Gary_Yngve

totally agree. funny how when fairweather says the same thing, people get into a huge argument.

this op against farc was totally badass. puts the cia and mossad to shame. what cool stuff have they done lately? this op is gonna make a great book/movie.

was in winthrop this weekend... did sun mountain on sat in the blistering heat. magpie, lower/upper inside passage, meadowland, rader, patterson lake meadowland was scenic, but basically just a dirt road. nothing technical. rader was the most interesting technically.. reminded me of the trails in st. edwards park. patterson lake was fun, especially the exposure above the lake. i'm a total mtn-biking noob, so if i'm saying that their black-diamond trails are easy, they are. my first time using front suspension (i feel like it's cheating). i was the goober wearing baggy yellow shorts and old leather boots on flat pedals. on sunday we thought better of the 100+ weather and hit the ice cream and the lake (pearrygin state park). i have to give thumbs-up to twisp river pub, east-20 pizza, grubstake in winthrop, and local 98856 in twisp for good food. the pizza and the pub are probably the cheapest. 98856 is only open for breakfast/lunch.

I have had problems with old O-rings leaking on the whitegas fuel pumps in very cold temperatures (remember Challenger '86?). The MSR manual warns against this too. If I'm using my Dragonfly in sub-freezing temps, I keep the pump/fuel in my jacket before I'm ready to use it.

yeah, my understanding is, for the vast majority of the population, it takes at least 24 hours at moderate altitude before HAPE may onset. it makes sense to me... partial pressures/chemistry change, allowing fluid to seep into the alveoli over time. it sounds to me like the original poster has "track hack"

yeah, my understanding is, for the vast majority of the population, it takes at least 24 hours at moderate altitude before HAPE may onset. it makes sense to me... partial pressures/chemistry change, allowing fluid to seep into the alveoli over time. it sounds to me like the original poster has "track hack"

Sounds like your reference is wrong. (edit: though certainly HAPE and HACE could be co-occuring)

didn't some famous climber get some sort of tick paralysis from one that crawled up his arse? jim donini?

Looking forward to seeing you and hearing the inspirational/adventurous stories in person!

A few years ago I was blizzarded off of Daniel on the summer solstice. The previous year, I believe, we encountered snow on the 4th of July. I think Wayne Wallace bailed from a day into the Ptarmigan Traverse that weekend. Last year seemed unusual in that the weather around July 4th was exceptional, whereas many of the weekends after then were crappy.

also note the picture of the UW chimneys in the Buildering article

Let's assume that firewood burned has 0 moisture content and is 100% cellulose. (C_6 H_10 O_5) that would mean it's carbon content is about 44% of its weight (and we'll incorrectly assume 100% combustion). Gasoline seems to consist of hydrocarbons somewhere between C_nH_n and C_nH_2n, so somewhere between 86% and 92% carbon. A gallon of gas is about 3.8 L, and each L of gas has weighs about .74 kilos, so a gallon of gas weighs 2.8 kilos, of which about 2.6 kilos are carbon. 2.6 kilos of carbon works out to be about 5.8 kilos of wood. So yeah, the bonfires really are insignificant to driving. Particulates are a different matter...

dang, that's over 100lb of rope!

Assuming they were on terrain probably around 45 degrees, that 2000 feet of vertical raising was actually 3400 feet traveled. With 300-ft ropes, that would be 12 "pitches" of raises, maybe even more, depending on the minimum rope they wanted reserved for hauling!

Hillary's suspension but not concession of her campaign reminds me of the Black Knight in Holy Grail.

Gas siphoning. On that note, I do see an increase of crime at THs from meth addicts and the like siphoning fuel or cutting fuel lines on vehicles.

Fair enough, then. The 1st short pitch of Jap Gardens would be good too.

It is a bit of a hike, but Blake's suggestion of TGS is good. It wouldn't be unreasonable to do the first two pitches of D-H as well (just bring extra thin-handish pieces for D-H p2).

Do these two statements seem contradictory to you?

Korup's setup is a load attached to a rope attached to a picket. The force on the picket from the load is F. Since the picket stands still, there is an opposite but equal force on the picket resisting the movement. However, for a top piece with the rope running through with no friction/drag (a pulley), both the load and the belayer are exerting force F. Since the top piece stands still, the opposite force on the top piece is F+F = 2F. This is the pulley effect, which is modeled in the Petzl simulator.

I'd be wary of this one. The crux of it is about 6-8 feet above a large ledge, and with another 30-40 feet of rope out, unless you're basically aiding it, you're going to hit the ledge from rope stretch if you fall at the wrong time.

yeah, the petzl one is better. with no fall distance, just a shockload, it's saying 3kN w/ pulley effect, which would be 1.5kN tied straight in to the piece. with the stats that you gave, it's saying 5kN w/ pulley effect. so straight to the piece would be 2.5 kN. so it seems that you had roughly 500 lbs of force on it, and in all cases but the deadman, it blew. dunno how much less force you'd need for it to hold, but the point is that 500 lbs of force is very easy to generate.

although that form seems to be bogus because it says that falling a distance of 0 would generate 5kN of force for a 90kg climber (1100 lbs of force).

http://www.getbeta.com/fall_factor.asp says that 2.5m above the last piece w/ 30m rope out would generate 5.5kN for a 90kg climber. That's a lot of force! (1200 lbs of force!)

let's call 25 mph 10 m/s and say that g = 10 m/s^2. If an object were in freefall, that would mean it took a full second to reach 10 m/s, during which it traveled an elapsed distance of 5m. 30m of rope total before stretch and a 5m fall would be a fall factor of 0.167, which seems pretty damn small. Your extra mass (standard is to use 70kg) would up the fall factor to about 0.233. As for how much force a fall of a certain fall factor generates on a rope, that's a harder question. Certainly the rope provides an upper bound of 7-9 kN, and when you're hanging in space from a rope (fall factor 0), you're 0.9 kN. In either case, the top piece could have an x2 multiplier from the pulley effect (e.g. belayed from beneath), but not in this case because you're tied straight in.