a little rotten and fairly sustained. Ken soloed that one too. He is visible at the very top of the pitch in the photo above. One more short, but steep pitch, "The Forest Pitch", and we were at the top. This route, rising from the river all the way to the canyon rim, is certainly a classic - 5 pitches (or so) of quality ice climbing in an outstanding setting! Its such a wonderful climb, that all three of us are considering giving up our US citizenship and moving to Lillooet. Ken4ord, playboy that he is, has the names and numbers of several of the dart-playing vixens who offered to take him in, so we will have some initial support. As for our Canadian citizenship application, I plan to staple this photo to the front: Approach Notes: The direct and secure log crossing to Synchronicity (as opposed to the long death march through snow-covered talus from the bridge) is the way to go.

Open any folder, then click Tools, Folder Options On the "View" tab, scroll down and find "show hidden files and folders". click on it to select it. Also DESELECT "Hide protected operating system files" Those two changes will allow you see all of your files. Enjoy your newfound power!

"run your joints"?!?!?

I thought I posted this earlier, maybe a moderator clipped it?

Yeah, what a fucking moron! Everyone knows slovene... In a bit more constructive vein, could someone with access to the site please cut&paste the results here?

Light pollution:

Hey D, What problem is that in your second pic? The one in the buttermilks... and what is it rated? That sucker is STEEP!

Official site: http://www.kucinich.us/ not to be confused with http://www.kucinich.com I bet the Kucinich campaign would like to buy that website out... I read an NYT article about Kucinich a while back and don't remember much except that he had a lot of hippie-esque views and occasionally consulted with a crystal healer in New Mexico or something like that. He is unelectable.... or is he? How the hell did he get elected in Ohio? Not exactly a stronghold of crystal-power-believers.

ScrambledLegs - What? MattP - Nice one, but you need to clean your print/slide before you scan!

This picture was taken with an extremely shitty camera. But it's still pretty. Sarstrugi above Denali Pass:

Lummox is right; the boots that fit you are best. Rainier in July usually is not very cold, so you shouldn't have to worry about your feet freezing. You WILL have to worry about having some big heavy anchors on your feet and getting blisters and stuff like that, so use the boots that are the lightest weight/most comfortable. Plenty of people (myself included) have done comfortable summer Rainier ascents wearing lightweight leather boots (La Sportiva Glacier's for example). You could always bring along a pair of toe warmers for summit day if you brought lighterweight boots and were worried about the cold. I'd recommend lightweight alluminum crampons as well. Which route are you planning on doing? Happy Trails.

Snowpuppy. You might want to provide a bit more info. If your "expedition" is to the beaches of Karabi, I'd suggest flipflops.... etc.

It's a direct link to a quicktime movie file. It's a large file from a slow server, so it will take a while to download. The item featured is some kind of cordless drill attachment that allows you to drill in your ice screws. I don't think I'd want to haul a drill on an ice climb, but it sure is fast.

Very nice!

I be guessin' you be fessin' Ya best show up if ya dont wanna be shut up. Represent!

BP! I think I'll make it tonight. Ain't got shite else goin' on, might as well live the city life while I'm in town. -P

Nice! I bet you got some sweet pictures with red rocks/white snow? Speaking of sheep. Do you know if those "mountain sheep" you see in the Fraser Valley are the same thing as "Big Horn Sheep"? Or maybe "Dall Sheep"? Sounds like a great trip.

Did you say "a mix"? GlassgowKiss' Mix: Alpinfox's Mix: p.s. It was COLD up there yesterday. Toe/hand warmers were in order. Nice ice though.

Which routes did you climb? Did you pick up any hitchhikers?

Hey did you get any pictures of the guy who climbed AFTER texplorer? That would be me... It's a fun route. Nice work MisterE!

So which one of you wankers dropped your pack off the climb on Saturday? HAHAHAHA! Edit: Please forgive me. I've been hanging out with PolishBob and IveBeenDrinking. p.s. WANKERS!!

Climb: Mt. Baker-Pan Dome Falls Date of Climb: 1/22/2004 Trip Report: I climbed at Pan Dome Falls with GlasgowKiss today. It's a nice area. Super easy approach, nice 50m tall ice, and even has a couple of bolted drytool/mixed lines off to the right (an M7 and a M8). GlassgowKiss led up the right side of the falls and set up a toprope and we did laps. We tried out some leashless tools that he borrowed; damn those things are nice! But then again, my tools are old, straight-shaft X-15s, so a couple of sharpened sticks would probably be an improvement for me. Pan Dome Falls in the afternoon when the weather arrived: Alpinfox trying to look like he knows what he is doing: GlasgowKiss showing how it's done: Thanks GlasgowKiss! Gear Notes: Used Charlet Moser Quark Ergo ice tools. BAD ASS! Shoulda had some beer. Approach Notes: Easy approach

Anybody have any experience with the Metolius "Easy Aiders" and "Easy Daisies"? They seem pretty ideal, but I haven't done a lot of aid climbing. http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/easyaiders.htm