Alpinfox

Squidy, I had my head above the table for most of the night, but I didn't see you. Mighty good sounds you missed out on... Tsk Tsk

I saw Mr. Natty tonight and he might be a bit slow tomorrow morning. I'll try to get there by 10. I've got a green Suby station wagon.

Mr.E, Did you find a partner? If not, I'm interested. What time are you going to be at the lot? Anyone else?

I was kinda interested in looking at the N. side of Chair Peak tomorrow, but it might be a little too warm. If anyone thinks "it'll go", let me know. Otherwise, I'll probably go to Index. Anyone care to carpool/partner up? The 65th street park&ride under I-5 is a good place to meet... Peace ya'll

Sounds great! I'm pretty sure your friend DID NOT have a severe concussion if he was able to continue climbing, descend, eat, etc... Concussions suck.

MMMmmmm.... navel smear...

Whatchu got in mind you big snowy alaskan peak of a guy you?

What would Muir and Thoreau think of the US Government charging its citizens to visit public land? If I stay in a campground (bathrooms, tables, firepits, etc) I expect to be charged something for the goods/services I am recieving and which were constructed for my use. However, if I park my car on a road that was probably originally built using federal money to allow private companies to collect resources at below cost (mining, trees, whatever) and then head off into the wilderness, then I don't think I should have to pay anything. I believe that wild lands are sacred - our national church if you will - and I don't think the government should exclude people from those places just because they don't have $85. But more importantly, I just don't think we should put ANY price on wilderness. It should be FREE and open to anyone, anytime... except homosexual couples; they should have to pay. A more eloquent person than myself says: In my view the essence of the Wilderness experience is the chance for solitude, spontaneity, freedom, personal self-discovery, and living unfettered for a few days in a "vestige of primitive America." I believe the framers of the Wilderness Act visualized this all-important psychological component and understood that the mental experience of Wilderness is as important as the physical. Sadly, fees are the antithesis and nemesis of all of the above. One should not attempt to place a price tag on a Wilderness experience – it transcends monetary value and constitutes the birth right of every American. Defeating these fees would be a huge contribution to preserving the core concept of Wilderness.

Squidy! I'll totally give ya a beeeelay on yer sick C.S. project bro! YOU CAN SEND IT! You should ask around here for some beta; I hear there is a crazy dyno belly-flop move about half-way up. Tex - Thanks, definately some nice peaches. I hope I run into you at Smiff again sometime soon. Good work on Yocum and nice pics! Cheers.

Went to Mars Bar last night. Going to Lo-Fi tonight I have high hopes for the show tonight.

Yeah, Bend is B.Y.O.B. p.s. I bet I'm gonna get flamed on the NEW WOMEN'S FORUM for that one

The music at Lo-Fi will be great! Cover is $5. Just up the street (north) a block or so is the Mars Bar where there will also be great music, but for FREE! "Merch" is Hammond B3 Organ, Drums, and Geeetar. Jazz/funk stuff? I'm not good at describing music. Dirtbag climbers unite!

I know it's not quite the same, but:

Nice TR Iceslut; thanks for posting it! Isn't Strobach in Washington?

Fooman, Welcome to cc.com. Here is what the south face route looked like on 3/2/04: It has snowed since then. In the state it was in then, it would be a chilly/wet climb in rock shoes, but not bad in boots. There was lots of snow at the top that would probably make the topout difficult. You can see most of the route from I-90, just don't wreck your car gaping at it! Best of luck and please post a TR when you get back! Cheers, -AF

Olympus Stylus 300. I don't think mine is a "D", but I "dunno". Edit: OH! "D" = "Digital". Yeah, I'm dumb. It's been a good one. Doesn't take great macro shots and I don't think the picture quality is as good as the big honkin' Olympus I had before, but it's small, light, "weatherproof", and has an all-metal body (I've dropped it a couple times). I'm pleased. Squidy! Let's go climbin! I wanna hang out with you more cuz judging from Icegirl's reaction, you attract a lot of ladies. Mr.E - Has the route been redpointed before? Is it the case that the person who redpoints an open project gets to name it even if they didn't develop it? So it's 5.14what?

Hello Communist! Your english getting better me think? For inspiration maybe you check out http://www.engrish.com/ Thank you for allow mutant chihuahua to post on human website!

Hmmm... I'll probably be there around 6:30ish. I'll be wearing some remarkably stinky climbing shoes and a "God Bless America and Ollie North" shirt. Shouldn't be too many of those around. I imagine that BP is enroute and therefore incommunicado. Don't know when he'll be there. Cheers.

