Gary_Yngve

yeah, the petzl one is better. with no fall distance, just a shockload, it's saying 3kN w/ pulley effect, which would be 1.5kN tied straight in to the piece. with the stats that you gave, it's saying 5kN w/ pulley effect. so straight to the piece would be 2.5 kN. so it seems that you had roughly 500 lbs of force on it, and in all cases but the deadman, it blew. dunno how much less force you'd need for it to hold, but the point is that 500 lbs of force is very easy to generate.

although that form seems to be bogus because it says that falling a distance of 0 would generate 5kN of force for a 90kg climber (1100 lbs of force).

http://www.getbeta.com/fall_factor.asp says that 2.5m above the last piece w/ 30m rope out would generate 5.5kN for a 90kg climber. That's a lot of force! (1200 lbs of force!)

let's call 25 mph 10 m/s and say that g = 10 m/s^2. If an object were in freefall, that would mean it took a full second to reach 10 m/s, during which it traveled an elapsed distance of 5m. 30m of rope total before stretch and a 5m fall would be a fall factor of 0.167, which seems pretty damn small. Your extra mass (standard is to use 70kg) would up the fall factor to about 0.233. As for how much force a fall of a certain fall factor generates on a rope, that's a harder question. Certainly the rope provides an upper bound of 7-9 kN, and when you're hanging in space from a rope (fall factor 0), you're 0.9 kN. In either case, the top piece could have an x2 multiplier from the pulley effect (e.g. belayed from beneath), but not in this case because you're tied straight in.

you're talking about a shortish mellow route on the Mole or something harder? i did the SW face a few years ago, starting maybe 50 feet below a chockstone, traversing left on easy cracks to the top of a flake that you drop behind and down-chimney for like 15 feet, then a short 5.7 lieback before it backs off to low 5th

So if you're really concerned, you'll need to build the 2nd far enough away.

Why do you need to build such a burly anchor anyway? It's gonna take a long time, which might expose you to additional objective hazards. In soft snow, I like the hip belay from a sitting braced in a stomped out seat. Good for reducing forces too. Harder snow, carabiner-axe belay. But above all, the rule on steep snow is don't fall. For rescue purposes, we use multiple deadmanned pickets connected via a cordalette or multiple v-threads connected via a cordalette.

everyone makes minor mistakes when speaking. big f'ing deal. if he said "i have a relative who helped liberate a Nazi death camp at the end of WWII," he would have been perfectly correct.

FW, it's spray. chill out.

though it can take 3 hours to reach peak

at least when i'm noncommittal about the weather and stay home, I can always hope on a bike that moment and catch some sweet views within 15 minutes.. Lake WA Blvd, Magnolia Loop, etc.

You Skagit guys are putting Seattle to shame! Like the pic too.

Erden rocks! He's funny too! His semi-daily reports rowing across the ocean kept me motivated while I was finishing my thesis.

On weekends like this where there's not likely quality alpine time to be had, bicycling on one of the islands in the sound is pretty good.

Why was she a disappointment? I know she has a laid back style of communicating and all. Were you expecting her to do jumping jacks? Arch, where did you see Lynn Hill speak? I saw her up at B'ham about 3 or 4 years ago. I remember her speaking style wasn't very captivating... I wouldn't quite call it depressed, but definitely subdued. I didn't leave the show stoked the way I do after other shows I've been to. Again, that's nothing to knock on Lynn Hill's success and achievements... just disappointing that I didn't get the stoke I expected from the show.

she now has a crap arch?

Bummer about your foot! Get well soon!

It can also serve as a tease.

I'm spotting him! Me too! Me three, I just got certified in spotting!

I go by that rule too. Although if dinner leads straight into something else, then the dishes/pots can simply be put into the sink and quickly rinsed / filled w/ water so they don't dry up and be a pain to wash later.

I think I know how to do it. Step high onto a thin edge with right foot while sidepulling/underclinging with right hand around the corner and pulling on some crystals with your left hand. And I still can't do it. Maybe it's not because I suck, but rather because I don't have good edging shoes?

You mean incessantly changing the channel every five seconds until all 200 channels have passed, then starting over to see what they missed? I'd rather watch Oprah for two hours than put up with Attention Deficit Remote Disorder. The punchline is "men are hunters and women are gatherers" (from Seinfeld)

i want to second steve swenson. He balances climbing, a nonclimbing career, and family, and he is a class act.

bush thinking that we're winning in iraq? hillary thinking that she's winning the democratic nomination?

now Thin Fingers at Index has a bizarre rating. The boulder move at the start of 2nd pitch seems way harder than 11a, but the rest of the route has moves at most mid-10, but sustained. I haven't done Colchuck Balanced Rock, but I heard the long crack pitch is similar -- 11a but no individual moves harder than low/mid 10. I think I also heard people saying the 5.8 chimneys there were sandbagged.