pindude

The below was just sent to me by my Canadian relatives. I don't have a source other than that, but knowing the quality of stuff that comes out of Nelson, this promises to be a great new guidebook. ---------------- Subject: FYI: West Kootenay Rock Guide *West Kootenay Rock Guide has been completed* Nelson, BC June 14, 2009 - After two years of researching, writing, and literally climbing the walls, the West Kootenay Rock Guide has been completed. Co-authored by Aaron Kristiansen and Vince Hempsall, the rock climbing guidebook will be launched at a party at Elephant Mountain Gallery on Friday, June 19. West Kootenay Rock is a 160-page, full-colour, perfect-bound book that includes summaries of 24 rock climbing areas and over 400 routes around Nelson, Castlegar, Salmo, Kaslo, Rossland and the Slocan Valley (including the Valhalla Mountain range). It also includes the work of professional photographers Melissa Welsh and Steve Ogle featuring the beautiful scenery of the region and action shots of local climbers on some of the area's best routes. "Aaron, Melissa and I have put a lot of blood and sweat into this guidebook and I'm really impressed with the final product," says Vince Hempsall. "It's beautiful - cliff topos, accurate route descriptions and access information all interspersed with amazing colour photographs." West Kootenay Rock will be distributed by Mountain Equipment Co-op, which plans to sell it in their Victoria, Vancouver, Calgary and Edmonton locations, as well as smaller outdoor retail stores in Squamish, Revelstoke, Canmore, and Spokane, Washington. Locally, the guidebook will be available at Valhalla Pure Outfitters and Gravity Climbing Gym. "We've been amazed at the hype surrounding this guide," says Vince. "On a daily basis people approach us asking, 'Is it here yet?' I think its launch is perfectly timed because we're starting to see a renewed interest in route development in the area and more and more tourists are coming to the West Kootenays to climb the spectacular rock here." The guidebook was produced by Nelson publishing firm Wonow Media Ltd. and will retail for $26.95. The official launch party for the book will be held at Elephant Mountain Gallery, 535 Baker St. in Nelson on Friday, June 19 beginning at 7:00 p.m. The event will feature slideshows, wine and cheese and a meet and greet with the writers and photographers. -------------- Anyone interested in contacting the author, PM me, and I'll pass on the info.

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGh2mRLE1O0

Also, in Coeur d'Alene, there's bouldering on granite at the west base of Tubbs Hill, near shoreline. Parking and TH at or near the CDA resort.

Another vehicle break-in at Little Si last Thursday, June 11, but with positive ID on the thieves: http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7975737

Quite the event, Paul. I'm glad for you that, overall, it turned out okay. Just so you know, your little guy can cook for our family anytime: by your description, he's already a better cook than my wife. I'm opening one for you right now.

does she climb hotel room walls? Appears to me her bean IS covered.

Heard the place was crazy wild with folks last weekend. I know a couple handfuls of climbers who were up at Aasgard, and put the query out to them. Thanks for asking, and good luck getting the cam and pix back to the owner.

Nice TR Tim. Yes, it's the Tooth, but good on you for not only doing it but showing others too. Cheers.

It's true - I've seen him. He's the guy with glasses that used to climb. Used to?! Bet I can still out-climb you!

Same for me as for dreder: started using "take" when first clipping bolt lines in 80s, then started using it for getting held on trad as well. "Take" is actually short for "Take me." Keep your commands basic and simple. The command "slack" has always been used to communicate to the belayer to give rope, not take it in. If you want rope taken in, then better to be saying "tension." But what do I know. I'm just an old guy who's lucky to get out of bed nowadays. And I don't know what secret language some of the younger climbers like to use with each other, especially those coming out of the gym.

Sometimes not a bad idea to change the subject line/headline to the present tense, especially for those of us with friends currently on Denali. My condolences to the friends and families of Tatsuro Yamada and Yuto Inoue.

Wow. I missed this when it happened. What an incredible read. I personally don't know any of the principals, but hats off to Pax, Dave, others who helped, and most of all blessings to Sam and his bride!

