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Alpinfox

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Everything posted by Alpinfox

  1. Lots of people have posted trip reports about Hood recently, so check those out in the OREGON CASCADES forum. Snow conditions - The lack of recent precipitation and recent freeze thaw cycles have likely stabilized the snow up there pretty well, so I doubt you will have any avalanche concerns. For future reference, you should bookmark THIS PAGE. Snowshoes - God no. Take skis if you got em. Drop them at the hogsback and ski down. If you don't have skis, at least take a plastic bag or something to aid your glissade on the way down. Start Time - Depends on what you want. You want a chance to be alone on the mountain and see the sunrise from the summit? Midnight or 1am. Want to sleep in and get a sunburn? Start later. Sun-softened snow can make for nice climbing conditions (easy/secure step kicking) if it isn't too deep. It can also ball up your crampons and make you slip (more of a problem on the descent).
  2. Speaking of Slesse, this FWA of NR Stuart makes me think that this is probably a good time for the 2nd WA of NEB Slesse. Colin/Mark's next project? In any case, congrats to you guys. Quite a feather in the cap!
  3. I did the Eklutna traverse in 1992. It was one of my first real backcountry experiences ever, and still one of my fondest memories. I saw a WOLVERINE loping along the Eagle glacier !! It really would be a tragedy if snowmobiles were allowed up there, but the 'bilers lobby is VERY strong in AK. Thanks for getting the word out on this issue.
  4. Alpinfox

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  5. Yowza. Thanks Erden.
  6. Is this a troll? If so you got me; I'm one gullible SOB. What is the "proper" way to uncoil a factory coiled rope.
  7. What about Carver? I used to go there pretty often when I lived in Stumptown. There's a fun 11b, a good 10b, and a "5.9" with one hard move.
  8. Bullshit.
  9. Could someone PM me with the # please?
  10. This was a good thread. Routes I have/would repeat: WF NEWS, WA Pass DEB SEWS, WA Pass Lib Crack, WA Pass Outer Space + Orbit, SCW, Alpine Lakes SF Prusik, Alpine Lakes Davis Holland-Lovin' Arms, Index Synchronicity, Lillooet Zebra-Zion, Smith NE Ridge Triumph (views!; the climbing is not that great) SF Tooth (so close to home)
  11. Alpinfox

    RIP Duke

    "Myths and legends die hard in America. We love them for the extra dimension they provide, the illusion of near-infinite possibility to erase the narrow confines of most men's reality. Weird heroes and mould-breaking champions exist as living proof to those who need it that the tyranny of ''the rat race'' is not yet final."
  12. Let's see 'em! What is the road situation now?
  13. GOSPODOR
  14. Oh lord. I'm doomed.
  15. My favorite picture of the trip is attached. I didn't take many. I know you got some good ones E; post em up!
  16. Alpinfox

    RIP Duke

    I feel the same way about you after reading your rude and venomous attack on someone in a memorial thread. Fuck you.
  17. Way to go Pete! Great stuff. K I L L I C E ! ! !
  18. It doesn't exist. Nothing to see here, please move along.
  19. After reading with rapt attention your erudite treatise on synthetic polymer runner construction and the potential applications thereof, I, for one, would find it most elucidating to hear what your other favorite subjects are. The list please.
  20. and the prepared.
  21. Yeah, I saw that Bill. Thanks. Mr.E had climbed Free Lunch previously, and knew about the face climbing alternative to the left of the grovelly chimney, so that is the way we were planning to go. I was looking forward to the handcrack part; too bad.
  22. Alpinfox

    RIP Duke

    Eulogy Final paragraph: "May the kindly trickster gods collect you, Hunter Thompson, and drive you to where the buffalo roam, where your mind can unspool itself forever and your spirit can go on groping unsuspecting tits and trashing hotel rooms. You have earned it, Golden and Immortal Son of Classic Letters. Rest in Whatever You Would Prefer to Peace. We, the filthy and leaderless children who cherish your legacy, salute you, and will honor you with every bullet fired out of our car windows toward the unmarked desert sky. "
  23. We got 2.5 days of good tuff pullin' you smartass Kanuck! Viva Americana!
  24. Drove down to Smith with Mr.E on Wednesday night. This was to give us four days of mud-pullin, but it started raining on Saturday afternoon, so we came home. I feel sorry for the folks who drove down Friday night or Saturday morning. One of the highlights of the trip was a two pitch mid-5.10 bolted route called "Bay of Pigs" on the Red Wall just to the right of "Dances with Clams". I highly recommend it. It features zenolith tuggin' and edge crimpin' on a very steep wall. The second pitch features a section that is very steep (>90degrees), and looks really intimidating, but is actually pretty easy (5.9ish). We also climbed "The John Galt Line" (10+/11-) which is my favorite of E's routes at Smith. It features a lunging move to a big pocket. Good sporty fun. It starts in a little alcove behind some blocks to the right of the "Jete" + "Easy Reader" area. On Saturday we started to climb "Free Lunch", a 5-pitch free route that ascends Picnic Lunch Wall. The first two pitches involve some terrifying traversing on some of the worst rock I have ever climbed on (5.10-). Supposedly it gets a lot better after that and has a **** 5.8 handcrack up high, but we bailed due to approaching rain clouds after the first pitch. We were right above "Five Easy Pieces", so we TRed that a couple of times. It's not easy, but it's FUN! I've heard that it is a good route for those trying to break into the 5.12 range. While none of the moves are all that difficult (I don't think there is a "5.12" move on it), the pump is fierce! I need to get into much better shape if I'm to get that one. After flailing on 5EP a while, it was raining so we drove home.
  25. Dru said: and
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