pindude

Thanks for mentioning, Daryl. Most people in my region don't know how good we have it. Especially compared to you poor folks in the Puget Sound area, we I-90 far east-siders have an abundance of crags in and just outside of town. Minne is maligned by Spokane locals in greatest part because of its proximity to humanity and the result: graffiti, garbage (both of these get cleaned up), gunshots from the nearby LEO shooting range, and partiers, gumbies, and occasional thieves. Regardless, it's TR heaven. The Main Cliff, the largest and most popular, is 80' at its highest. There's several other TR-able shorter faces, and lots of bouldering. Across the river to the south, and on very different granite, are the harder climbs of Dishman Hills. Downriver, there's more granite at Tum Tum, and across from Tum Tum, the more recently developed (and developing) McLellan Rocks. On the northwest side of Spokane is the sport-climbing area of Deep Creek. Many routes are TR-able, although this area is known as sport paradise. It's the only crag I'm listing here that isn't granite: rock is pillow basalt. Upriver and outside the state, just a little further east on I-90, are all the TR-able rocks at Post Falls' Q'emiln (pronounced Ka-mee-lin) Park. This area has become more popular due to all the sport climbs that've been developed here in the past several years. All the above have easy approaches to the tops in order to set up TR anchors, and are fairly easily accessible for weeknight after-work seshes. Almost all the TR-able climbs can be led as well, by trad or sport. We obviously need a new guidebook here on the east side.

"SO I HAVE THIS CLIMBING GEAR AND I HAVE NO USE FOR IT ANYMORE SINCE I HAVE RECENTLY BEEN DIAGNOSED WITH ADVANCED TERMINAL CANCER.IF INTERESTED GIVE ME A CALL..." Advanced terminal cancer? Yeah, right.

Welcome to the club, Paul. I joined it just a couple of months ago. Hope you're learning what I am: keep those legs, shoulders and biceps strong, protect that back, and keep moving. At least if we still have it, we know how to use it--age and guile beats youth and naivete any day. Cheers!

