Alpinfox

That boulder was blown apart!

Climb: Hope Ice-Jah Loveth the Leftists Date of Climb: 1/14/2005 Trip Report: Fern, SpecialED, and I met in Hope on Friday morning and went looking for some ice to climb. Since we were getting a late start due to some route finding errors made by the Americans on the team, we wanted something pretty close. "Jah Loveth the Righteous", sounded like just the ticket, so off we went. We parked on the south side of Hwy1 next to a paintball place and hiked for about 15-20 minutes up a mountian biking trail (complete with rails and jumps and all that stuff) to the base of a gully which forked left and right. Having left the guidebook in the car, we couldn't remember which way we were supposed to go, but there was obviously ice in the left hand fork, so we went that way. Fern led the first pitch which consisted of about 35m of WI3. A bit of hiking and scrambling through talus and punching through the ice into the creek in a couple of spots led us to a fairly short WI3 step with funky "artichoke ice" below a large chockstone. I think it was between the 2nd and 3rd ice steps that we detoured out of the gully proper up into the forest on the climber's left side to bypass some large rocks. The 3rd ice step was a thin smear in an awkward rocky corner that SpecialEd led after clipping a stubby screw that was only halfway sunken into the glorified verglass covering the rock. edit: (the "Missing Pitch") After surmounting this obstacle we climbed through a short but steep and delicate ice curtain in a narrow constriction of the gully. 25m, WI3+. Nice lead Fern! The fifth and final pitch we climbed was a steep ice slab with a 4-5m column at the top making for a fairly sustained 45-50m pitch. SpecialEd led this and rated it WI4. There was another 20-25m of ice above, but due to the lateness of the day, we decided to head down. After getting back to the car and consulting the guidebook, we saw that "Jah Loveth the Righteous" ascends the gully on the right , so we did a route that wasn't in the guidebook. If its a new route, we'll call it "Jah Loveth the Leftists". That night we stayed at the Swiss Chalet which sucked due to tepid shower and feeble heat in the room. For the same price, a few other Seattlite cc.comers got a room with blazing hot showers and fireplace, so we hung out in their room a bit. The next night we stayed at the "Town Hotel" (or something) across the street from the Swiss Chalet and it was much better (Jacuzzi, Pool, Kitchenette! ). On Saturday Fern and I climbed some four pitch thing to the right of Bridal Falls while SpecialEd went off on a soloing adventure. I led the first two pitches (WI2+/3ish and Fern led the last two WI3/3+). On Sunday we went back to try to climb "Jah Loveth the Righteous", but there was very little ice in the gully, so we did a lot more talus hiking than climbing and never did break out the ropes. It then started raining, so we went to a "beer parlour" (Canadian for "pub") and watched football. It sure was nice to get some ice climbing in without having to drive all the way to Lillooet - I wish that stuff formed up more often. Thanks SpecialEd and Fern for a great weekend! Gear Notes: According to SpecialEd, my straight-shafted X15s are "scary". Need new tools. On the other hand, my new CM Grade 8 monopoint crampons and La Sportiva Nepal Extreme boots rocked! Thanks North Face sale!

I met Kit Lewis at a pub club many moons ago and we talked about possibly climbing something together. He wanted to go aid climbing and I said I didn't have much experience aiding, but would be happy to go free climbing with him. He asked me how good of a free climber I was and I fed him some lie... he responded with, "well, I'm a SOLID 5.6 climber. SOLID!".

A google search for "Tina, eat the ham!" reveals all:

I am a competent 5.6, WI2, A1 leader. I can usually second 5.9 without falling off. I see you got that copy of my climbing resume I emailed to you. edit: In the interest of full disclosure, I should add that my only 5.6 leads have been IN THE GYM, so knock that down a grade or two for my outdoor leading ability. Now, are we ready for the GIRTH PILLAR!!?!?

WTF? Is this some kinda cryptic Nodder stuff?

Focused?

When I'm going climbing for the first time with a new partner I usually DOWNPLAY my experience and ability (as humble as it is). That way they don't get me on something "scawy". Plus, if they have greatly exaggerated their ability and try to lead something on which they are gripped and helpless, I might be able to get us out of the pickle.

I commissioned a couple of crack-smokin' Meer Cats and the little buggers knocked it out in about 5 minutes! I'll pass your compliments along to them.

Cool! Too bad you didn't get any pics. Any idea how often that thing forms up?

Gary, Tell the fucker that you going to take their $30 and enroll them in a remedial english class. Bunch o' ignorant trollips at UW apparently...

I think tomorrow is Fred Beckey's Birthday. >80,000 vertical feet of skiing for him.

right. OK, I deleted most of the marriage proposals and booty call notes.

Dreamin' is 12a R in the guidebook. PP, you talkin' about "Watts Tots" 12b? "...short crux finesses a boulder sequence above the 5th bolt..."

Ya'll think it's a good first Smith 12 project? Others?

My advice: 1) open a window 2) crawl out window 3) rope up the neighborhood dogs and mush into town 4) go to store and buy a grinder (AND BEER!) 5) enjoy.

Happy Bday MrE!

Check it yo: web page <----- CLICK HERE! ^^^^^^^CLICK THERE! "The load on a pulley is equal to the sum of the loads on the ropes on either side of it."

I lived in PDX for 6 years before moving to SEA and have lived here for 4.5 years now. I prefer PDX for culture, traffic, cost-of-living, and "scene". I prefer SEA for it's proximity to the "real" mountains, but I think living someplace outside of Seattle (preferably to the north) would be even better. I think the added 6hrs of RT driving time makes a huge difference and I know I wouldn't be making many weekend trips to Hwy20 areas if I still lived in PDX. However, I'd go to Smith a lot more often and would be a better sport climber than I am now.

Here is a picture of the face of Robie Reid: I believe Dru Sprayshaw has some pictures of NF of RR posted on Bivouac.com, but since I'm not a "paying member" I can't see them. Perhaps Sir Dru will post a pic for us here?

GO MAKE THE THIRD ASCENT! And report back with your findings.

Have fun in Rwanda Ken!: Group Shot: Apr 2004: Jul 2004: Jan 2005:

This climb is probably "IN" right now and I think someone might enjoy doing it in the next few days. See my photo gallery for some pics of "HTGT"

Can I sleep in your bathtub?

Are there inexpensive hotels in Hope?