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Alpinfox

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Everything posted by Alpinfox

  1. Damn those are some big flippers you got boy! It's a long shot, but call the North Face Store in Seattle and see if they have any La Sportiva boots in that size. If so, they will be 75% off.
  2. Tiblocs are perfect for crevasse rescue. They are lightweight, fast to setup, autoblocking, quickly resettable, and work beautifully. It's good to know how to make a prusik Z-rig, but once you use tiblocs, you'll always carry them instead. Check out diagram 3c on the tibloc info sheet and note that you can put a pulley on the "lower" carabiner to reduce friction (I always do this, I don't know why Petzl doesn't show one). Petzl Tibloc info p.s. and "Prusik" is the correct spelling You would think CBS of all folks would get that right!
  3. I thought of rifling through Dwayner's trash, but I thought it might be more practical (and cleaner) to buy my own. Where can I find the best deal on Rawl (aka Powers) bolts (3/8" and/or 1/2") and bolt hangers? I might also be interested in "wedge" bolts. Seattle local or online is fine. pm me or reply An interesting link: http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/mechbolts.htm
  4. Thanks guys, you're the bestest. Would you rap off of this?
  5. So do I have to believe in astrology to climb with you? Is your birthday Oct.23? You should know that I have not graduated from the mountaineers course and I consider myself somewhat of a bozo.
  6. I've been nominated for a SNAFFIE!!! Oh, I'm so honored! I'm just all aflutter! I never thought this would happen, it's just a dream come true! I can't thank you all enough. I'd like to thank the academy... and, papa and mama alpinfox, and... oh... damn where are my notes... Best (most entertaining) TR: Unkle Trikster's Stranger than Friction or that one about the thunderstorm at the UW rock (link anyone?) Favorite threads: So many! but "Quotes About Climbing" is definitely a favorite.
  7. Dru, or other geologist-type person, Please explain "karst" to an ignoramous such as myself?
  8. Alpinfox

    Too many E's

    Ahhh..... what bliss.
  9. Ken said: W. Arete on Eldo & Early Morn Spire ____________________________________ I gotta go on a hike and see how my knee feels. Maybe I am going to be a cragger from now on In general, my plan is to go climbing with Fred Beckey again and steal his "Little Black Book". Then I'll have all kinds of projects to work on! First Ascents
  10. Alpinfox

    Too many E's

    Ahem... You sir, have blown my cover. I demand satisfaction! It will be Boschs at 30m! p.s. My name isn't really Eric everybody...
  11. Freakin' awesome Tex! I'm so jealous. Must get to IC soon...
  12. Alpinfox

    MUG SHOT!!!

    While thumbing through the Spring 2004 Patagucci catalog, pondering all the nice stuff I can't afford and all the hot chicks who wouldn't give me the time of day, something jumped out at me. There, in a photo by Tim Matsui on p.14, in the background, is a picture of one of cc.com's finest and most prolific spraylords. Who could it be!??!? And why isn't he wearing his trask trousers?
  13. WOOOHOOO! Thanks Dave. They still have harnesses, rock shoes, boots, a few sterling ropes, small hexes, small nutz, a few knifeblades, perlon by the spool, BD carabiners (no ovals, lockers, or wiregates), ATCs, water-ice crampons, a couple of crappy "MountainEars"-style ice axes... No cams left. I got pretty much the last of em Wish I had gotten there earlier, but I still got some good stuff. $5 for a new harness
  14. I agree with Tex (and others) that the "no downclimbing allowed whatsoever" requirement for an "onsight" or "redpoint" is absurd. By extension of that arguement, any downward motion of your body would constitute a failure on the first attempt. For the record, I think this argument is pretty dumb, but here I am adding to it, so I'm dumb too. A wise man (and founder of this website) once said, "everyone on the internet is stupider for having read this thread". My answers: Yes, Yes, Pink
  15. WOW! Thanks a lot everybody! Assuming I can smuggle my biohazardous climbing shoes onto the plane, it looks like I will have some climbing options. MisterE has warned me about sketchy protection in those "eyebrow" features at LGR, so if I go there I think I'll start with a non-challenging route. Can anyone recommend any hot 4th class routes? Thanks again for the suggestions and I'll pursue some of the contact info you guys provided when I have a better idea of what my schedule and transportation situation is going to be. Cheers.
  16. I don't know if I will be able to borrow a car yet. If I can get wheels, I'll drive a few hours (up to 4 say?) for good climbing. I'd prefer to do roped climbs, but if I can't find partners, I'll do some bouldering. Really!?!??! Surely not in April, but I'm surprised there is any at all in Appaliachia!
  17. Howdy ya'll, I'll be in Asheville, NC for a cousin's wedding from Apr.22-27 (I think those are the dates) and if there is climbing to be had around there, I wanna "had" me some. Recommendations? Is it worth stinking up my nice wedding clothes by throwing the rock shoes in my luggage? Anybody in that area, or gonna be in that area, that might wanna show a Cascade climber how cool appalachian climbing can be? I don't know what kind of transportation options I will have and I'm not sure of my exact schedule, but I'm sure I could squeeze a two or three day trip in there somewhere. Cheers. p.s. If you read this and want to contact me, but don't want to register on cc.com (I don't blame you, everyone here is a bunch o' wankers and whiners anyway ) then email me at alpinfox(at)yahoo(dot)com. I check that account periodically.
  18. The route is in the book as Ground Hog Day 5.7 (prolly a bit easier though) on Tumwater Buttress. A set of stoppers and a few cams should suffice. Contrary to what Alpinfox said the route is not new, just "rediscovered" Thanks Slaphappy, I looked in the new guidebook this weekend and saw that my grading estimate was a little low. Thanks for clearing that up.
  19. Looks nice Dave! dumping the "dbb" eh?
  20. MMMmmm..... Transfattyacids.....
  21. Mr.E, check the "der" post for a "private" message.
  22. Those store-bought, $7/package, Mountain-Aire things are definitely bullshit and I've never bought any of them. I did score a bunch from the 'free box' at Talkeetna Air Taxi, but I haven't eaten them. However, I've had some damn tasty homemade dehydrated stuff. Dehydrated veggies added to pasta+cheese or soup or whatever are mighty tasty. Dehydrated fruit (Mangoes! Bananas!) are really tasty and good for you. My dried mangoes were really popular on the glacier and I was able to trade them for good stuff. I've heard of people dehydrating entrees (like Pad Thai from your favorite local restaurant) and supposedly that works pretty well too.
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