Boyz, I be down fer some fantastic plastic pullin', but I'm not gonna go fer the full enchainment witcha. What time you gonna be at SG? BP, you still at work?

It was amazing how still and in control Mr. Caldwell was at all times and how precise his movements were. He must not be related to Elvis. It was also incredible watching him just rest while laybacking off of the arete (just below where he is in the picture). I'm sure it's wicked hard there and he just sat there for close to 10 minutes before heading up the arete and into the crux just above. WOW! I hope he gets the redpoint and names it something nifty. BTW: Is Ian Caldwell related to Tommy? I ain't up on that climbing groupie gossip shit. DBB - *PTTTTHBB!!!* Can you get me a job at Der Institute Der Biowhatnot? I'd take it, assuming they pay me a ridiculous salary, give me a personal assistant, and 90 days of paid vacation/year. You can tell them those terms are SOMEWHAT negotiable. Oh, and nice avatar picture!

Max, WOW! Great research and pics (even if you were a bit off in some of the specifics locales). Billcoe, I'm gonna go out on a limb (hehehe) here and say that MOST of the precariously balanced deadfall would have gotten blown over and stabilized during the winter storms. If you have your heart set on that route, I wouldn't dismiss the idea of doing it this year. CARPE ANNUM! Maybe hike up there a bit and check things out? Note: I haven't been up there since the fire , but I wouldn't put one of my dream routes on hold in this situation.

For more tasty Smiff pics, see my Smiff photo TR: OHHH!! IT'S SO TASTY!

Climb: Smiff-Cruel Sister, Delerium Tremens, Blue Light Special Date of Climb: 3/8/2004 Trip Report: Senor BobbyPeru and I decided to avoid the cc.com infestation of Smiffy by heading down there for a Monday/Tuesday sendfest. Monday we headed to the lower gorge and were basking in the sun; big smiles on our faces and no shirts on our backs. We saw this bat on the hike in: He didn't look to be in very good shape and had some kind of line/fillament that seemed to be sticking out of his back. Since he was out in full daylight, I didn't think he was going to last very long. Anybody know what species? So after hanging out with the bat for a bit, we warmed up on Dire Wolf, a pretty nice 5.8 crack, and Sitting Duck, a pretty nice 5.9 crack. Now, a note to you newbies out there just getting started leading cracks. It's important to have a very experienced climber check out your gear placements and give you some feedback. This guy checked out a couple of my cam placements and didn't seem to like the fact that they were in his living room: After getting schooled by the "Safety Lizard", I felt confident enough to lead "Cruel Sister" which is one of the sweetest collections of hand jams I've encountered: We toproped some stuff including Crack-A-No-Go (11b)which I got without falling! and Catalyst (12a/b) which I hung like a dog on. I didn't get all the moves, but I got most of em. We then headed over to the front side and I led Blue Light Special which I didn't quite get a redpoint on (WTF?). Those crux holds could use a good brushing! On the way back to the car, we saw a guy clinging to the seemingly holdless vertical wasteland of Picnic Lunch Wall. A quick purusal of Mr. Watt's bible revealed that the "route" was a 5.14a? project and a quick purusal of the back muscles attached to the climber and the little blonde honey belaying led Mr. Peru to speculate that we were most likely witnessing Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden enjoying some Oregon sunshine. Here he is: After watching him take a couple falls (wimp), but eventually get to the chains, we headed across the bridge where I got a couple of nice sunset shots: We headed into Bend that night and checked out the Deschutes Brewery. As it turns out, Monday nights are Locals nights (cheap beer) so the place was packed! For some reason, none of the four women there wanted to step up and chat with a couple of stinky climber lowlifes such as ourselves... WAZZUP LADIES!?!? A solid night of drinking can make you a little shaky the next day, so I experienced a little "Delerium Tremens" while leading this steep corner hand crack: I had the shakes so bad I even dropped my NUTZ; something I've never done before. The sober Mr. Peru showed me the proper technique for this pitch STEMMING! I climbed a couple of unknown bolted routes on the west side of "the mudpile" just uphill from Delerium Tremens. If anyone knows what these were, I'd like to hear names/grades. The first felt 5.9/10a the second felt like 5.8/9 with one reachy/thin 10b move. I think this pic is of the reachy 10b move on the second (further uphill) climb. I think both climbs were 8 bolts to the anchor. Second climb had a snaplink anchor. Anyone? Well, it was a fun weekend. Nice to be out in the sun and climbing some sweet cracks! Cheers to Mr. Peru. Gear Notes: Bring your safety lizard