They didn't have the cameras rolling for the first helo crash, so they had to crash a second one...cameras obviously caught that one. From the Everett Herald, Aug. 24 : 'High Ice': It may be cheesy, but 1980 TV movie belongs to Darrington North Cascades town celebrates 30th anniversary of filming By Gale Fiege Herald Writer DARRINGTON — “Below freezing and beyond fear,” the movie trailer begins. “North America's last great wilderness. Whitehorse Mountain, the ultimate challenge for every climber who dares. “A towering adventure filmed on a killer mountain,” the narrator continues. “A reflection of true events and real people. Eleven men and women were killed or injured on these mountains during the months it took to make this film.” “High Ice” was an NBC-TV movie of the week in February 1980 viewed by an estimated 25 million people. Later it circulated in theaters internationally with the addition of nude love scenes that had been edited out of the made-for-TV version. During the filming in the summer of 1979, “High Ice” gave the small town of Darrington its most enduring brush with Hollywood. Thirty years later, the community will celebrate with a special event Saturday that includes two showings of the movie. The “High Ice” story involves a forest ranger played by actor David Janssen who clashes with an Army officer played by Tony Musante over how to handle a search-and-rescue operation to save three hysterical rock climbers stranded after an avalanche pins them on a ledge high up on a mountain in the Cascade Range. In reality, 6,852-foot Whitehorse is popular with climbers and on the most-traveled route requires little more than routine mountaineering skills and equipment. For Janssen, perhaps best known for his role as Dr. Richard Kimble in the TV series “The Fugitive,” it was his final movie. He died at age 48 about the time “High Ice” was broadcast. Having been born in a small Nebraska town, Janssen bonded well with the people of Darrington. He graciously posed for photos, gave lots of hugs to the ladies and signed many autographs. He even took time to pose for a drawing by Pete Selvig, who still lives in Darrington and served as the film's technical adviser from the U.S. Forest Service. The glaciers on Whitehorse and White Chuck mountains, where most of the outdoor action scenes were filmed, have retreated some. Selvig's memory of that summer, though, is fresh. Selvig, who was 36 that summer, made sure everyone worked in compliance with wilderness regulations, frequently had fire crews standing by and got the movie company to clean up the mess on Whitehorse when crews were done blowing up helicopters on the side of the peak. Despite what the trailer claims, “Nobody died and everyone had a lot of fun. With the current federal regulations, you couldn't do today what they did back then,” Selvig said. “The community really opened itself up to the cast and crew, who were very congenial. Whatever they wanted, we tried to get it for them.” Darrington's community center doubled as the Whitehorse Mountain Lodge, and the gym inside became a sound stage for some of the movie's close-up shots. Townspeople often watched quietly from the bleachers. According to an Aug. 20, 1979, article in Time magazine, the film cost about $2 million to make. Much of that was spent for the use of Army helicopters and the two Vietnam-era Huey helicopter bodies that were blown up. During the first explosion, the cameras weren't rolling, Selvig said, but they got it right the second time. “Sometimes we would go down to the movie theater in Arlington to watch the dailies, the film from that day,” he said. “It was interesting how they pulled it all together.” Former child movie actor Zack Lewis played Janssen's grandson in the movie. Now a Web designer and marketing expert, Lewis lives in Everett. He was 5 years old when chosen to play the role at an audition in Seattle. “I'm not nearly as cute or precocious as I was then,” Lewis said. “I remember picking my nose and eating it on camera. Watch close. It's in the movie.” The “High Ice” writer-producer-director team of Eugene and Natalie Jones recently wrote to historical society president and event organizer Leah Tyson to send their regrets about being unable to attend. Now in their mid-80s, the Joneses told Tyson they have good memories of Darrington. Kristi Reece, 20 that summer, worked for the Forest Service and still does. She was asked to be a stunt double for one of the actresses in a scene where the character dives into the river. “Clay Bank is a swimming hole well known to the locals,” Reece said. “They got me in costume, did my hair and makeup and I made the dive. That was it. One take. It was exciting, and made me feel like a real movie star.” Vivian Tollenaar was 51 in 1979 and known as the best school cook ever, famous for her chili and cinnamon rolls. She was hired to provide lunch for cast and crew. The required menu included veggies and gazpacho. No sweets. One day her friend Julia Bowman Haga brought over a special yellow cake, complete with cream cheese, Cool Whip, vanilla pudding and bananas. “It was like flies to honey,” Tollenaar said. “It was gone in a few minutes.” Joyce Jones, now Darrington's mayor, was out of town during much of the filming that summer. “When I returned, I went to pick up my mail. On the way home, I realized I was behind David Janssen walking down the street,” Jones said with a laugh. “You have not lived until you have seen David Janssen in a pair of tight jeans.” Neighbor Janet Cabe had a walk-on part in the movie. The Cabe house, directly across the street from the community center, became a popular hangout for townspeople and crew members. The film's special effects manager Teddy Mossman ate with the Cabes almost daily and frequently bought big steaks to keep the Cabes' black Labrador quiet during filming. “One friend said to me, ‘I'd like to be your dog.' The movie folks were all such nice people,” Cabe said. Now a grandmother, Lena West Wright in 1979 was a 23-year-old mother of a toddler when the directors asked if she would don a wig to play the part of a Forest Service secretary. “I was at the gym watching. The Forest Service girl who had the part had to go out on a fire. They offered me $20 a day to step in, so I said sure,” Wright remembers. “It was great, a lot of fun. I think I worked about five days during a two-week period.” When she gets off work at Darrington Hardware on Saturday, Wright and her family plan to join the crowd at the grange to watch the evening showing of the movie. “I only watched it a couple times when I was younger. I always thought I'd get a copy, but I never did,” she said. “I'm excited to see it again and look at the memorabilia. The filming of ‘High Ice' was wonderful time for Darrington.”

