russ

Looking at climbing the Kautz Glacier this coming weekend - I'm becoming such a weight weenie that I'm consider doing it in Trango S'. Anyone used them on Rainier - are they warm enough?? (with crocadile type gaitors) Was planning on using S12 crampons, but the weight weenie fairy has me considering Stubai Ultralights. The alum. worked great on the Emmons a month ago, but I'd expect the Kautz to be much icier. Any thoughts?

it was still there a couple of week ago

That doesn't make you look like a climber, just a member of the Mountaineers.

What does Superman need crampons for?

I totally disagree with most of you. Ilona clearly established a relationship with Tom expressing her concern that the products would be delivered as promised with check-in calls. One thorough call to his manufacturers verifying the content of the order and status of delivery would have detected the omission error. Tom did an incomplete job - period. I would have asked how long it take to make a bag and try to get him to put it at the front of the queue to meet delivery. Actually, I'm surprised he didn't offer to do that on his own. However, I would only "voice" my displeasure on the internet after someone had asked for feedback on the company, then I would tell my experience. Have a good trip Ilona.

I don't know if they still do slings, but Northwest Repair did some for me several years ago. Northwest Repair 4250 Fremont Ave. North 206 545-8683

I might be interested in the BD Prophets - check your pm's.

Grizzled vet to young apprentice "our 5.9's are like Yosemite 10a's and 10b's". Yikes!!!

he must come and go - he was there on 6-5 & 6-6.

posted a few photos - enjoy http://home.attbi.com/~rschwartz45/wsb/html/view.cgi-photos.html-.html

Just got off the Emmons and conditions are ideal for skiing (Thurs & Fri). On the advice of the climbing ranger we started up much laters (5:15 am) than the climbers. The trick was to time it so the summit was softened but the lower parts not too mushy. We must have had beginners luck (Alberto and my first Rainier climb, Dave had done LR & DC). The top was wind sculptured but soft enough for careful turns. By 13,500 we started hitting sections of smooth corn snow which lasted all the way to Schurman (9,400). After a couple hours rest and packing we skied out via the Interglacier. It was still pretty nice for late in the day. Skiing well into the trees at the end of Glacier Basin allowed us to get from Schurman to the car in just over 2 hrs.

my plans seem to have fall thru - anyone looking for a partner? I'm free Friday - Tuesday...

A lot of people "cook" their own thermofit liners. Here's a link that has a short instuctional video. You can also search the site for much discussion on doing it yourself. It's helpful to have someone help, so they can hold the liner at the back top, while you lift and push down your heal several times to make sure any folds are removed. http://www.telemarktips.com/DrTelemark.html

I've used raichle thermoflex liners in my tele boots for 5 seasons and they've worn thru at one spot on the heal. So, I picked up an identical set that I had fit last month. Also, I just replaced my climbing boot liner with Intuition liners, and have Dynafit randonnee boots with their brand of thermofit liner. Besides being broke and rightly accused of being a gear junky by my wife, I've seen a differences in the liners themselves and at lot of difference in the fitting experience. The Intuition lines expand more than the other 2 brands, so did a better job of filling in around my narrow heal. You can look in and see the difference, much more "pushed out" on the Intuitions. With the Raichle lines I've needed "L" shaped shims around the ankle bones to keep the heal from lifting. However, even on the identical raichle liners with shims, my lifts too much on the new liners. I think the difference is how they were fit. With the first set the emphasis was on getting the heal in place, then letting them cool with toes elevated to get the heal formed as well as possible. In this latest fitting, the emphasis was on flexing the boot to get the liner to fill the bellows correctly; hence, even with the L shim my heal lifts too much. I've got a long trip coming up and have decided to go back to my old liners - after a thorough washing to get rid of the stank. One great thing is that my foot bed fits in all 3 boots, so I've saved so money there.

Pete - what is the total weight of your ski boots? Trying to make similar decision, but for a lesser peak.

mattp - did you do the same rock section on the way down?

Stock EVA liners - 9.5 used twice. trade for a six-pack of beer . Pick up in Seattle area.

I've used the Marmot Eiger as carry over for several years - nice light pack. However, Marmot keeps changing it a little - I tried one on last year that a section of the shoulder straps that continue behind you neck - I found this uncomfortable. Load it up in the store and give it a try, YMMV.

MM did V. Used the mountain masters to hike into the cirque of towers in the Wind River range carrying a 70 lbs pack and I thought they did quite well. Ditto other comments above absorbing odors - walked through a lot a sage brush that week and 6 months later they still smell like it.

I'd be willing to bet the assistant guide at SME last week that was buried under 10 feet of snow and was revived, was glad his companies didn't write him off because he "was statistically a goner". No one likes to spend extra cash or carry additional weight, but I think the safety/rescue gear you carry makes a statement in itself. For myself, I've always justified carrying a lexan shovel as being good enough. I've dismissed comments from others saying they won't cut through heavy avalanche debrie. But after reading the detailed accts of the SME accident and people saying they were next to useless, I went out yesterday and bought a metal one. BD Tele Lynx fit nicely in the shovel pocket of my pack. My regular partner was certainly pleased.

The glue used on ski skins works as well.

If you take out 3 pins, is that only a spare? But if there are only 3 pins, then you got them all, so it should be a strike - right. First time up to Tahquitz in So. Cal. ('78) and we didn't know there was a very nice trail to the right. Instead we headed straight up the boulder field. I touch a rock about 18" in diameter and it set off a chain reaction that had all three of us tumbling down to slope amongst all the bouncing rocks. After 30-40 ft, somehow we all washed out, as the rocks continued another couple hundred feet. Between the three of us we lost enough skin to feed one of those snafflehounds you'all yammer about for a week. Being the hardcore newbie's we were, we licked our wounds and still went up to have a great time on Sahara Terror.

pull, tug, reel, reel faster, use the net, use the net!

remloc, just be up front about what you know and what you don't know. An experienced climber can bring you up to speed on the basics pretty quickly.

Only an opinion on the Chili's - I'd go with one of the newer generation bindings that offer greater control - but that's just me (HH in the mail). [ 11-05-2002, 12:30 PM: Message edited by: russ ]