russ

Here's a couple more photos taken on the trip by Matt Knapp. Let me know if this is too much info and I'll remove them. The climbers have just finished the lower pitch (doesn't look 50 degree & I don't remember it feeling that steep either), and on the gentler glacier between pitches. The dark ice on the far right is the gully that comes down from Camp Hazard Looking down from part way up the 2nd longer pitch. Regarding pro, I think my memory was faulty cause it looks like pickets could be drive based on some of the broken edges..

When we did those pitches last year about this time, I lead them using a standard ice axe and a Grivel 3rd tool. The rest of the group followed using only a standard ice axe. There were plenty of ice penitente (sp?) you could just grab as handholds. The first pitch was the easier of the two and didn't really need the 3rd tool- also don't remember placing any pro. The second pitch was longer and a little harder - I remember using the 3rd tool quite a bit. Again didn't place pro, mainly because a guide had left a rope with several fixed anchors. Everyone following was just clipping his fixed anchors to save time (bottleneck of the climb). Had they not been there I would have placed a couple of ice screws. It was way too firm a surface for pickets. Approaching the 2nd Icefall - 7/19/03 This year the icefall could be entirely different....

Four of us (Mark B., Teresa, Mark S. & I) climbed the Tahoma Glacier via the Pullallup Cleaver with entry onto the Tahoma at lower St. Andrews Rock over 7/9-7/12. Conditions are still much the same as Pandora reported; however, some of the bridges in the mid-10,000 range are getting pretty sketchy. We descended the same route. Mark S. anticipating the crossing, Mark B & Teresa coming up: The Tahoma at the entrance from lower St Andrews Rock (our tracks are visible - photo taken on the descent) Oh yah, conditions suck for skiing it now...

I haven't used the Evo version, but some of the changes are obvious improvements making it a little more technical oriented. The bend upper shaft will give improved ice climbing performance and spike will penetrate better than the pseudo spike of the Air Tech. However if you mostly use it as a general mountaineering axe, the more aggressive angle on the head will make it less efficient for self-arresting. So, as you said "for what". I like the Evo changes, and if I were buying again would choose that model...ymmv

Just trend skiers left and down, and you'll run into the Round the Mountain trail around 6K. May have to negotiate some cliff bands, but are plenty of passages through. Then go left back to the intersection.

A group of 5 (Al, Dina, Jim, Matt & I) went up on Saturday. Quite the social scene. Meet up with Pete & Becky, and Steve & Sam - who I knew of from tt.com. We hung out and started down the chutes at 2 pm., should have gone an hour earlier but it was still fun. Al dropping into the SW Chutes Pete cutting loose Becky getting psyched Jim dropping the knee

check your pm's

Judging from conditions a few weeks ago, I don't think there's any snow left in Cascadian - certainly not enough to carry skis for.

Bruk - glad to hear all four of you made it and I want to compliment you on the quality of your trip report. You put so much detail into it that I felt right with you, experiencing your anxieties and fears. I used those some boots on the Kautz last year (mid-July) and was really questioning my decision before hand. I put on multiple coats of water repellent & seam seal, then used gators that covered much of the material. I didn't experience any cold feet, but felt they were still somewhat marginal if the sh#* hit the fan. However, I probably will use them again within the next few weeks...

I'm definitely a light weight weenie. First with a beta light which I've sat out about a 4 hr rain storm and had a couple of drops come thru - seam sealed after that and I'm confident it will hold up well. If you don't pitch it tight and very close to the ground it can be pretty noisy in the wind. I'm learning a little each time I use it. Bought the Beta bug for my wife - haven't used it, but the weight is 1lb 15 oz on my scale (versus 1 lb 5 oz for the Beta Light). Just returned my Marmot Swallow (8 lbs 8 oz) to "Guess Where" for a full price refund and smacked the dollars down for a BD Lighthouse. Came in the mail today, seam seal tomorrow, try soon. I somewhat discount previous leaking comment experiences when they said they didn't seam seal - why do you think BD makes a point of sending the sealer & syringe??? Had I known I would get a Lighthouse, I wouldn't have bought the Beta Bug last year... Beta Light + Beta Bug = 3 lbs 4 Lighthouse = 3 lbs 3 oz Anyone want a good deal on a Beta Bug???

Finger is still in excellent conditions, although the bridge at the top of the finger getting onto the ridge line is melting out fast. Summited yesterday via the route and was able to ski/board all of it, except that 300' section. The finger itself was excellent - smooth with slight crust at the top, but the rest was butter...

Our prayers are with you; sorry for your loss. I hope it helps to share some of the details - most of us can easily place ourselves in your shoes, so understand the pain that you're going through. Best of luck.

Great TR - you must have earned some karma points somewhere that led to your finding the crampons so easily!

Just to clarify - the snow was continuous starting a few hundred feet below the south side of Ingalls Pass. Snow starts at the ridge on the north side. We did a ski/hike loop Sat. - over Longs Pass, skied what snow was left, hiked up to Ingalls Lake, skinned across the lake and traversed around the basin to the ridge. Saw a couple of people coming off the south face route - probably Jim and partner? Weather was starting to come in so didn't ski much in the basin...

The rope is at about the same level as the lower part of the first icefall pitch.

I just heard about the concrete ford from someone else, they also had difficulty with a low clearance vehicle. One person that may come has 4x4 pickup, so shouldn't have any trouble; otherwise it's my subaru....

Anyone been up the Cle Elum River Road this season. Is it melted out to the campground at 3,350'?

or go down to Bruneau Sand Dunes and play on the slopes, or go to the observatory....

jesus christ, is that your shit or what? if so, call up the posse... Not mine. Aghh, guys. did you notice that Greg_W said they were stolen on Saturday (5/22). The gear went on sale on 5/21....

Not that it takes too much away from your point, but it's like 1.8 miles from Blue Lake TH to faint trail up to Liberty.

Try this report: http://www.turns-all-year.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=tr0405;action=display;num=1084155205

Ya think? I guess if we don't sign the register, we were never there.

My 50 cm BP's weigh 1lb 14oz each.....

Since you said you're going to be skiing, don't go this early. You want to be skiing down when the snow is softened. If you do the CD (which I also recommend), skiing off the summit between 1 - 3 pm should give plenty of time for things to soften and time to get out.

This is really sad news to hear. Although I had lost touch with Larry, I climbed pretty regularly with him for a couple of seasons in the mid-80's. He hauled me up many routes that were over my head and in the process I learned at lot. We did a lot of climbing at Index and Squamish; as well as having a great time on NEB of Slesse.