russ

Just curious, I bought 177's last spring cause they were the longest I could find on sale. At 185lb, 6' is was concerned they would be too short. Now I'm really glad I got them at that length - really responsive with adequate float. However, they won't be my deep power boards since I have others that are better suited for those conditions (much wider). How much do you weigh? What's your intended use?

Try here I'm leaving town for a few days, but PM me if you have any questions.

We climbed it last summer. Search for "Pandora's" TR from late June or early July. She had some good beta and I think I may have posted something from our trip within her thread. Let me know if you have specific questions.

Read here

well, since no else has commented I'll throw out my limited experience. I demo'd the original 185cm Shuksan and wasn't impressed - they felt like average GS style boards (though I have at least one buddy who loves them). K2 must have also felt they were wanting since they changed the dimensions from 107/75/98 to 114/78/105 (both have 2 layers of titanium alloy + wood). They should be quicker turning now due to more side cut. I ended getting BD Mira's (112/79/102), which I really like for my main winter boards. I see the NJ as a different niche ski than the Shuksan: NJ -lighter, quicker turning, torsional stiffness to handle ice, less float in deep snow; Shuksan - a little heavier, better float, probably more stable at speed - a nice all-round backcountry ski. Obviously limited value comments since I haven't skied the newer version of the Shuksan, but since my opinion didn't cost you anything, you can safely ignore it.

I've got a pair of Garmont Veloces with thermoflex liners and Booster strap. The liners are my second set and only have about 5-6 days on them with 1 molding. Put your own ensoles in and have them custom molded to your feet!

I skied the Volkl NJ's this last spring on several volcano trips. They handled ice and crud very well. Even though they're really light, they have enough torsional rigidity to handle tough condition. Anyone who comes across NJ's at GArt for $199 should snag them and run.

Just to throw out a different opinion, I prefer not to use brakes. A short keeper cord works fine and is lighter. However, if you come out of your bindings a lot (diplomatic way of saying "fall a lot" ) brakes are more convenient. Being an ol'timer who skied before brakes came out and fell a lot in the learning process - I rarely got bonked by a ski. Crampons are very helpful in the spring. in my experience when you need the grip, it's usually more important than being on your upper heal lifts. Skins - have both Ascension and G3 - they both work well, but I wouldn't go for the clipfix for a number of reasons. I like the g3 mechanism a little more than the STS, but both work well. ymmv

thanks for the advice. I'll have to keep my eyes on the market for a steal. If money's the issue, I'll sell you a pair of BD Black Prophet's for $125 (with good leashes).

If you scroll down on the linked page you'll see the large flashing message that says AVAILABLE EARLY SPRING 2005

How much do you weigh?

But WHAT are you pissed about? Doesn't seem that anyone really knows the answers to the questions above. How can you get on your high horse without knowing the facts? I think it is sad that you have to ask. It's the bolts stupid! They are right next to a crack. Is it? As AlpineK points out, no one in this thread knows the facts - MAYBE it's the bolts Alpinfox saw. Why not try to solicate information in an attempt to confirm what/where was done. Who knows what would come up if people started asking for info or contacts without pre- judging. When did the route go up? Where is it? Who put it up? Are there bolts? Are they next to natural pro? How were they put in? All legitimate questions by climbers with a right (used in the ethical, not legal sense) to know. How about writing to BD in a civil tone, solisiting info about climb put up in a sensitive area that we are concerned about? imho, uninformed rant is for amusement in SPRAY. I'll start it off : Does any know anyone who was in the area at the time and has real information or contacts who might?

But WHAT are you pissed about? Doesn't seem that anyone really knows the answers to the questions above. How can you get on your high horse without knowing the facts?

Just a one day over and back from Seattle. Any takers?

$280 is an excellent price. I searched all the on-line sites this spring and the best I could do was $320. Skied them quite a bit this spring/summer and am very impressed with performance.

I was interest since I lost my last pair;however, contradictory info on scratches: (from website) Manufacturer's Defects within the First Year of Purchase: If there is a defect in the materials or workmanship within the first year of purchase, Native Eyewear will return the $20 processing fee along with the repair or replacement of your Native sunglasses. Native Eyewear has the sole discretion to determine manufacturer's defects. Scratched lenses are NOT a manufacturer's defect. You must return your Native sunglasses to Native Eyewear, as described in section #1, and include the $20 processing fee and a dated proof of purchase.

As someone who uses ski poles part of the time, I concur. Buy those rubber tips they sell at REI so your poles don't leave all the little holes.

Depends on what you have in mind for your hiking and climbing... Trail hiking is some AT boots is not bad at all. However, if you doing much talus hopping I find them to be pretty awkward since you can't flex the ankle. For climbing, if you mean volcano snow climbing, they work just fine. But if rock climbing, it's the same with talus hopping, not being able to flex the ankle makes them pretty poor. I'm not much of an ice climber, but have done one route in AT boots and they worked just fine - but it was like A-II ice.

guess this is turning into the Obligatory pre-season Dynafit binding discussion... That guys experience is part of the "fiddly nature" of dynafits - almost everyone goes thru it. The main reason is when in the touring mode, people lever the toe piece up a couple of notches and think it's locked - it's not. You have to lever it up 4 - 5 clicks before it's fully locked out. A secondary reason is if snow builds up in the pocket below the ball of the foot, then the springed toe clamp can't engage completed. Everytime I've heard of someone having problems, it's been one of these 2 reason - usually the first.

My Dynafits have less play than my Freerides's & Silvretta's, and I find they ski better. Supposedly some German Climbing/Skiing mag did a review and marked Dynafit's the best AT bind for skiing performance. I wasn't comparing them to other AT bindings, since I haven't skied them at ski areas. More pointing out the difference in feel between the dynafits and alpine bindings. Actually, now that I think about it, I also can edge harder my Hammerhead tele bindings than on the dynafits.

I have dynafits on BD Mira's & Volkl NJ Mountains. The Mira's are for winter, while the Volkl's lite weight are perfect for spring/summer outings. As others have said, they're a little fiddly,but imho well worth the effort to learn their idiosyncrasies. If you're going to ski dynafits much at ski areas, the biggest negative I've found is getting the wider skis on edge. The play between binding & boot, combined with a softer AT boot makes hard edging more challenging. Also, I'm not a brake fan. Just adds weight in my opinion - however, I don't fall very much. They're probably a good idea if your skis come off a lot.

April 03 we ran into Mark & Kathy twice on the trains. Thanked them for the use of their website - seemed like nice folks. You should have a great experience with them.

Not a lot of pre-planning needed, but you might want to make reservations for your first few huts. It can get pretty crowded in April. I don't know how common it is, but the Chanrion Hut did turn some skiers away the night we stayed there. You may be familiar with the route etc., but I found the Cosley/Houston site to be a great resource.

I've used the Trango S twice on Rainier - both during July. The 1st time my feet were damp and cold, but as long as I was moving they were fine. The 2nd time I used goretex socks over liner & wool layers. My feet didn't get wet, however I was still cold if I stood around too long. Based on those experiences I probably won't use them for spring climbs.

Thanks for the heads up on Downey Creek. I'll do some research later, but can anyone tell me other options on finishing the traverse to avoid that area? TIA - Russ