Thanks for posting, Iluka.

http://www.wenatcheeworld.com/news/2009/oct/10/climber-rescued-aid-car-hit/ Climber rescued, aid car hit By Rochelle Feil Adamowsky World staff writer Saturday, October 10, 2009 LEAVENWORTH — A climber on the Snow Creek Wall fell about 20 feet Friday evening and suffered broken ribs, cuts and a possible concussion, according to Lt. Maria Agnew of the Chelan County Sheriff’s Office. In addition to officials from the Sheriff’s Office, four Chelan County Mountain Rescue volunteers were on site to rescue the man, Brian Douglas, 47, hometown unknown. “It was a technical rescue that required ropes,” said Agnew. The Sheriff’s office received the initial call at about 5:30 p.m. Friday from a cell phone from someone who was with Douglas, Agnew said. Douglas was transported to Central Washington Hospital at about 7 a.m. Saturday morning. He was in stable condition as of Saturday morning, according to a hospital spokesman. A Leavenworth Fire Department vehicle responding to the call was hit by a motorcyclist at 5:45 p.m. on Icicle Road about one mile past the Sleeping Lady Mountain Retreat, Agnew said. The Leavenworth motorcyclist was transported to Central Washington Hospital with non life-threatening injuries.

IIRC, there's no real gear to pull on for the 5.11 friction on the first two pitches, but at least it's protectable, and at times there are fixed ropes for the first two pitches--folks at supertopos will likely have more and current beta. For the 5.11 crack pitches above, yes, that can be french-freed. My experience with ratings in Yose is that 5.11 friction is much easier than 5.11 crack moves, with this climb no exception. YMMV.

Otto and Max were descending Colchuck Glacier in late September.

Excellent TR as usual Steph: I really enjoy your sharing of your adventures. Of course this one has special relevance with the recent Craig Luebben tragedy that you referred to on your website. Hope to see you out on the rock or in the mountains sometime myself.

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvFSgXpyhoM

wow, your ominscent genius sees through all whoa, i seem to have struck a nerve. a little uptight? hope you're not like this all the time may be you need a little of something or other, other than cats. baa perhaps? BTW, it's spelled omniscient.

That type of farming never keep me from my rambles either, and it certainly was someting to look forward to when on the way back home. Oh, gawd, I guess I'm sounding like an old guy speaking in the past tense. I really do still look forward to that type of farming.

Bammm! Nailed it! LOL!!!!! this is why i've so far succesfully resisted the 3-fold cry for dogs (n' chickens) in my house (we already booted the cats for shitting everywhere) Quite often chicken and dogs DON'T go together. Case in point: My upwind next-door-neighbor was given 6 hens + 1 rooster as "heritage chickens." I come home to find him putting the finishing touches on a new chicken house just adjacent to my property. I disappear back in my house and find the paperwork to confirm our covenants forbid "poultry" as well as several other types of farm livestock, walk back outside, and see his 4 dogs have already invaded the chicken enclosure. Problem solved. And, Ivan, your cats wouldn't have shit everywhere if you'd have provided clean kitty litter for them. While puppies/dogs, chickens, sheep, horses, etc. require daily attention and care, it won't stop you from getting out and climbing if you've got a significant or another type of other to care for them while you're out on your rambles. Never stopped me when I was younger and "living on the farm."

Definitely. Not only tastes better, but also freezes that stainless container. Thanks for the info. I bring along dry gatorade or other energy drink mix not just for the energy boost but to mask the flavors of the water, both for stainless and plastic bottles.

This one way to freeze the bottle, and will improve the taste: * fill most of way with ice (glacial ice works) * add generous amount of good gin and a touch of vermouth * with lid on, shake hard for 5-10 seconds * while holding bottle so ice stays in, pour liquid into your favorite glass or cup The bottle will have a layer of ice on the outside and the liquid will be frothy. Taste is not only improved, but attitude as well. I just did the above, but remembered too late I have a med appt tomorrow morning with a prereq I can't drink alcohol 24 hrs prior--no one to share with so almost all went to waste...

If you really think we actually think this is good TV, you're the one smoking the weasel dust, bro.