Having some SAR experience and being surrounded by family members in medicine, I have to second kevino. People are generally very respectful around the dead. Any gallows humor-type statements are typically made to ease the gravitas of the situation, not out of disrespect. Yours was one incident, and not a seemingly normal one at that. I guess you haven't read John Long. Rescuers find dead guy. Rescuer1=>Rescuer2: His jacket looks like it might fit you. The two stories may well be as similar as apples and oranges. On one side I don't want to support a book that is untruthful and disparaging, and on the other I'm intrigued. I'm going to have to read author Bree Loewen's actual words in their entirity before I form my own opinion of what she expressed, although I sure don't have the inside knowledge it seems at least a few of you here have. As far as Gary's reference to John Long goes, I don't recall Long telling that particular story, which, if I have it right, is a true but tragic one that's been retold many times since it originally happened in the Valley. Steve Roper tells the original one (read his "Camp 4"). Roper first climbed the Lost Arrow Spire when he was 18, and subsequently met young Irving Smith, who, especially once he spoke to Roper, wanted to become the youngest to climb it as a 17-year-old. In early 1960, Irving somehow fell from his rap rope near the notch and ended up 500 feet down the chimney, coming finally to rest on a chockstone. His body was considered inaccessible by the rangers, who out of respect closed the route for a year. In 1961, Roper and YC were the next to climb the Lost Arrow Chimney route from the bottom. There was much trepidation among them not knowing what they would find. Roper was on lead when he came on the desiccated remains, and to break the tension, yelled down to Chouinard, "Goddamn it! His parka doesn't fit me!" Thanks, dawg, for posting this one up and starting it.

Hey! Any monkey knows a 9/16" wrench fits a standard 3/8" nut. Uh, what's the whole point of this thread? Sheesh, you guys need to broaden your horizons.

Amazing. I was just working there, on the same block on 6th Ave So, for a client Monday and Tuesday. Looks like this happened Wednesday. Hope none of the many employees I know there were any of this guy's victims.

YEAH! Palouse Falls in spring: I'd been waiting to see this video: been working too hard and didn't know it had hit the intertubez yet. Thanks for posting John. Lots of folks including me at first couldn't believe this 186-foot drop, and certain reporters, including the local ones, initially held off reporting it without photos or video. Hope Tyler Bradt is making something from it. This drop is so far beyond what was previously done, it's into outer space with the astronauts on the Space Shuttle. Previous record was 127 feet done just the month prior, by Pedro Olivia in Brazil--that was a huge deal at the time because Olivia had just "shattered" Bradt's previous record drop of 107 feet done in 2007. I remember when Seattle kayaker Tao Berman about 10 years ago dropped off Johnston Falls (of Johnston Canyon ice climbing fame), at 98 feet, and that was a big deal then. Sign at Palouse Falls says it's 198 feet, so it's somewhat possible Bradt's drop could be longer than the 186 feet they measured by dropping a rope, then "stepping it off" (according to Bradt) after they pulled it up. A few years ago I helped to clean off some used-to-be-prominent graffiti on the rocks to the left of the falls as you're looking at it from the tourist's main view: Palouse Falls (pronounced "pah-loose," not "pay-loose") is such an awesome drop I can't imagine even a second person attempting it to survive. Unlike Olivia, who rolled over 180 degrees and landed smack on his top deck, Bradt entered in nose-first with his torso as close as he could get it onto his front deck, like a diver. The force was so great he slammed his back against the back deck of his boat and had the wind knocked out of him for about 90 seconds, but he survived with relatively no injuries. I hope we don't see any more record descent attempts soon, for obvious reasons.

Might work? NOT. Please don't speculate to newbies if you're not sure. A fig-8 has significantly less friction than an in-line device. A fig-8 is designed more specifically for rappeling, which requires much less friction than catching a fall--especially that of someone on lead. While popular to belay with at one time (years ago after fig-8's were introduced), there have been accidents due to using fig-8's to belay lead climbers.

Yes, the 75-year-old Everett Ruess story is an amazing one, and he was only very recently really found and positively identified. Billcoe, while this is a good version of the whole story available online, the original story including the fascinating research and first-hand finding is climber-author Dave Roberts', and appears in the current issue of Adventure. Unfortunately, the real, first-hand account does not appear in its entirity online, and is only readable presently in the printed mag. But Roberts' story is still worth it. Regardless, this thread is about the missing climber John Rosholt. Four years later, still no word on him that I can find .

Re. Chris Olson, I must have been typing too fast ( a.k.a. not comprehending). Thanks for looking, Mike.

Gator, thanks for passing along. Many of us thought it amazing at the time that Dave Hahn and Chuck Young, after their helo crash survival, kept after it and continued with their rescue of the stricken climber. Glad to see their recognition for it. I know the Interior Dept distributes a printed publication each year listing their honor awards: I was given one in the recent past. I've looked online, but can't find--is there a site or source where us non-insider/non-gov't employee -types can access the annual Interior Dept honor award announcements?

