russ

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: so, yes I was glad to have my axe, and would bring an axe if I were to do it again. However, I'd probably invest into one of those techy superlight ones they've got over at feathered friends, and aluminum strap-ons. With the combination of a shortish grivel airtech racer and stubai ultralight crampons, I don't even debate taking them along anymore. very little weight penalty.

I've done the Mteers creek approach twice and Ingalls T.H. once. If I go back again I'll go in from Stuart Lk and descend Cascadian over Longs Pass (but I doubt I'll do it again!) As I recall, for Mteers creek, you break off the trail just as it starts going up hill to Stuart lake. find a creek crossing, then look for very faint passage signs up the right side of Mteers creek. Cascadian is a long grueling descent, but non-technical. go all the way down the boulder field to the flat area before heading slightly right to the opening of coulior (another words, don't go right too soon). in the lower quarter of the couloir stay to the right and pick up a trail that take you closer to creek crossing for Longs pass. great route - have fun

Try listing them here: http://telemarktips.com/forums/Tele_Turn_Around/index.html

here's an opinion: http://telemarktips.com/forums/Ski_Reviews/posts/29.htmlinion

I've got fairly detailed description from a "one day" push round trip from the Teanaway trailhead. Let me if you want it and I'll try to paste it to PM. Although - if I do it again I'd go via Stuart Lk.

Tua = The Ultimate Answer

I posted a funky TR of the "Yak Chek" variation on http://www.bivouac.com that might give you some info. Fun route, I'll probably go back and do the other half sometime this summer.

quote: Originally posted by Norman Clyde: Ingalls Lake is still completely frozen over. 3-4 years ago when I climbed the s face in late July, the lake still completely frozen over.

We skied Silver Star as an overnight trip Sat/Sun last weekend. On Sunday we were up relatively early and starting skiing down from the col around 9 am - it was in perfect condition. A few minutes and 2500' later it was already getting to be heavy mush. Definitely timed it right. As we neared our tent (at 6000') several people passed by on their way in as a day trip - maybe one of them will post how conditions were later in the day after warming.

I think it's still there!

1. Flask of Bombay Saffire 2. Olives (only the good ones)

quote: Originally posted by projecthex: go back to seattle 206er! and stop reading this site! projecthex - got a problem bud?

quote: Originally posted by Jman: It's my understanding (correct me if I'm wrong) that the lower shaft is actually thinner than the upper. That way the rubber grip is flush (or level) to the upper shaft, unlike most axes. So if you cut it off, you'll end up with a rather silly looking axe and possible very difficult to hold/manage. You can follow the links on the Marmot site http://www.marmotgear.com/ to see a picture of the Air Tech - looks like the rubber is not flush to the upper shaft.

When you cut off the rubber on the Air Tech, is the shaft finished underneath the same as the upper part?

I've never heard much mention of it, but "The Zip" in the lower Smoke Bluff is an awesome 10b. If it was on one of the upper formations there would be a constant waiting line.

quote: Originally posted by JERRY SANCHEZ: sAY IF I DO THE RACE DO YOU THINK IT WOULD BE WISE TO LEARN HOW TO TAKE THE SKINS OFF AND ON WITHOUT TAKING YOUR BOOTS OUT OF THE BINDING? i CAN TAKE THE SKINS OUT BUT CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO PUT IT BACK ON. aNY SUGGESTIONS? If you can figure out how to take your skins off without taking your skis off, surely you can figure out how to turn off the cap lock button!

More votes for some routes, several already mentioned: N. Ridge Stuart - completeIngalls - South FaceSlesseYak Crack (& variations) Multipitch rock Davis-Holland - Lovin' ArmsGonzilla to Slow ChildrenCenterfoldOuterspace/Orbit/MJ diherdralCruel ShoesAngel CrestDreamerCareno Crag I agree with Mattp concerning Liberty Crack - overall I was surprised how poor the rock quality is - a must do, but not necessarily a must repeat.

Nice job Lowell. You're right that someone needs to record those early events before they're lost. Watching the film of the traverse over Baker really showed the spirit of the early ski mountineers. One question I had, before the "senor historian" took over the question session - Were S. Hall's underware Patagonia or Black Diamond?? and the guy must have spend a fortune on sun block.

quote: Originally posted by gearbot: Hello All,...For those of you who do not have the book (and after this tour I can not recommend buying the book),...... Have anyone else tried this route? Has anyone completed it (beside Mr. Volken)?..... Has anyone else tried other tours from this book? I am interested, if I should burn the book or give it a second chance,....G.B. gearbot - a guidebook is just that - a guide. You may have noticed conditions change in the mountains - one day a particular section is a piece of cake - another day it's a bitch. Try learning from it instead of blaming the author. Yes, I've used the guide and I think it's excellent. Why? because it gives me ideas I haven't thought of since I don't know the area as well as M.V. Btw, we skied one of the tours in the book this past weekend with the author of another Wa backcountry ski guide - he thought M.V's book was superb as well. Definitely don't burn it - I'm sure someone will take it off your hands for the right price.

quote: Originally posted by Bug: Another classic 5.9 is Solid Gold near Barker Canyon Dam. Or has that been mentioned already? It is a sport route but still very ascetic. Got to disagree with Solid Gold being a "sport route" - if you only do the first pitch I could see the argument, but IMHO you haven't done the route if you rap after the first pitch.

quote: Originally posted by Zenolith: re: re: axe. i have a 60 cm cassin dragonfly (got it for $50 from climb max in ptld) it is about the same weight as the air tech -maybe a tiny bit heavier. has a nice sliding ring leash and swings well enough due to the steel head. I hate the spike on the air tech. "Steel head"? I've got a cassin dragonfly, but mine is a very light aluminum head - do they make different models of the dragonfly? I find I rarely use it because I prefer the strength/weight of the chrome moly head on the Air Tech Racer. Anyone tried chopping glacier ice with the alum. dragonfly - is it up to the job?

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: I think someone mentioned Illusion Dweller. That climb is unbelievably overrated. Peter - do you mean overrated in difficulty or overrated in quality?

quote: Originally posted by miker:Has anyone done Figures on a Landscape? It's out on North Astro Dome near Solid Gold, 10c-d, 3 pitches. miker[/QB] Great route - I started to write some beta, but realized that in the 20 years since I did the route, details have gotten a little fuzzy. Grab the lead on the 1st pitch if you want the best pitch. [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: russ ]

A couple of my favorites are Illusion Dweller (10a) and Run For Your Life (10a/b) in the Real Hidden Valley. Have fun, you'll have lots of great routes to choose from.

We've pretty much cleaned out the closet from when the kids were little, but I think we've still got a few of those bibs around. Ninja Turtles or Little Mermaid??