Drove down to Smith with Mr.E on Wednesday night. This was to give us four days of mud-pullin, but it started raining on Saturday afternoon, so we came home. I feel sorry for the folks who drove down Friday night or Saturday morning.
One of the highlights of the trip was a two pitch mid-5.10 bolted route called "Bay of Pigs" on the Red Wall just to the right of "Dances with Clams". I highly recommend it. It features zenolith tuggin' and edge crimpin' on a very steep wall. The second pitch features a section that is very steep (>90degrees), and looks really intimidating, but is actually pretty easy (5.9ish).
We also climbed "The John Galt Line" (10+/11-) which is my favorite of E's routes at Smith. It features a lunging move to a big pocket. Good sporty fun. It starts in a little alcove behind some blocks to the right of the "Jete" + "Easy Reader" area.
On Saturday we started to climb "Free Lunch", a 5-pitch free route that ascends Picnic Lunch Wall. The first two pitches involve some terrifying traversing on some of the worst rock I have ever climbed on (5.10-). Supposedly it gets a lot better after that and has a **** 5.8 handcrack up high, but we bailed due to approaching rain clouds after the first pitch. We were right above "Five Easy Pieces", so we TRed that a couple of times. It's not easy, but it's FUN! I've heard that it is a good route for those trying to break into the 5.12 range. While none of the moves are all that difficult (I don't think there is a "5.12" move on it), the pump is fierce! I need to get into much better shape if I'm to get that one.
After flailing on 5EP a while, it was raining so we drove home.