That was too good. Never knew about FZ's acting abilities outside of the stage. Easily topping the most excellent writing of this show and great work of Don Johnson and Philip Michael whatzisname was FZ himself! Weasel dust sure sounds like an FZ concoction... On that note, it was just announced here in Spokaloo that ZPZ will be playing in our local intimate, historical theatre--The Met--on Nov. 29.

I feel your pain, Him. Keep checking craigslist, and the area pawnshops at appropriate times. If the thief is pawning, they may well try and pawn at a shop they think is far enough removed that a Portlander wouldn't notice. So have your friends--including here--be on the lookout at other towns like Eugene, Salem, Medford, Vancouver, even Tri-Cities and Seattle. My latest personal experience had the thief steal my stuffed crag pack here in Spokane, then he pawned everything in Boise. If I'd discovered my shit before the five years it took, I may well have caught the little bastard. I'm sure you've filed a police report for at least insurance purposes. Good luck.

Up front disclaimer: I used to work at Mtn Gear (but it was long ago--20 years ago), and know virtually each of their past and present salespeople, at least those at the retail store. I also try to spread my little wealth around, including at Mtn Goat, the local REI, and independently owned shops in the locales I visit. Like any workplace, any individual store will have stronger and weaker salespeople. Get to know your store, and the individuals that are knowledgeable and provide good service and info for what you're interested in. In fact, you should be able to determine this immediately: don't be afraid to ask for another salesperson if necessary. Be assertive dammit, but tactful as well. While I occasionally encounter rude people in my own line of work (I'll save those stories), I've never had a rude experience at Mtn Gear from one of their sales folks, nor have I met any "crap sales people" there either. I'm generally one of the first people to respond to rudeness by others: if you ever do perceive a person as rude, don't be afraid to tell them immediately and directly. Or if it's appropriate, go straight to their boss. Mtn Gear Retail Store Manager John Schwartz, other than being a great guy, is one of the fairest, no-nonsense people you'll ever meet. John knows the value of excellent customer service. If one of his salesfolks is indeed rude, he'd be the first person to take appropriate action.

Indeed. I'm told by my wife, who is a nurse, that by law pharmacies cannot take back drugs. She mentions that those headed out on medical missions--through churches or professional organizations--will receive drugs originally prescribed for others. Another possibility may be a local clinic such as one of the many neighborhood clinics in Seattle (some of which cater to the low-income and homeless), but am not sure--perhaps someone else more knowledgeable about health care management, especially around Seattle, knows more.

It's been 5 years, and I didn't know it was in Boise's Broadway Pawn until last month. I don't expect to get any more of my gear back than the small fraction I did, but I'd love to bust the little fucker who stole it. Here's hoping you can get your gear back as consolation for everything you're going through. Thanks, sobo. Especially now that his car got jacked and stripped, I hope Bala's luck is much better than mine as far as getting back his gear.

So sorry to hear Brian. How tough, I can't even imagine. My condolences to you and your kids and family. --Steve Reynolds

That really sucks Bala. My wife is 3rd generation Prosser: Generally it's a good town and is one of the best in the Lower Yakima Valley, but the whole valley is now inundated with gangs. I had a pack stolen (just a pack, no car) in Spokane with all my main crag gear and more--it ended up in a Boise pawn shop. I'd wager your gear will end up in a pawn shop as well. If they're really stupid, it could be one nearby or in Yakima, but more likely it could be a larger town further away (as was my case) like Seattle or Portland. I'm grateful Bug recently saw some gear being sold in Seattle on craigslist. Even though it had been fenced to a Boise pawnshop 5 years earlier, I immediately recognized it as mine. Presently, I'm still waiting on the wheels of the Boise Police Dep't to keep on rolling--they're in contact with the Boise pawn shop owner (Broadway Pawn on Boise's Broadway St.), who's presently stalling with info on who the seller to him was. I wouldn't have gotten anywhere with the Boise Police without my original crime report and # when I filed my theft in Spokane 5 years ago. Good luck with everything, Bala. And I'll try to keep my eyes here in Spokane as open as Bug's are.

Excellent photos and TR, Tim. I love that last one too. But if this is how you tag summits, I have to see some more of your summit shots.