russ

Bring a small stopper (#6?) if you want to ease the runout to the first bolt. Nah, that's to far to carry it.

Tua CR110, BD Mira - problem is Tua is in bankrupcy and BD changed the Mira so they're butt ugly now...

It's been a few years, but wouldn't it be mostly in the sun lite face on the right?

Took me a while to figure it out - Kyes Peak

okay, I've got a BD one to give away as well. pm me if interested.

IMHO the rating is based on leading it. You go from bomber crack to thin, hard to protect moves. TR just doesn't capture spirit of the climb.

Was there much snow left? I skied Shasta via Clear Creek in June - definitely thought I wouldn't want to be there without the snow. The clear sections we crossed were crap.

I'd bet the cops would actually turn on you for filing a false report.

Sometimes climb names can put you in awkward position. Years ago I was showing my Mom pictures of us climbing "X-rated Tits" is joshua tree. Sure enough she asked what climb is was. Ah, ah "x-rated" Mom.

Guess the bottom got upgraded to "a pitch". Couldn't remember it being 2 pitches, so I looked in my guides (most recent '93). In the oldest 2 the 10a part isn't listed, and in the '93 it's called "Thin Fingers approach'. Not arguing, just trying to restart the memory cells.

I don't understand, is there an extension of the old route, or a people just doing the hand crack?

Is there any other kind of descent worth mentioning? Congrats!

1. Skied Glacier, Rainier, Shasta and Baker 2. Not much climbing 3. Finally cleared all those blackberry bushes from my back yard

On the other hand, I've got Intuition liners in Scarpa Infernos - it brings their weight down considerably. Size 10/11 shell = 6 lb 6 oz (real weight, not the misleading crap in catalogs)

north face of vesper, corkscrew on sloan (if you're fast hikers)

Hey, my Husky climbed Avalache Glacier with us. Then descented the south spur. He had a harness and I tied him off on a twenty foot line. He caught on real quick that he could just put a little weight on the rope, then paw straight down the slope.

skykilo - only 2 of the pictures come up for me and the link to the second page doesn't work. Is it my pc settings or something with the site? Looked like an excellent adventure.

Someone with 1230 posts lecturers about saving bandwidth

I thought you might be joking, but I don't really think it's much of a stretch to ask for donations. Especially if your handling the money, then giving it out to the people actively replacing bolts. Doing it anonomously like Meingh.com probably won't be seeing much action - at least not from me, because it's not my home area and I don't know the people involved. Bryan did have a jar up for while in the Redmond Vertical World. I don't have any problem helping him out, because I think Bryan is good for the Seattle climbing community. Doesn't matter that many of his route are too hard for me.

Nothing wrong with doing it that way, but it's a little unusual. One of the cool things about doing things in a more 'standardized' mode is that you can climb with new partners and have minimal explain of how you do things. You just climb... It inspires confidence and a certain amount of trust. Having to think through your new partner's system could cause undo stress at a critical time. I understand wanting to reduce bulk and weight. I rarely put runners over my head for that reason, and use Neutrino's to save weight. Pro on the rack, runners 'tripled' and clipped to the harness. When seconding, I re-organize gear as I clean, so change overs are clean and efficient. You probably know all of this, so ignore my rambling.

Whether you get donations through a personal website is probably strongly related to how well known you are in the local climbing community, and how well you are identified with the climbing area in question. Back in the 80's I used to climb at Darrington pretty frequently. In the 90's it was limited to a couple of runs up Dreamer. But talk of new routes and a new guide have rekindled my interest in the area. Your website has become identified as the source for info on Darrington (along with cc.com), so it probably fullfils both of those criteria. But for most people to donate money for something like this, it has to be easy and convenient. Dropping bills in the jar at PMS is easy - setting down and writing out a check to someone from a website is probably more than most are willing to do. Afterall, climbers are notoriously lazy on most things, except climbing. I don't know what it takes to set up a PayPal account, but that could be one avenue of soliciting funds on the web. I think if you state clearly what the funds will be used for you stand a chance of local support. Also, if you might try getting a few statement of support from some of the local well known climbers. Anything to lend credibility could be helpful. btw, don't quit the day job just yet!

I threw a couple of chunks in that jar. Why - cause I like Darrington climbing and since it was in Jim's shop I assumed it was credible. I doubt I even thought about who was doing the bolting, but thanks.

nothing wrong with it, but also slightly more time consuming to rig and re-rack.... I'd still want 2 biners per runner, because you don't know if you're going to be using it with a cam or wire.

And probably 99% of the people who read your TR thought - cool to you. Then there are the few super climbers that need to critize from their couch. I for one, am very impressed with their expertise.

I used multiple coats of seam seal and nixwax fabric/leather treatment. Combined with a crocadile type gator they've stayed dry for several trips. Next time I treat them I'll try IIB's recommendation.