Matt, some confusion here. If you re-read the last message of page one, you'll know what I'm talking about--Bug's quote marks didn't come out quite right. Sorry for coming on too strong: I was really more into the message than trying to be an asshole. Good luck with your ticks, all of 'em, including Bug. And Bug, I'm sure there's still a voice out there for that alter ego of yours. Cheers guys.

Ah, what bullshit. Just take your thumb and forefinger and pull the little effin' sucker straight off! And, no, you don't need olive oil, although if your folks, Bug, had used that instead of fire, you wouldn't be talking out of your... Do we have to have this discussion every year? 2007 2008 Sure, except for the head that is usually left inside without a little cutting. That is all I was saying. Peace. And we do have multiple discussions every year that are redundant on just about everything. Matt, I'm not afraid to identify and correct misinformation, which you seem to want to perpetuate. Just a few points: 1. The head (also called the capitulum) is NOT "usually left inside." The capitulum always comes out with the body with proper removal technique. As said before, I've removed from animals and people more than a thousand ticks in my life, and I've NEVER left the head nor any other tick parts when removing them. Typically, only part of the capitulum will be under the surface of the host's skin. The mouth parts, or chelicera, act as pincers. They're very strong and will continue to grip the skin on removal, often taking a very small amount of host's skin with it. The best removal technique is to grip the tick firmly as close to the head as possible and apply slow, gentle perpendicular traction (for more details, read the previous years' discussions). 2. If one has to regularly "cut," then you're obviously doing something wrong. Best removal method BY FAR is to use thumb and forefinger. Works even better than tweezers, especially if the tick is engorged. 3. It's apparent you have limited experience and knowledge about this subject, and obvious you've not read the previous years' discussions: please read them. Ticks are indeed nasty creatures. In the U.S., they outrank even mosquitoes as a vector for human disease, many of which are very serious. It's unfortunate there's a high degree of paranoia involved with ticks, and people such as yourself are compelled to readily spread false info such as saying that oils, fire, cutting, and twisting the body out (all false) are needed to remove them. Regardless, your chances of contracting illness from a tick bite are rare, especially if it's removed quickly and correctly. Peace out. --Steve

Ah, what bullshit. Just take your thumb and forefinger and pull the little effin' sucker straight off! And, no, you don't need olive oil, although if your folks, Bug, had used that instead of fire, you wouldn't be talking out of your... Do we have to have this discussion every year? 2007 2008

Wow. Good work Lucky and good conversation so far, but let's call a spade a spade. Whatever the solution, it'll cost big $, by most climber's standards. Of course harder to do in current times but still very possible. WA Dept of F&W didn't have the funds in previous flush times to manage or maintain the area, and I'm not sure they had the care or concern. They obviously don't have the capability now. For what? I believe the issue to be two things. First, the right shitter, as Canadug mentions. It has to be a bombproof-type concrete, USFS-spec type. They're made here in Spokane by CXT. Their cheapest single-hole (appropriate for Frenchman Coulee area) goes for about $10K just for the shitter. Other costs will be transport from Spokane (negligible in the scheme of things), installation (significant in the rocky substrate of the Frenchman Coulee area, could rival the cost of the shitter), and on-going service and maintenance, which is even more significant. The bigger issue is who would be responsible for not just the shitter and it's maintenance, but the overall management of the area including camping. I think WDFW fails. I believe they were overwhelmed not so much by the climbers, but by the summertime concert-goers who I believe to be responsible for the needles and trashing there. Lots of policing is necessary to transcend that bullshit, part of where WDFW fails. Smith Rocks State Park is certainly a model, but would WA State Parks be capable? So what's the answer? Is a land swap from WDFW to another entity in order? Perhaps some sort of maintenance/utility district? As far as the needles and bullshit from the concert-goers, there should be some responsibility from the The Gorge Ampitheatre, which is managed by LiveNation. Perhaps even DMB would kick in. As Matt mentions, there are several outdoors organizations who could be willing to pitch in. I don't believe the FCCC is functional, so it would have to fall to another group. It'll have to come from those who care about the place, who are us climbers. Honestly, I personally don't climb there any more and haven't since it became popular back in the 90s; I seek out more solitude for my central Washington desert climbing. But I'd be willing to help improve Vantage-area climbing from the Spokane side of things.

Dreams of .44's... [video:youtube]